Craftsman LT1000 19.5 Briggs and Stratton Turbo Cool Won't Stay Running
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Craftsman LT1000 19.5 Briggs and Stratton Turbo Cool Won't Stay Running
Older Craftsman LT1000
19.5 HP Briggs and Stratton Turbo Cool Engine
Engine Model 42E707 Type 2631 E1 Code 9809185A
When I start the engine it smokes really bad and won't run for more than 20 seconds or so, then it stops starting all together. The smoke is white.
If I let it sit for 30 or so minutes then I can get it to run for another 10-20 seconds and then it won't start again.
Almost like it is getting too much gas and flooding as I can smell gas very strongly.
Any Ideas, anyone had this issue?
19.5 HP Briggs and Stratton Turbo Cool Engine
Engine Model 42E707 Type 2631 E1 Code 9809185A
When I start the engine it smokes really bad and won't run for more than 20 seconds or so, then it stops starting all together. The smoke is white.
If I let it sit for 30 or so minutes then I can get it to run for another 10-20 seconds and then it won't start again.
Almost like it is getting too much gas and flooding as I can smell gas very strongly.
Any Ideas, anyone had this issue?
#2
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Just in an overview of the problem you're describing the carburetor often leaks gas into the crankcase and the overfill in the oil sump lets oil come up past the rings as well as the crankcase breather and kills the engine with oil as well as the gas from the leaking carburetor.
The place to start is check the oil for gas contamination and drain it if diluted with gasoline. Then, before running, you have to fix the gas leak which is likely coming from the carb, often from the float valve not seating. With that done refill with fresh oil and you should be good to go
The place to start is check the oil for gas contamination and drain it if diluted with gasoline. Then, before running, you have to fix the gas leak which is likely coming from the carb, often from the float valve not seating. With that done refill with fresh oil and you should be good to go
#5
Check your oil level and smell it for gas. If it is over full and smells of gas, then I agree with marbobj, you likely have a needle/seat/float issue with the carb.
The carb needs fixed and fresh uncontaminated oil before you should run it.
And yes that symptom would point to this problem. Likely from the muffler which may have some fuel contaminated oil in it.
This may remain after the problem is fixed and still smoke a bit at first but should burn out/off once the problem is solved and the oil changed.
The carb needs fixed and fresh uncontaminated oil before you should run it.
And yes that symptom would point to this problem. Likely from the muffler which may have some fuel contaminated oil in it.
This may remain after the problem is fixed and still smoke a bit at first but should burn out/off once the problem is solved and the oil changed.
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I am not a small engine guy but my Dad is, and he figured it is a stuck float. We are gonna tear it apart saturday and fix it but I have all of the parts now thanks to you guys I made sure to have all the oil stuff.
I will report back once we have worked on it to let you know the results...
If this was EFI and Computer diags like a car I'd have it going by now, freaking carburetors.
I will report back once we have worked on it to let you know the results...
If this was EFI and Computer diags like a car I'd have it going by now, freaking carburetors.
#7
IIRC this carb should have a plastic float which I don't believe I have ever found one to leak, possible to be stuck but not as likely. More likely would be needle and seat or some contamination preventing the seal.
Good luck, and you can have your EFI, I will keep my normally aspirated fuel systems
Good luck, and you can have your EFI, I will keep my normally aspirated fuel systems
#8
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Everything you've seen points to a common problem with the carb leaking so you and your dad will have it going. He'll take the diluted oil out of it before running the engine.
The EFI's are better in a lot of ways when it comes to the engine running and performance. They are in more and more engines and probably will take over most of the fuel systems. At this point it's just a matter of cost/cost effectiveness. That may prove to be a long term barrier in the smaller, lower priced engines, but you never know - now you can carry a calculator in a wristwatch.
The EFI's are better in a lot of ways when it comes to the engine running and performance. They are in more and more engines and probably will take over most of the fuel systems. At this point it's just a matter of cost/cost effectiveness. That may prove to be a long term barrier in the smaller, lower priced engines, but you never know - now you can carry a calculator in a wristwatch.