Craftsman snowblower dies after 10 minutes

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  #1  
Old 01-27-15, 05:42 AM
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Craftsman snowblower dies after 10 minutes

Hello all, I am currently stuck in the middle of a blizzard with a broken snow blower - Cratsman 27" model # 536.881800 briggs and stratton 8.0 hp 0hv power built snow engine . I bought it used from a man who finds broken ones and "repairs" them. Figured it was a good way to save some money. It starts on the first or second pull. However, after using it for 10 minutes this morning it suddenly stops working, and I have to wait about 10 minutes to get it to start again.

I have read a bunch of the threads already and have tried running it on half choke, loosening the gas cap, however the only thing that seems to help is allowing at least 10 minutes(the longer the better) to get it to start again and even then it takes many many pulls. I let it sit again for about 2 hours and it again starts on the first pull.

I am willing to try anything but am very inexperienced mechanically (I change oil/spark plugs that's about it).

536.881800 model #
briggs and stratton 8.0 hp 0hv power built snow engine

I have only used fresh gas with stabilizer in it, and have also put some lucas oil into it after these problems started.

Please help!

Thank you everyone
 
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  #2  
Old 01-27-15, 06:21 AM
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Even though it sounds like it's overheating, start with examining the spark plug. Look at the electrode & see if it smells like gas.
 
  #3  
Old 01-27-15, 06:21 AM
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Run the blower until the engine quits then quickly check for spark. If you don't have spark I suspect a bad coil.

I find it handy to keep a known good spark plug in my pocket when testing. As soon as the engine dies pull the spark plug wire and stick it on your tester plug. Hold the plug so the tip is touching bare metal on the engine and try starting. See if the plug sparks.
 
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Old 01-27-15, 09:30 AM
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Engine replacement on snow blower

Hello all,
I posted in another thread a few hours ago that my snow blower was dying after about 10 minutes and I could not get it started again for about an hour.

I was able to start it again after about an hour, however I made 2 passes and the compartment next to the muffler caught on fire! I had to put it out with a fire extinguisher. Crazy.

I called the man I bought it from and unfortunately he has no desire to refund me. So I called Briggs and Stratton (which is who makes the engine) and filed a claim, they looked it up and it has a recall on the engine. They will be sending a representative out this week to assess it. Assuming they give me a new engine, or I buy a replacement, how do I swap it out?

Are there any online guides to swapping out a snow blower engine. The rest of the machine is in good shape and I would like to try to save it if I can, but I don't know the first thing about swapping out an engine.

If any one has any step by step guides, or information regarding this it would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Dexter
 

Last edited by PJmax; 01-27-15 at 09:54 AM. Reason: combined threads
  #5  
Old 01-27-15, 09:33 AM
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just had to subscribe to the thread since I forgot to the first time.
 
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Old 01-27-15, 09:37 AM
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Annnd it caught on fire. Please see my additional thread about swapping out an engine. Does anyone have any good websites I can refer to to see how to swap out an engine?

Any good advice on how to do so? From what I can see it looks like it just bolts on and you have to put the belts back on...or am I over simplifying?

Thanks,
D.
 
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Old 01-27-15, 09:45 AM
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I wouldn't waste my time replacing the engine. Take it to the scrap yard & get what you can for the weight.
 
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Old 01-27-15, 09:46 AM
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To eliminate confusion I combined the two threads into one.

It shouldn't be too difficult. There are four bolts holding the engine to the frame. Then you will have some type of pulley that will need to be removed. Removing the pulley will probably be the hardest part of the job.
 
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Old 01-27-15, 09:57 AM
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I thought the new engine would come with pulleys?
 
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Old 01-27-15, 10:06 AM
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No, you will have to swap the pulley(s). No big deal, just pay attention to their position on the shaft, so that you put them back in the same spot. If you have a good bench, great, but you might otherwise want to try removing the pulley while the engine is still bolted to the machine, just to hold it steady. If that's too tight, you might try turning the engine 180, and bolt it down with a couple of bolts that way. Before you do anything though, make good sketches or take good pictures of where the throttle cable attach, etc. Sometimes it's not quite so obvious once you have everything loose, so a minute or so capturing the details might save you time on the tail end.
 
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Old 01-27-15, 10:27 AM
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Who has the replacement engine? Is it new or used? How much is it?
 
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Old 01-27-15, 10:56 AM
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Don't make multiple threads for the same machine and ask us to "see your other threads". Keep everything in one place so we can follow what's going on.

