Husqvarna riding mower will not crank

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  #1  
Old 10-13-14, 12:20 PM
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Husqvarna riding mower will not crank

I have a Husqvarna YTH24K48 riding mower. The mower is less than two years old, and new to me. It started and ran fine for a few days, now there is nothing when I turn the key to start. The PTO switch if off, I am sitting in the seat, and the brake is fully depressed. First thing I did was check the battery, it has 12.6 volts on the multimeter. Next, I checked the fuse, it was blown. I replaced it, and turned the key to on (not start) and it blew the fuse. I searched for damaged wiring, and found that the wiring connector going to the headlights had come against the exhaust and melted partially. I thought that might be causing a short, so I cut those wires. The fuse is not blowing now, but the engine will not crank. I am pretty new on troubleshooting this type of problem. Any help on what to test next would be much appreciated. Thanks!!!
 
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  #2  
Old 10-14-14, 09:18 PM
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Check for power at the fuse first. Then check for power at the ignition switch. Post back with the results and we'll go to the next step, depending on your answer.
 
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Old 10-15-14, 05:51 AM
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I am pretty new at this, but eager to learn. Can you give me a quick bit of instruction on how to check for power at the fuse and ignition switch. I have a multimeter to test with. Thanks so much for the response!!
 
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Old 10-15-14, 10:06 AM
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Switch the meter to DC volts in a range that covers 12 volts. Put the black lead to the negative side of the battery and the red to the place where you want to check for power. Expect to see about 12.5 volts in places with power.
 
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Old 10-15-14, 05:23 PM
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OK, I have 12.46 volts of power at the fuse and at the ignition switch.
 
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Old 10-15-14, 08:29 PM
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Check for voltage at the white wire plugged on to the solenoid when trying to start with the brake locked down.
 
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Old 10-19-14, 06:18 PM
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I have 12.4 volts at the white wire going into the solenoid, when the key is turned to start. Side note ... The solenoid is new. I thought it was the problem and replaced it, before I got on this forum. What should I chaeck for next? Again, thanks a bunch for all the help and instruction so far.
 
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Old 10-19-14, 09:38 PM
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Make sure the black wire on the solenoid is grounded well (check to be sure there is 12 volts between the white and black wires). If so, short across the 2 big terminals of the solenoid with a screwdriver. If the engine cranks like this, the solenoid is bad.
 
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Old 10-20-14, 04:50 AM
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To test the ground on the solenoid, do I just put one lead of the multimeter on the white wire and the lead of the multimeter on the black wire and check for 12 volts?
 
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Old 10-20-14, 04:34 PM
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Yes, and test with the clutch pedal pressed and the key turned as if you're trying to start it.
 
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Old 10-21-14, 12:14 PM
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I have same issue on my yth22v42. I will follow this thread. If I could ask one question, my battery has 7.9 volts. I tried jumping with car for 10 minutes and got nothing. Not to be stupid but 7.9 volts is not 12 volts. It should at least crank or click with the battery. Correct as I do not want to buy a batttery ?
 
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Old 10-21-14, 07:10 PM
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No, 7.9 volts is a dead battery. It definitely won't crank at all like that. Might not even click.
 
  #13  
Old 10-22-14, 03:25 AM
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You could check the water in each of the cells and put it on a trickle charge. If it still won't crank, then it's gone.

If it cranks, and holds a charge, it's something else: like the ignition switch, solenoid, or the alternator (which failed to keep your battery charged).

Was that battery ever frozen ?
 
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Old 10-22-14, 04:52 AM
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Cheese, I pulled the small white and black wires from the solenoid. I put one lead of the multimeter on the white wire and the other lead of the multimeter on the black wire. I then sat in the seat, pressed the brake all the way and turned the key to start. No volts. What shall i look for next. Thanks a bunch for the help!!!
 
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Old 10-22-14, 09:51 AM
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But you do have 12 volts on the white wire when you check it with the red lead in the wire and the black at the negative post of the battery? If so, you have lost your ground. The black wire from the solenoid is connected to the frame of the mower. Check the bolt where the negative battery cable connects to the battery and to the frame to make sure it has a good connection.
 
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Old 10-22-14, 11:45 AM
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I bought a battery and it worked. To Vermont, I live in Mass and we had 1 night below 32 since the last time I used it. As you know this fall is a lot warmer than last year and I always mow in November to pick up leaves. The dead battery surprised me as it had some juice and I tried jumping with my car and got nothing. My old Toro had batttery under the hood and the husqvarna is under the seat which I could not jump with the car running.
This is a great thread as I mgiht get the same issue and I will save this thread. Good Luck Rooster
 
  #17  
Old 10-24-14, 09:37 AM
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Yes, I have 12 volts on the white wire when you check it with the red lead in the wire and the black at the negative post of the battery.

The black wire from the solenoid looks like it goes through all the wiring harness and ground to the same bold as the negative battery terminal. The ground connection looks fine. I tested continuity through the solenoid ground wire (black) to the ground bolt and continuity was fine (not sure if that tells me anything?) What else should I test?
 
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Old 10-24-14, 09:44 AM
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If you have continuity to the negative side of the battery through the black wire, then it's not possible to have 12 volts from the white wire to the battery negative but not to the black wire negative. I'd say something wasn't making good contact or something in one of the tests.
 
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Old 10-26-14, 04:51 AM
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I likely have done one (or more) of the tests incorrectly. I will go back through the thread and redo the tests you asked me to do. I will post exactly what I do for each test and the results. Please correct me where I go wrong. Thank you so much for you time, guidance and patience!!!
 
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Old 10-27-14, 05:05 PM
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Cheese,
I went back through and re-did all the tests (the ones you had me do, plus a couple I was curious about). Here are my steps and results. Could you please review and correct me if I did anything wrong?

1. Test for power at the fuse. I put the red lead of the multimeter on the red wire going into the fuse holder, and the black lead of the multimeter on the negative battery terminal. I got 12.46 volts.

2. Test for power at the ignition switch. I put the red lead of the multimeter on the red wire going into the ignition switch, and the black lead of the multimeter on the negative battery terminal. I got 12.46 volts.

3. Test for power at the white wire on the solenoid. I pulled the white wire off the solenoid. I put the red lead of the multimeter on the white wire going into the solenoid, and the black lead of the multimeter on the negative battery terminal. I sat on the seat, and pushed the brake all the way down. I got zero volts with the key in the off and on position. I got 12.4 volts when I turned the key to start.

4. Test for power between the black and white wires on the solenoid. I pulled both the black and white wires. I put the multimeter on DC volts, put the black lead in the black wire and the red lead in the white wire. I sat on the seat and pushed the clutch all the way down. With the key off, on, and start I had zero volts.

5. Check for continuity between the black wire on the solenoid and the negative battery terminal. With the red lead on the black solenoid wire and the black lead on the negative battery terminal I have continuity. I also had continuity to the positive battery terminal and to random bolts on the frame and engine??

6. I also found that if I put the red lead on the black solenoid wire and the black lead on the negative battery terminal, I got 12.5 volts as soon as I turned the key to on or start. Not sure it that means anything??

Did I do any of these tests wrong, or does this shed any more light on the issue?

Thanks a bunch for the help.
 
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