Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Briggs Engine Recoil Start Problem


WML13's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,300
OH

02-07-15, 07:18 AM   #1  
Briggs Engine Recoil Start Problem

I just put in a new short block to replace a burned up 5hp engine on a toro 62923-3000145. The engine runs great, but the recoil start does not like to recoil some of the time, and when it doesnt recoil, it screams bloody murder. A mechanic told me to take the recoil off and spray some WD40 into the stub that the recoil pully grabs onto to initiate the pull start. That works for awhile but then it fails to work again. I'm thinking that there must be something else to lubricate this "hub" with that will last as long as when it was newer. Any Suggestions as to what to use, or am I replacing the hub altogether?

 
Sponsored Links
aj-allen's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 467
CO

02-07-15, 07:28 AM   #2  
Replace the Hub also know as a starter clutch. Thoroughly clean & polish the shaft.

 
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator

Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19,341
NE

02-07-15, 08:28 AM   #3  
You might be able to just remove the clutch, and clean up the shaft. The shaft and the inside of the clutch that fits over the shaft should be clean and dry. No oil. WD-40 and a pipe cleaner will clean up in there, then rinse and dry with compressed air. Add a bit of graphite powder before assembling. You don't usually want to open the clutch up and take it apart.

Inspect the shaft for any knicks like where someone hit it with a hammer.

 
aka pedro's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,340
MI

02-07-15, 10:05 AM   #4  
I use WD40 on things like that, but only to flush out any small grit. But it is not a lubricant, so I would typically flush it out, wipe it dry, and follow up with a real light spray of white grease. When putting the cover with the recoil in place, I generally start the bolts, maybe half way, then lightly tap the cover back and forth between my palms a couple of times, to let it center itself, then tighten the bolts, to avoid binding.

 
WML13's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,300
OH

02-08-15, 08:00 AM   #5  
Briggs Recoil Start Problem

Since this Hub or Clutch only has a small hole for access, (no larger than 1/16")in the outer end of the four sided shaft, I could easily spray WD 40 in there and blow it out with air, but putting any grease in there would be a challenge. I suppose the age of this machine would justify replacing the hub as the smart move. Thanks for the replies!

All good stuff

WML13

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,574
GA

02-08-15, 11:10 PM   #6  
You don't necessarily have to replace it, just take it off, clean the shaft and the inside of the "hub" and put a drop or two of oil on the felt pad in the top of the hub, and put it back together. Don't oil it much or you'll have problems.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
WML13's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,300
OH

02-09-15, 07:26 AM   #7  
Recoil Start Problem

I put this unit away last fall, and there is a couple feet of snow blocking my outdoor shed, so I can't look at it today to check. In order to get to the "Hub"
I have to remove the engine from the machine to remove the flywheel cover etc. I like your idea of cleaning the shaft and the drop of oil on the felt pad, but are you also suggesting that I take the "hub" completely,apart, or just doing this after I remove it from the crankshaft it threads onto?

"I'm in the foxhole 10 feet away, so let me know when you call in the fire!"

 
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator

Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19,341
NE

02-09-15, 10:35 AM   #8  
are you also suggesting that I take the "hub" completely,apart, or just doing this after I remove it from the crankshaft it threads onto?
Unscrew the clutch from the crankshaft. Clean the end of the crankshaft that the clutch fits over. Clean above the threaded part of the clutch... the inner part that slides over the hub. Cheese says use a couple drops of light oil... I say no oil, only a bit of graphite powder. But you don't need to open the clutch up and get to the ball bearings, if that's what you're asking... that's not why its squealing. Its squealing because the hub is gummy or knicked, and it's turning the clutch a little as the engine is running.

 
WML13's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,300
OH

02-09-15, 01:41 PM   #9  
Recoil Start Problem

Got it!

Thanks for the clarification!

WML13

 
WML13's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,300
OH

02-11-15, 06:58 PM   #10  
Recoil Start Problem

I brought it inside and when taking it apart to get to the clutch, the cover was loose, fell right off and dropped bearings all over the floor. So I cleaned everything, put some WD 40 on the felt pad, and put it back together. Started perfectly 3 times, no screaching. And that is all the lubrication this thing was assembled with originally?

 
Search this Thread