Hey Cheese hope you can help me decide on how and what to do on this Echo leaf blower..First of all it has those darn reed valves on it,Although I have repaired many weed eaters and blowers, not to familiar with the reed valve,
Anyway I overhauled this walbro carburetor as you know all new rubber and gaskets,and it still has no response,,Yet if I spray carb cleaner in the intake it runs ok..So initially I would think yep its the carb..but these valves have me second guessing because yes its drawing air but feels like its pushing a little out also on the intake..Is that normal?..and sometimes that turkey call sound will come out of there,But am I overthinking when it comes to the reed valves or is it down right the carburetor? Thanks for a reply!
B.

 

Reed valves usually don't give much trouble. If they look clean and intact and it runs with a shot of cleaner, then I'd still suspect the carb. Usually if reed valves are giving trouble in these, it's because they are cracked, rusted, or screws getting loose/falling out.

 

Ok Cheese thanks for the reply..Will go over this carb again..

 

Hey again cheese,I still am not getting anywhere with this thing,Ive even soaked parts of the carb in chem dip a couple days..still the same,,Fuel line is clear,new kit installed,with all that done and not working the next step for me is a new carb,at 89.00 there not cheap..and thats on E bay..I have taken the L H needles out before on others and sprayed and blew those out and have them take off running,This one looks pretty clean though,besides I dont have the micro, very small spline socket to fit these..I have also tried the needle valve popup adjust at different places and no help,,So just figured would ask if you had any more ideas on what I could try?..Thanks alot!
B.

 

Take a red electrical wire connector like a butt or spade connector and push the red plastic part over the splined screw, then turn the connector to remove the mixture screws. Can you choke it with your thumb and see any gas in the throat at all?

 

Welp nevermind cheese,Thanks for helping..I had ruled out the inline fuel filter in tank after blowing through it (with mouth) heard bubbles and figured that was good to go..But decided to do that once more and the darn thing started then died..So that was the break through on a clue,Anyway pulled that out cleaned with carb leaner real good,and high pressure air,even though this thing looked to be in good shape ,Ive seen them look a lot worse and run fine,, so will know from now on.Its running fine now no problems,Updating this also because I know other people can use this info..Thanks Cheese.Yea I know, these filters can be bought new..
B.

 

Cheese I have the splined tool set for ,well, most of these carbs..yea there not cheap..anyway I dont remember ever seeing any this small on a walbro carb, its a number WLA-1-1 like I was saying there micro screws..If you ever have one in hand you will know..Need to look for that tool for the future though. Anywayz thanks again for the replies!
B.

 

Well I used this leaf blower an hour yester day no problems..Today I started it,well when I tried starting it raw gas started to come out the muffler,so let it sit a few and took a few pulls then started,,Ran one minute and quit..Then hard to get iy going again so Im going to give up for a bit..may need to adjust the needle valve...rechecked the inline filter clear as a bell..Any thoughts on this matter?
Thanks!
B.

 

Yeah, with the gas coming out the muffler it sounds like the needle in the carb is holding open a little due to a mis-adjusted metering lever or trash in the needle/seat area.

 

Hey cheese,Guess I will burn this thing at the next barbeque..or buy a new carb..
Ive tried everthing I know to do on it..This carb has the dual intakes on it ,one up top going into the reed valves..anyway if I hold my thumb over the bottom port it will draw up gas and bareley try and start..but using its stock choke it does nothing,Or if I spray fluid in it it will start ,it was running ok but now wont stay running Ive tried the needle adjustment level with body and a little above, seems to do better above it but cant keep going higher it will leak..Only t hing I can figure is a passage not doing what its suppose to do..so will probably trash it.

 

Hey cheese one last thing here and Im done..I had this thing running today and noticed when it was full throttle it was spitting raw gas,but if I back it down it will stop this..but then when I go below half throttle now it will die and doesnt want to start..The way I got it started today was put my thumb over the intake venturi and it drew the gas in enough to start ,,Will adjusting that H OR L needle help much on this you think?..Although still cant find a tool for this like I said the needles are so tiny..Anyway thanks again for any help! I still considered the fuel line for when I back it down and dying out, but Ive even took the filter off just for kicks.
B.

 

Spitback at high rpm is normal to an extent. It's hard to judge without looking at it how much is too much. The fact that it ran fine with no problems steers me away from the reed valves still. I'm not saying they couldn't be the problem, but I just don't think so. Restricted exhaust will cause a lot of spitback, and reed valves not working right can do it to, but it can also spit back just because it's not quite running right. It sounds like carb problems still, especially since the performance is changing every time you use it. Echo blowers are good and generally worth the price of a carb. New carbs and even aftermarkets can be purchased on ebay pretty darn cheap.