Starter not engaging the flywheel

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04-22-15, 03:10 PM

Liberty2014

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Starter not engaging the flywheel

I have a 2012 Craftsman YT 4500 riding more with a 26hp Briggs and Stratton engine. I actually have two problems. I have a short causing my fuse to blow. But also if I try to jump start the mower by crossing the sylinoid the starter spins yet the coggle doesn't spin the gear up to engage the flywheel. Replaced the sylinoid and the starter both. Also has new battery. Any advise, not a mech. Just trying to help an widow woman get her
Lower running again

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04-22-15, 03:14 PM

joecaption

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With the starter removed to you see missing teeth on the fly wheel?

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04-22-15, 03:55 PM

PJmax

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Welcome to the forums.

You replaced the solenoid and starter and still have the same problem ?

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04-22-15, 04:02 PM

chandler

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Welcome to the forums! Which fuse keeps blowing? Why are you having to jump across the solenoid to actuate the starter? You are saying the bendix gear does not travel upward at all? New starter?

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04-22-15, 04:46 PM

Liberty2014

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Yes, I can see starter turning, and no their is no teeth missing on flywheel.

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04-22-15, 04:49 PM

Liberty2014

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The 20 amp fuse, their is a short somewhere , and so just to try and get the mower to start I have tried jumping across the solenoid. And correct the bendix gear doesn't travel up

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04-22-15, 04:58 PM

chandler

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The fuse is blowing for a reason. That reason could be contributing to the no start condition. What does the 20 amp fuse protect?

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04-22-15, 05:29 PM

Liberty2014

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Well new solved the engaging part to the starter, but afraid it created a issue electrical. As I stated this mower belongs to a wifi lady and she had a young man come and change the battery out and I just noticed he had battery on backwards. Reversed cables and now starter engaging. How ever appears that it isn't firing. Key doesn't do anything when turned and it blowed the fuse as soon as it is put in. However u can jump across sylinoid and make starter engage now. Any recommendations???

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04-22-15, 05:32 PM

Liberty2014

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Sorry spelling sucks, typing on my iPhone and spell check doesn't always work in your favor

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04-22-15, 05:45 PM

cheese

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I was about to suggest checking to be sure the battery wasn't connected backwards, lol. It happens.

When the battery was connected backwards, it likely fried the coil and possibly the alternator. This would be the reason for the blowing fuse and engine not starting.

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04-22-15, 07:06 PM

Liberty2014

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I can understand the coil possibly fried, but the key doesn't work, and the light don't come on either. Would that also be a symptom to the alternator being bad. Also where is alternator located and do you have any idea how much the coil and a alternator would cost?

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04-22-15, 10:57 PM

cheese

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The key won't work if the fuse is blowing. The alternator is under the flywheel. You can unplug it and if the fuse doesn't blow then you know it's the problem. The plug is the one with a red and black wire in a rectangular connector near the starter. I think new ones are $80 or so if I remember right. Most small engine shops will have used ones. They don't usually go bad, so putting a used one on is as good as putting a new one on.

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04-23-15, 05:01 AM

Vermont

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I converted a mower with a recoil engine to and electric start engine last year and one of the casualties of my re-wiring was the ignition coil when a minor (human) error in hooking up the ground for the new ignition switch sent current backwards up the kill wire and smoked the coil.

I suppose a short somewhere in the wiring harness could have done the same thing.

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Outdoor Gasoline and Electric Powered Equipment and Small Engines
Replacing worm gear in Craftsman snow thrower model 247

