Toro Wheel horse 8-25, need engine
#1
Toro Wheel horse 8-25, need engine
So the engine decided to throw a rod tonight. The mower is a little older, not sure of the actual year. Everything works fine, other than the engine now.
I'm wondering how to find a replacement engine.
It is a Toro Wheel Horse 8-25, model 70040, serial number 5902853
Engine is a Briggs and Stratton Power Built
Model 195707
Type 0121 01
Code 9502171A
Anyone have any ideas?
I am pretty bummed it broke...
Located in SE Michigan if anyone has anything, or connections.
I'm wondering how to find a replacement engine.
It is a Toro Wheel Horse 8-25, model 70040, serial number 5902853
Engine is a Briggs and Stratton Power Built
Model 195707
Type 0121 01
Code 9502171A
Anyone have any ideas?
I am pretty bummed it broke...

Located in SE Michigan if anyone has anything, or connections.
#3
Small engine warehouse has a section for replacing engines on older equipment, you might check what they have Home - Small Engine Warehouse . Have a good one. Geo
#4
The critical thing is having a standard bolt pattern, crankshaft length and diameter. You should be able to re-use your sheave or engine pulleys IF the crank shaft is the same length and diameter (and many, if not most, are).
I have a 1973 AMF/Dynamark/Noma/Murray Mower that originally had a Recoil 8 HP Briggs which blew a rod in 1987. I replaced it with a new Recoil 10 HP Tecumseh which served me well until 2013 when it blew a rod. Now I'm running an Electric Start 13 HP Briggs (reads Craftsman), all while using the same bolt pattern for engine mounts and the same pulleys and belts.
Nothing was complicated except my most recent introduction of a battery, wiring harness, ignition switch and solenoid . . . . but this mower now runs better than new.
I have a 1973 AMF/Dynamark/Noma/Murray Mower that originally had a Recoil 8 HP Briggs which blew a rod in 1987. I replaced it with a new Recoil 10 HP Tecumseh which served me well until 2013 when it blew a rod. Now I'm running an Electric Start 13 HP Briggs (reads Craftsman), all while using the same bolt pattern for engine mounts and the same pulleys and belts.
Nothing was complicated except my most recent introduction of a battery, wiring harness, ignition switch and solenoid . . . . but this mower now runs better than new.
#5
Ok, thanks for the info...So there is hope.
Overall I'd like to just get a replacement/rebuild and drop it in.
That would be best bet for me, if its possible.
I will call the above mentioned facility and see what they can offer.
We'll see what happens.
Overall I'd like to just get a replacement/rebuild and drop it in.
That would be best bet for me, if its possible.
I will call the above mentioned facility and see what they can offer.
We'll see what happens.
#6
New engine is $800...Too much....
I'm wondering if anyone knows how to differentiate between engines.
I did locate another one very close to ours,
The model on that one is 190707, mine is 195707.
So close, I am curious what the differences are if they will swap.
I'm wondering if anyone knows how to differentiate between engines.
I did locate another one very close to ours,
The model on that one is 190707, mine is 195707.
So close, I am curious what the differences are if they will swap.
#8
I called since the numbers I had didn't show anything.
They confirmed that the one I found on CL should work, its just older.
So we're going to check it out tomorrow night, if starts and runs ok, I'll snag it...
Hopefully so.
They confirmed that the one I found on CL should work, its just older.
So we're going to check it out tomorrow night, if starts and runs ok, I'll snag it...
Hopefully so.
#9
Member
How much damage did the rod do to the engine when it broke? I could not replace an old Kohler with replacement block but I found a company that could re-sleeve the original block back to original specifications. It has been running strong for a month now with new piston and rod etc. If you didn't destroy the old block, try Engine Rebuilders on Cherry Street in Toledo.