I'm still trying to figure how a snow blower that you bought from "a man who finds broken ones and "repairs" them" and are getting Briggs to give you a new engine.
 
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Old 01-27-15, 11:43 AM
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Pilot Dane: I apologize just thought since it had become two separate issues I would post two separate threads. Any ideas how to swap out the engine?

The engine had a recall, so I spoke with Briggs and stratton and they are sending someone out to take some pictures etc in the next few days and will determine the steps from there.

At any rate, I need advice on if I should/is it feasible to swap out an engine. I would buy a new engine(does that make sense or should I just buy a new blower?) or get a replacement from Briggs.

Pedro: thanks for the advice about the pulleys, I am a novice, so I wasn't sure how bolting the engine down 180 deg would help me? Is it just a better angle to take it off with? And when you take them off how do you do it? Crowbar, pliers/wrench?

Does anyone out there have any good how to videos or have a step by step guide to doing this?


Thanks again everyone.
 
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Old 01-27-15, 12:13 PM
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The reason I suggested turning the engine was only because it may easier to get the pulley loose if the engine is somewhat stationary, so if you don't have a bench and/or way to clamp the engine to it, and if the handles or whatever are in the way of removing the pulley with it as is, you might try turning and bolting it down, simply as a work station. But the only reason that I suggest any of this is if the manufacturer will replace the engine at no cost to you. Like Pilot Dane though, I wonder how you are going to get a no charge replacement engine when you bought the machine used form a fixer upper guy, and if it turns out that you have to pay for it my suggestion is to forget it, and replace the whole machine.
 
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Old 01-27-15, 12:37 PM
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Pedro

Thanks that makes a lot of sense re: the pulley.

As for the replacement engine, I will see how it goes, they did not ask for any registration information just model and serial number. I would have to believe that if they are going through all the trouble of sending a technician to come look at it, that it would be a little late in the process to be asking for receipts or other information. At any rate I will take whatever I can get, and if not, I guess I will try to follow up with the guy who sold it to me. And if I get nowhere I will have to live and learn I guess.

The machine is only 10 years old, as I found the manufacture date on the side. I would hate to throw the entire thing away. Is it common for things outside of the engine to malfunction also?

Thanks again
 
  #16  
Old 01-27-15, 03:54 PM
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I imagine that Cheese or probably some others here could be more specific, but, based on what I have seen, by the time that the engine goes other things, like the bearings for the auger shaft, etc. are on their way out. That, factored with the fact that you said yourself you are inexperienced mechanically, you may end up spending money for a few tools that you might not use for a while. On the other hand, swapping out the engine on one of these is generally pretty straight forward, so maybe you should look it over good before the B&S tech shows up, and see if it looks like something that you want to do. Basically it's a matter of removing whatever shrouds might be in the way, disconnect the throttle cable/choke cable(s(, and whatever else is in the way, and, if you think that you can get the old one out, you can probably get the new one back in. The pulley(s) probably have allen/inverted hex head set screw(s) that need to be loosened first, and there will be a key in the slot that you don't want to lose in the process. If you don't have one and haven't done so yet, go to searspartsdirect.com, and you should be able to download a parts and owners manual, which won't tell you how to do the job, but will show you the components that are involved.
 
  #17  
Old 01-27-15, 04:24 PM
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Your snowblower is built for Craftsman/Sears by Murray.

Here is a link to the engine breakdown. Once the page opens.... click on "full size" under the diagram. The diagram will open in a new window. Now click on the new diagram. It will be an exploded view that you can move with the arrow buttons or cursor. Part # 6 is the drive pulley. It doesn't show a key or keyway so that will make the job easier.

Diagram & Parts List for Model 536881800 Craftsman-Snow-removal-equipment | Sears Parts Direct
 
  #18  
Old 02-12-15, 12:37 PM
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I have seen a short-term temporary fix is to warm up the motor. I think the problem is carburetor icing. The 'two hour' idle period is the giveway for me. Anything related to over-heating would not persist for that long, but icing in the carb throat would.

If you can safely direct heat at the carb for an hour, it should start and run. If you operate in dry and cold conditions then it should stay running.

I replaced the carb with this kit # 798917 from Sears Parts Direct. Supposedly is a bit larger to overcome fuel starvation and prevents moisture from traveling down the choke shaft.

Not sure if the 'recall' involves engine replacement. Please keep this thread informed !!!
Thanks

I have B&S 8.5HP 15A114-0342-E1 on a Craftsman 536.881850 (2005) .
 
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