D

dwalker2010 on Mar 16, 2014

I have a Craftsman 26" Snow Thrower, Model No. 247.88691, purchased 2009. The worm gear on the auger shaft stripped a few months ago and needed to be replaced. I got help from the forum about it, and I promised to post this after I replaced the gear, because I couldn't find instructions for it from Craftsman or online. I hope this will help some other people who have the same problem. How I replaced a stripped worm gear, in the gear box at the center of the auger shaft. When the augers on the snow thrower do not turn under load (they do not turn when the auger control on the left handle is pressed down and the snow thrower is run into snow), then the first thing to check is whether any of the shear pins have broken. If necessary, see “Replacing Shear Pins” on page 16 of the OM (Operator’s Manual). If the shear pins are intact, and the augers do not turn under load (or if they turn but stop when run into snow), check to see if the impeller (#2 on page 26 of OM) is rotating as normal when the auger control on the handle is pressed down. If the impeller is turning but the augers are not, then the 20-tooth gear (#46 on page 26 of OM) in the gear box (#s 37 & 38 on page 26 of OM) has probably stripped and needs replacing. This is an MTD part used in Craftsman and some other brands of snow throwers. It is part 717-04449 in the OM, but the replacement part now (March 2014) is 917-0528A ($65). You will also need a low temperature lubricant, and an RTV silicone gasket maker. I got the RTV sgm from a local auto store, but couldn’t find the lubricant locally. MTD Lubricant part #737-0300A is highly recommended. Read through the steps below first for a few other things you’ll need. I made these notes and took these photos when taking the snow thrower apart, and used them pretty much in reverse to reassemble it. Plan on taking your time and doing this slow. Plan on taking several hours at least just to get the auger and impeller shafts out of the machine. These notes are typed up afterward as ‘best recollection’. If something doesn’t quite make sense, just slow down and think things through for yourself. When removing screws and bolts, line them up them up in removal order along something like a window ledge where they will not be disturbed, and/or mark them so that you will use the right screws and bolts as you reassemble. Some are very similar and they can easily get mixed up if you’re not careful. 1. Remove the black plastic upper belt cover – 2 screws. This is between the engine and the black plastic snow chute that the snow shoots out of. 2. Remove bottom frame cover (#39 on page 30 of OM. (This might not be absolutely necessary, but I think it will make it easier to reassemble the snow thrower when you’re putting everything back together.) To remove the bottom frame cover, drain most of the gas and tip the snowthrower 90 degrees so that the machine rests on the front edge of the auger housing – wheels in the air and handles top most. I needed help with this step. Don’t leave the machine in this position any longer than necessary, because after a while the oil will begin to leak out around the yellow oil fill cap. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the bottom frame cover on, remove the frame cover, and tip the machine back to resting on its wheels. 3. You’re going to separate the front section (impeller and auger section) from the back section (motor, wheels, handle section). First remove the nuts from the 4 bolts that hold the black plastic chute adapter in place (#13 on page 26 of OM). 7/16 hex. 4. Work the front (auger) V-belt (#71 on page 30 of OM) forward off the small grey center wheel (about 2 3/4 diameter). To get more slack in the belt, manipulate the spring-loaded black pulley wheel (#63 on page 30 of OM) that’s to the right of center as you look at the area from the front (auger side) of the machine. The pulley wheel is about 3diameter. (See e ST Photo 1.) 5. Remove the cable from the Auger Control on the left handle: push the spring-loaded black pulley wheel (see step 4 above) toward center to slacken the auger cable. At the same time, there should be just enough slack to remove the cable’s goose-neck fitting from the Auger Control on the left handle. Lay the cable down carefully and always be careful not to kink or snap it. 6. Now you’re going to remove the bolts that connect the two sections of the machine. When these bolts are loosened, the weight of the back section (motor, wheels, handles) will cause it to tip backwards, so first chock in front of the wheels and put something under the handles, such as an adjustable sawhorse or something you improvise. Remove the four bolts and washers (1/2 hex). 7. Gently tug and wriggle the auger housing (front) section out and up away from the back section. Keep an eye on the auger cable and give it more slack as the auger housing pulls free of the back section. (See e ST Photo 2.) 8. Tip the auger section 90 degrees – giving the auger cable more slack as needed, so that the housing rests on the front edge, with the auger V-belt topmost. 9. Loosen the bolt at the top center (#48 on page 30 of OM); ½ hex. You’ll need to insert a stout stick of wood through the chute hole to keep the impeller paddles from turning while you loosen this bolt. I used a piece of .75 x 1.5 (actual) wood about 16 long; you may be able to use a 2x2x16 or so. (See e ST Photo 3.) This bolt is on very tight, and on re-assembly it must be put back on very tight. For the bolt, I used some blue threadlocker gunk on reassembly; you’ll also have to use the stout stick to keep the impeller paddles from turning when tightening it on reassembly. A spring loa 10. Continue to loosen this bolt until it is free (it screws into the end of the impeller shaft). Lift off the V-belt and wheel assembly (#s 46-48, 66 &71 on page 30 of OM) and put safely aside until reassembly. For reassembly you’ll have to move a spring-loaded part to one side for the belt wheel to go back on. 11. Loosen first and then remove the four bolts (1/2 hex) that hold the auger shaft to the sides of the auger housing. When the bolts are removed the impeller and auger shafts should drop down to the floor, about 1. 12. Tip the auger housing back. (See e ST Photo 4.) Remove the impeller from the impeller shaft. 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