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My Craftsman Model 944.528413 Snow blower will not start


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10-25-14, 11:30 AM   #1  
My Craftsman Model 944.528413 Snow blower will not start

Hi everyone,

My Craftsman Model 944.528413 snow blower with 1350 Briggs and Stratton dual stage 27" motor, will not start. Upon trying to start, the engine makes no firing attempt (no sputtering or noise). Last winter it worked very well with no issue, but this year, after starting it once, it spontaneously quit and I haven't been able to start it since.

Here is what I have tried so far:

Refurbished the carburetor with a carburetor kit, including cleaning.
Replaced oil
Replaced spark plug
Changed the gas

The spark flug fires, but does the bendix of the electric starter prevent it from starting if it doesn't retract?

Would anyone have an idea what could be causing this problem? Any help would be much appreciated!

Thank you,

G

 
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10-25-14, 02:53 PM   #2  
You've got spark and compression rarely dies without an awful noise so I'd focus on fuel to start with. Put a small squirt of fuel in the throat of the carburetor or remove the spark plug and pour a teaspoon of fresh gas into the cylinder. Re-install the spark plug and try to start it. If it sputters, fires or runs for a second then you've narrowed it down to a carburetor problem in spite of your recent overhaul.

 
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10-25-14, 03:25 PM   #3  
Thanks a lot, I will try that out

 
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10-25-14, 05:11 PM   #4  
I've tried what you said however, the snow blower has no life at all.

 
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10-25-14, 05:23 PM   #5  
To answer your question about the bendix. No it wouldn't affect the starting by not retracting. That is actually "retracted" by the engine starting, then the flywheel spins the bendix drive backwards down the starter shaft. Some have a spring to help the retraction along, but a lot of them don't.

 
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10-25-14, 05:32 PM   #6  
As far as the starting itself, you can take the carb out of the equation by spooning a little gas down the plug hole. However, you have to stop all gas from coming in from the carburetor as well. Otherwise the double up of the gas will flood the engine.

So make sure you have shut off the fuel from the tank. Then with the spark plug in place and choke on full spin the engine over about five times. That will take the fuel out of the carburetor bowl.

Now with the plug removed and the choke "off" and the throttle on full open, spin the engine over another five times to purge the gas fumes from the engine.

Now spoon one spoon of gas down the plug hole and with full throttle and no choke try to start it. You may have to spin the engine over a number of times to get it to fire, especially if it has been flooded.

Once you get it to fire, turn the fuel back on and with full throttle/half choke try to start it.

 
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10-25-14, 10:00 PM   #7  
Thanks you for your reply but unfortunately I've tried all that you've mentioned but have had no luck. Do you think it could be the solenoid or power generator?

 
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10-26-14, 08:42 AM   #8  
No. The solenoid, as in electric starter, would not affect the pull starting of it, if you have spark at the plug.

A power generator, as in electric start battery charger, would not affect it, if you have a good spark.

If you have compression and the flywheel key is in place, and a good spark, you should be able to start it with the spoon of gas down the plug hole.

When you had it started this year, were you blowing snow or did you just start it, it ran a short time, then died? If it's the latter, we should be able to get it going.

 
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10-26-14, 09:30 AM   #9  
I simply started it to check its condition for the winter, it ran for 15 minutes, ( no snow) then it just stopped on its own and I haven't been able to restart it.

I've tried the spoon of gas down the plug hole, still no luck.

To get it to run should you have a big spark? Because the spark I get is like a pin head, very small.

Thank you so much for your reply

 
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10-26-14, 12:24 PM   #10  
Given that, I would start with the fuel. Given the run time you had it sounds more like the fuel feed to the carb bowl. I would take off the carburetor bowl and see if gas will run into it past the float valve. If there is nothing in the bowl, look first at the gas tank/lines/filter, etc. Pull off the gas line at the carb and see if you have a good fuel flow to the carb. If not work your way to the gas tank.

If there's fuel there at the carb inlet you have a blockage, probably at the fuel float valve in the carb. Just take off the float and drop the float valve down. There's likely something in it - either a varnish build up or some trash. IF you find dirt or trash, I would stick a fuel filter in the line before the carb.

Checking the spark is best done in a dark garage and you should get a bright blue spark. An orange spark is very weak and doesn't fire well inside the combustion chamber to run the engine. Also make sure the plug is well grounded to a cleaned off spot on the cylinder head, i.e.

 
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10-26-14, 09:22 PM   #11  
I've tried everything you have suggested and I realized that when you prime it, fuel comes out of the opposite end of the carburetor (instead of going into the engine it comes out of the filter) .

On the parts diagram of the carburator, there's a little spring on the float, however I don't see one on the actual part, could this be an issue?

 
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10-27-14, 05:28 AM   #12  
Yep, anything in the float that's not working can cause a problem because it lets the fuel overflow the bowl and that floods the engine.

With a spoon of fuel for a primer you really shouldn't have anything running out the carb, though.

The first thing we need to do is get all the fuel out of the engine. You may have a flooded condition and we need to clean that up first.

Is all the gas shut off from the tank to the carburetor and was there any gas in the carburetor bowl when you removed it?

 
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10-27-14, 06:10 AM   #13  
Generally there is not a spring on the float but there is often a little spring like wire that attaches the needle valve to the float. If your clip is broken or missing it's possible the needle is not moving up and down properly with the float. Some can stick in the seated/closed position and the wire clip helps pull it down when the float drops, allowing more fuel to enter the bowl.

Still, you should get some sputtering or running with the fuel poured into the cylinder trick. If you suspect it's not firing because it is flooded you can turn off the fuel shutoff or pinch the hose to stop the flow of fuel to the carburetor for testing.

Have you checked the oil level? Does the oil smell like gas? If it's high or over filled it can be caused by a flooding carburetor pouring gas into the cylinder that seeps by the rings and down into the crank, raising the oil level.

 
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10-27-14, 05:24 PM   #14  
Thanks for your input, I think I found the problem. The connecting rod came off the valve and the pusher.

I straightened it and then replaced it, and then it started.

But now it runs erratically and at low rpm even though it's set at high. How do I make it run smoothly?

 
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10-27-14, 05:39 PM   #15  
It also makes excessive smoke

 
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10-30-14, 06:21 PM   #16  
Does anyone have any idea why it may not be running smoothly? Could it be a problem with the carburator ? Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.

 
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