Homelite XL Chain Saw Oiling Problem
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Homelite XL Chain Saw Oiling Problem
Back in 2006 a member called “puey61” posted a reply to a question related to my problem. I tried to reply to him but it was too out of date. Here’s what he said:
On the XL model series units the oiler is actuated by way of crankcase pressure. You will have a fitting on the crankcase (in the vicinity of the carburetor) which in turn goes to the oil reservoir and pressurizes the tank. There is a small duckbill valve pressed into the tank that allows air pressure in but not out. This pressure feeds oil to the bar. There are two rubber lines involved to move the air from the engine and oil to the bar. This is a very lousy set-up and is notorious for failure. Areas to check are: duckbill valve, oil tank cap (if it leaks it won't seal and not pressurize the tank), supply and feed lines collapsed/plugged or in a worst case a leakage of the intake system whereas it can't possibly create the needed pressure due to crankcase leakage (seal(s), gasket(s), etc. related to the crankcase).
My problem is as follows: The "rubber" duckbill check valve is connected to a short black "rubber" tube from the exhaust by a small steel tube ("connector".) The duckbill stays on the steel tube but the steel tube with the valve is constantly being blown out of the black tubing. This results in the bar oil being drawn into the cylinder and burned. This has occurred on two different saws, making them completely unusable. Is there some tiny hose clamp or a different connector that can keep the check valve on the end of the hose from the exhaust? Thanks for any help. If not for this problem, they are Wonderful saws.
On the XL model series units the oiler is actuated by way of crankcase pressure. You will have a fitting on the crankcase (in the vicinity of the carburetor) which in turn goes to the oil reservoir and pressurizes the tank. There is a small duckbill valve pressed into the tank that allows air pressure in but not out. This pressure feeds oil to the bar. There are two rubber lines involved to move the air from the engine and oil to the bar. This is a very lousy set-up and is notorious for failure. Areas to check are: duckbill valve, oil tank cap (if it leaks it won't seal and not pressurize the tank), supply and feed lines collapsed/plugged or in a worst case a leakage of the intake system whereas it can't possibly create the needed pressure due to crankcase leakage (seal(s), gasket(s), etc. related to the crankcase).
My problem is as follows: The "rubber" duckbill check valve is connected to a short black "rubber" tube from the exhaust by a small steel tube ("connector".) The duckbill stays on the steel tube but the steel tube with the valve is constantly being blown out of the black tubing. This results in the bar oil being drawn into the cylinder and burned. This has occurred on two different saws, making them completely unusable. Is there some tiny hose clamp or a different connector that can keep the check valve on the end of the hose from the exhaust? Thanks for any help. If not for this problem, they are Wonderful saws.
#2
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I haven't seen those, but from your description I get the idea of the problem. What you can do is get a piece of tubing of thin metal - plumbing copper tube should work. Get a size that will fit on the tube you need the clamp on. Cut a short piece of the plumbing tubing and slide that over your other piece. Than assemble it and use a pair of electrical connector pliers to crimp the copper tube. That should hold anything that needs held.
Puey still posts on here occasionally, You might try sending him a PM for a response.
Puey still posts on here occasionally, You might try sending him a PM for a response.
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Very nice idea. Thanks much.
All this is a lot like neurosurgery, since you are working down in a hole with very small things that are slippery and round. It could be that it was worked on a good while ago and larger tubing was used which doesn't hold onto the connector as it should.
I don't know how to send a PM, but I'll try to figure it out. Thanks again.
All this is a lot like neurosurgery, since you are working down in a hole with very small things that are slippery and round. It could be that it was worked on a good while ago and larger tubing was used which doesn't hold onto the connector as it should.
I don't know how to send a PM, but I'll try to figure it out. Thanks again.