Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Craftsman 42CC 18 inch bar model 358.351181 has problems!!!


Growingdimmer's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 10
NC

09-23-14, 05:27 PM   #1  
Craftsman 42CC 18 inch bar model 358.351181 has problems!!!

Auctioneer said, "I heard it running before the auction began" and I bought that half truth. My bad!!!!

When I bought the old piece of junk, it would crank on the 2nd or 3rd pull. (hold on, I'm nowhere near the end, here.) It would run with full choke for about 5 or 10 seconds and then stop. After a looking and cranking and looking and cranking, I noticed that the "bulb" wasn't filling with gas and was extremely difficult to push. So, I took the cover off that housed the "bulb". Well, I noticed that one of the fuel lines was kinked (Southern for has a kink in it.) Upon further studying, I realize the someone had pinched the line shut with the cover. Mighty proud of myself, for a little while, anyway. Then, it wouldn't crank at all!!?? Well, back to looking and cranking and pulling and cranking. Then I noticed a lot of oily gas coming out of the bottom of the thing. Upon further observation, I found that with the choke on, a lot of gas was coming out of the air vent hole on the carburetor!!??? and small amount, along with air bubbles were coming out of the vent hole of the gas cap. Also, no luck in cranking at all. It seems to be firing sometimes because it jerks back.

Could the gas cap be causing the problem as I have read that they sometimes cause cranking problems, etc. or any ideas of what the problem(s) may be???

Thanks to any and all helpful suggestions.

Growingdimmer

 
Sponsored Links
marbobj's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,659
IA

09-23-14, 05:57 PM   #2  
Don't know what you gave for it, but they're pretty good saws. Probably a Poulan with a different dress on, I believe. It sounds like the diaphragm in the carb is leaking.

Instead of working on specific problems you would be better off getting a full kit for the carburetor - they're about $12.00 and you can stick those in yourself. Then replace the fuel lines, the filter in the tank and the primer bulb.

You can do all that in one setting and you will have covered the fixes for all your problems. Hopefully those fixes will bear fruit - southern for hope they work.

If you go this route, draw the diagram for the primer bulb lines and lay out the gaskets for the carb as you take they out and match those exactly with gaskets from the kit. It'll save you a lot of headaches with the repair work.

 
Growingdimmer's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 10
NC

09-30-14, 12:49 PM   #3  
Many a thanks for your reply!!!

When I took off the carb, I noticed the intake gasket was all but "all to pieces."

Ordered a new gasket, fuel in-tank filter, primer bulb and installed them. Now, gas it not leaking out, but it will crank again. Now it will run with choke off but chokes when I accelerate it??

Along with the other things, I ordered a rebuild kit. When I took the carb apart earlier (B4 I ordered the parts, etc.), I found some bits of debris in it, so I cleaned and reassembled it. (also I looked at the diaphragm as it was not torn but did seem to have been somewhat stretched.)

I guess I just overhaul the carb with the new kit.

Wish me luck and thanks again!!!

GD

 
marbobj's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,659
IA

09-30-14, 03:18 PM   #4  
The choking down when you crack the throttle can either be a lack of fuel in the carb or an overly rich mixture on the high speed circuit.

Try turning the high speed screw out 1 1/2 turns from lightly seated. Then turn it in a little at a time until the engine accelerates quickly.

 
tech 10 years's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 7
GA

10-03-14, 06:25 AM   #5  
I would have to say..it is a brand that makes poulan..hint..craftsman is quite better..its not a generic..and I would also agree with marbobj about 50%..not cutting him down he's right about how to lay the carb pieces out in order..and also..if the diaphram had a whole in it, it would leak gas.. if it doesn't leak gas and if u bought the carb kit u may have spent a lil money for nothing.not to say it was a bad thing it wasn't..here is my lil tip because u didn't write back and say what he said worked yet so..psst..if its shooting gas back atcha from the carb..check the screen in the exhaust..that will make it seem to be choked..the diaphram not being ripped but maybe a bit stretched would not harm a thing..it is probably just breaking in..so..try the muffler if u haven't fixed it by doing everything else to it..let me know how it works out for you..good luck my friend..

 
tech 10 years's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 7
GA

10-03-14, 06:35 AM   #6  
Yes..a gas cap could cause a problem..if the cap has vents on top of it u can usually turn the center a lil..it may b opened to far and making the carb flood out..if your carb is not leaking while its just sitting there..not your problem..and..your primer bulb being hard to push.u have to take the carb off..clean really good..that would also identify that your diaphram is not busted cause it certantly won't b hard to prime..try that..good luck

 
Growingdimmer's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 10
NC

10-06-14, 12:24 PM   #7  
Marbobj & tech 10 years>

Thanks for your inputs.

I installed the new carb kit, but it still won't run correctly. It would run idle then but, would not accelerate properly. Tried and tried to adjust the hi & lo screws. Could not get it to run properly.

I had earlier read a post somewhere that stated that the magnet could be adjusted by placing a business card between the coil and the magnet. When I checked it back then, I thought it was too close, but my brother said it should be almost touching and that was not the problem so I did not do anything about it. Anyway, out of desperation after trying everything else to no avail, I adjusted it using a business card (which opened the gap some). Now, it seems to run idle and accelerate fine and cranks when hot. I have a moderate hearing loss so, it is difficult to really distinguish where to set the fine tuning of the hi/lo screws. I get it to run seemly great, but then later, it will not crank properly until I readjust the hi/lo screws to smooth it out again. I guess it's time to get someone who knows how to adjust it to do it for me. Again, many thanks for your suggestions!!!

GD

 
geogrubb's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,333
MO

10-06-14, 12:41 PM   #8  
You may have and air leak when cold, with it running spray/dribble some carb/brake parts cleaner behind the carb and along the mating surfaces, if the engine tempo changes you have a leak and can take the appropriate action. Have a good one. Geo

 
marbobj's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,659
IA

10-06-14, 01:47 PM   #9  
It can be difficult to get them set just right. Go to the two mixture screws on the side of the carburetor. Set both the H and L screw at 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.

Then set the throttle opening screw to get an idle. Then set the L mixture screw for good acceleration, then max rpms at idle. Then set the H screw for max rpms at full throttle.

Then go back to the L screw and reset it for max rpms, then turn it out just slightly - less than a 1/16 of a turn.

Then back to the H screw at full throttle - max rpms, then turn it out for a drop in rpms - about 1/16 to 1/18 of a turn. That will richen the mixture for lubrication and less engine heat.

Now go back to the throttle opening idle screw and set it for an idle that just barely turns the chain, then back it off until the chain stops.

Then - to the timber!!!!


Last edited by marbobj; 10-06-14 at 02:02 PM.
 
Search this Thread