Hi.
I have a Husqvarna 125B blower I have owned since new for maybe 3 years now. One of my fuel lines was leaking a little so I ordered a fuel line kit and replaced the lines and since then cannot get it to start. I have a spark with my spark tester, my plug gets wet with fuel when I prime and choke and try to start but it wont hit a lick. Muffler is not clogged and I have tried putting a small squirt of gas in cylinder and putting plug back and it wont even sputter. I have tried starting fluid in carburetor and it wont even hit. I am at a loss.
I am a really good tinkerer with power equipment, replaced seals and reed on my Lawn Boy Duraforce, rebuilt plenty of carbs but this is a real bear. I have pulled kill switch to rule it out and it wont try to hit with kill switch out of equation.

I am wondering if the coil is weak and not giving a good enough spark to fire under compression?? I rebuilt the carb after all this started and I have reset high and low to 1.5 turns out and get fuel to the plug but still nothing.

Any suggestions out there before I buy a new coil and maybe a new carburetor after that? Hate to throw in the towel but by the time I buy those I am a third of the way or more to a new one.

Thanks in advance.
Robert

 

If your plug is getting wet, that's your problem. For some reason it's flooding. How are your fuel lines connected? I'm thinking you have them connected wrong.

 

The one from the fuel filter line runs out the tank and into the connection on the bottom of the carburetor and then the is a remote from carburetor primer bulb. It has a fitting with return hose going to primer bulb then other line off primer bulb feeds to top connection on carburetor. It is a Zama C1q w37 carburetor. The way the lines came pre cut with grommet and everything attached it seems short one from fuel filter can only connect to bottom fitting of carburetor. Could I be wrong???
Thanks for the reply.
Robert

 

Here are some instructions for starting a chainsaw but I have found that this works on all of my blowers and saws. Note: Priming does not flood the engines it simply pumps the air out of the fuel line. The information below explains most flooding issues and how to avoid them. I would give this a try before you start buying parts.

Flooding is caused by too much gas applied at the wrong time and can prevent a saw from starting.

A suggestion loggers make is pulling the engine's cord through 8 times with all systems off. I don't know if this actually helps drain the liquid gas or gives a bit more drain time but I am assured it works. Do it 8 times! Then, without priming, try restarting with all systems on.

Now. Set the on/off switch in the "on" position. The throttle "on" position should be turned on only as a last resort. Actually, I am told some late-model chainsaws specifically instruct you to tweak the throttle - so do it if instructed. Put the choke to the "on" position. Everything should be back on.

Now that you have cleared the engine of too much "liquid" gasoline and setting the choke in the "on" position, pull the engine cord several times through until the engine "pops" one time. A pop is a quick audible response and jerk by the engine without cranking. Please, NO more than one pop with choke on or you risk another fatal flood.

PLACE THE CHOKE IN THE OFF POSITION NOW!

With the choke in the off position, pull the engine's crank cord through again. The engine should start in 1 to 3 pulls. Try it first without using the throttle control.

Colder weather or a saw just out of storage can complicate these instructions. Here is further advice from an About Forestry Forum poster: "If I haven't gotten a pop in four pulls I transition to the part throttle, no-choke position and if I haven't gotten a start in maybe 8 pulls I return to the choke position for one or two pulls. I am sure this varies with different chainsaws, but you shouldn't have to pull very many times in the choke position, even in cold weather."

 

Not sure I understand how the primer is connected. The primer suction side should connect to the carburetor. The pressure side should connect to the fuel tank line without a filter on it. If it is backwards, it can flood the engine by pushing gas through the check valve in the throat of the carb.

 

Well, the primer and hoses came pre assembled in the kit. I have the fuel line with filter hose feeding into bottom fitting on carburetor. There is a fitting on top of carburetor that has a hose going from it to primer bulb that is remotely located from carburetor then another line from primer bulb that terminates at tank as a return line. Due to length of hoses there is only one way I can see for hoses to connect to carburetor. Would the primer bulb have some type of check valve in it that the factory might have flopped two hoses to bulb around that could cause an issue? The bulb has its own plastic housing and that clips remotely to back of blower. Bulb is not part of carburetor. I see fuel flowing thru bulb when I press it.
Thanks, hope that clears up bulb question a little. I am at work today and work 24 hour shifts or I would take a picture and post it.

Robert

 

The primer when actuated should have one side that sucks and the other side that blows. The side that sucks should go to the carb, the side that blows should go to the tank.

 

Ok. Thanks. I will look at it tomorrow and test it. I will report my findings back and hopefully be able to go from there.
Robert

 

You have 3 fuel lines. the line with the filter in the tank,goes to the pump side of the carb.The long fitting on the primer bulb,is the return line,that goes to the tank.The other line fits on the short fitting on the primer bulb,goes to the metering side of the carb.Hope this helps.

Jerry

 

Ok. I verified my 3 lines are on correct. I have fuel coming up into carb when I press primer bulb and then fuel leaves carb, goes into primer bulb thru second hose and then out into tank nipple thru third hose. Each press pulls fuel with fine air bulbs on some presses. Could that be a problem?
I can't figure out why I don't get a pop with fuel injected staight into plug hole and plug reinstalled. This is so baffling but all started with changing of fuel lines so I am trying not to throw ignition into equation.

Any other suggestions. I have compression. Haven't measured with gauge but enough to push my finger off plug hole.

Thanks for all info folks.
Robert

 

You're probably not getting a pop when you put fuel in the hole because it's already flooded. If it is flooded to the point of not starting, adding gas only makes it worse. Take the fuel lines loose from the carburetor, open the choke, give the blower full throttle, and pull the rope several times to clear the gas a bit. It may start, or if the spark plug is gassed, it may require a new plug to start.

 

Hey Cheese. You were right. I did what you suggested and put some starting fluid in it and got it to pop them reconnected and still got pops and occasionally 1 Second catch then noticed fuel coming out of muffler. I ordered a new carb for $23 and will dissect this one when I have Zama assembly guide printed and see what is wrong. Could be inlet needle seat is shot. Thanks for the help. New carb due in Monday or Tuesday and will report back. Got a spline tool too in case it has an full throttle issues later.
Thanks everyone.
Robert

 

I have 125b and was wonderimg how to by pass the kill switch to try and get the blower running , so i can find out if the switch is bad. Thank you

 

Just disconnect the wire going to it. That switch is just a continuity switch to ground to kill the ignition. Taking the wire off eliminates the ground.

 

Thanks marbobj. Upon further reading. I am getting a spark so i think that would not be the switch is faulting. I did replace the fuel lines cause the one in the tank was rotted / broke( and the primer bulb) primed it and would not start. Seemed as the gas was getting into the cylinder though. Probably i have a dirty caburetor. Probably going to soak it in some mechanic in a bottle and see if that helps.

 

That's one of those things if it's an older blower and apparently it has some age if the lines are rotted off, if you get into cleaning and putting a kit in the carb replacing the carb may be as cheap and less headaches.

 

Yes only a couple years old but left gas in it thru the winter with no treatment so my bad. I hear you less headache to replace the carb as opposed to rebuilding it.and not real confident taking it apart. Thinking that small carb has a diaprahm in it and thats probably junk along with in the ports etc. thanks for the help👍