1997 MTD Lawn Tractor Ran Once After Replacing Float Bowl Assy

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  #1  
Old 06-30-14, 09:54 PM
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1997 MTD Lawn Tractor Ran Once After Replacing Float Bowl Assy

Hi all this is model number: 13AG675G033 serial:1L096C60045. Engine is Tecumseh OHV16-204216D(H) D.OM. 63265.

paid $100 for it. Was difficult to start and ran erratic. After reading as much as i could find here on the forum I used fresh gas, swapped a clogged (what I believe to be the original) air filter, fuel filter, swapped in a new plug (had wrong plug in it...too short of reach) and after some reading here decided to get a new float bowl assembly. This is the series 7 bowl with no adjustments. The float bowl did not come with the fuel cut off solenoid, so I left it out, isolating the to wires from the fuel solenoid and just used the existing bowl drain screw that came with the new float bowl assy. Let me add that the fuel shut off solenoid was bad.The coil read open on my ohmeter and even applying 12 vdc to the coil did nothing. My understanding is the pin in the solenoid should retract when voltage is applied. It did not so thats why I left it out and used the float bowl drain screw. After doing this work the mower ran GREAT...once.I was able to cut my 1 acre lawn with no problems. It ran smooth and even but was a little difficult to start. I have seen videos of these starters run much faster with the plug removed. I tried that and the starter did spin, but not very fast. Also I checked all major cables to battery and solenoid,starter,fuse and up to the side of the starter. They appear fine. I also went as far as removing battery to charge it as well as unplugging ignition switch to assure all terminals are clean and shiny. I started to look into adjusting the valve lash, but wonder how important a torque wrench would be to correctly torque the lock nuts after I get the .004 clearance once the engine is set at TDC. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated especially when it comes to your ideas on how fast the starter should spin with the plug removed.
Thanks in advance for your ideas. also what are your opinions on using the existing float bowl drain screw as opposed to just cutting off the pin on the fuel shutoff solenoid and install that (without the wires connected to it, of course.
Dave
 
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  #2  
Old 06-30-14, 10:13 PM
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You've done fine just using the drain screw. A torque wrench isn't necessary to torque the lock nuts, just snug them good. I think if your engine is turning slowly and removing the plug doesn't help, I would suspect a battery, battery cable connections, or starter.
 
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Old 07-01-14, 08:59 AM
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Thanks for the info, Cheese. I will try and isolate the problem and keep you posted. I appreciate your reply.
Dave
 
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Old 07-01-14, 07:30 PM
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I found a questionable positive battery cable, someone had spliced two lengths of cable together with a large wire nut! It also appears that the negative cable is a smaller diameter than the positive. Needless to say, I will be replacing both tomorrow.
While checking connections, I noticed that the large red cable going to the starter motor post will not tighten. The post spins independently and I can't tighten the connection. Is that an issue I should be concerned with?
Dave
 
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Old 07-01-14, 07:48 PM
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Yeah, I would try to take off the nut at the starter, tighten the other nut behind the connector to hold the post in place, then put the cable back on.
 
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Old 07-02-14, 05:54 PM
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Had battery load tested and was told it is good-I replaced both battery cables and cleaned and tightened all visible connections on solenoid as well as the cable on starter. The starter now cranks stronger than ever now, but will still not turn over. Double checked valve lash and it is still at .004. Put an eye dropper of gas in the spark plug bore. It puttered a bit but again, would not start. There is fresh fuel in float bowl.
Also, to add insult to injury, I wanted to move the mower into a shady spot to work on it and I am unable to budge it! It is in neutral but wheels are locked up. This is going from bad to worse!
Dave
 
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Old 07-02-14, 10:12 PM
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Those mowers are bad about the brake sticking. It's on the side of the transmission between the rear wheels. You can see how it activates when you hit the pedal. Reach under there and pull it back the other direction and it should roll (unless this is a hydro tranny, then the bypass valve needs to be pulled).

Still sounds like you have a carburetion issue.
 
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Old 07-03-14, 04:04 PM
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You were right on the money with the carb problem and locked brakes. Followed the rod from brake/clutch pedal to transaxle gave it a "yank" and brakes were free. Took off air cleaner and held the butterfly valve closed and she started just fine. I also found a torn breather tube from air cleaner to the engine, but I don't know if I tore it while I was removing the air cleaner housing or it was already torn. I'm thinking the choke cable just needs some adjustment. I don't think I was getting adequate choke. Hey, my mower is fixed!
Thanks for all your help and patience, Cheese!
I'm glad I came to this site!
Dave
 
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Old 07-03-14, 08:43 PM
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Great! Glad to help and thanks for the update.
 
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