Snapper riding mower will not move.

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  #1  
Old 07-17-15, 06:44 AM
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Snapper riding mower will not move.

I was mowing yesterday with my old Snapper rider. 30 in cut, 8 hp B/S. The motor runs. The blade turns. The mower will not move. Tried different speeds, nothing helps. What is wrong?
 
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  #2  
Old 07-17-15, 06:57 AM
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And the model # is?
Does it take two belts, one for the blades and one for the hydrolics?
 
  #3  
Old 07-17-15, 07:44 AM
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Snapper Rider

hydrolics?
No "hydrolics". All mechanical.
 
  #4  
Old 07-17-15, 09:06 AM
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Put it neutral, push in the clutch and lock it, Stand it on end and check the drive doughnut, it has probably busted., remove the 6 or seven bolts, slide the drive donut off, I think there is a thin fiber disk behind it don't loose that. Get a new donut and reverse the procedure and you are done. Have a good one. Geo
 
  #5  
Old 07-17-15, 10:37 AM
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Mower

Thanks, Geo.

Should I drain the oil and gas before standing on end?
 
  #6  
Old 07-17-15, 11:17 AM
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If it is the model I am thinking of Snapper Hi Vac, it has 2 bars on the back that you hook the grass catcher on to, they are also there to stand it up on for storage, so no draining the oil is not necessary. Close the vent in the fuel cap though, I forgot about that. If you go to snapper.com under riding mowers yours is an old version of the rear engine rider they show. Have a good one. Geo
 
  #7  
Old 07-17-15, 11:32 AM
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Mower

Thanks again, Geo.

The model number is 30087BE. Purchased new in 1994.
 
  #8  
Old 07-17-15, 09:21 PM
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The driven disk could have worn out, the chain in either chaincase could have broken, the shear pin on the axle hub could have sheared, the sprocket ont he hex tube coul be worn out, lots of possibilities with these. Fortunately they are fairly easy to work on. Inspection will be the only way to know what went wrong.
 
  #9  
Old 07-18-15, 08:22 AM
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Snapper Disc

Here are photos of the disc:





Looks like maybe 1/16 in. rubber left. Ordered new disc.
Also, when I turned the driven disc, the wheels turned. Hope this means axle parts are OK.
 
  #10  
Old 07-18-15, 11:36 AM
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Yep, looks like you found the problem!
 
  #11  
Old 07-23-15, 04:25 PM
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Disc

New disc did not solve the problem. I used the old thrust washer. Disc was not tight on the hub. Ordered new thrust washer. Stay tuned for next episode.
 
  #12  
Old 07-24-15, 01:10 AM
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Did the new disc have the lining on the inside? They make them with and without. Yours needs it.
 
  #13  
Old 07-24-15, 06:00 AM
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Disc

New disk is made same as two old ones I have kept from previous changes. New disk has brake lining around inside of rim. The round, inside face is bare metal, same as the old ones.

What is the thickness of a new thrust washer?
 
  #14  
Old 07-24-15, 10:42 AM
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Th efiber thrush washer? Not sure, probably .015" or so. The thickness of it won't keep it from working, it will work even if that is absent. Is your driven disk pulling up tight to the engine disk?
 
  #15  
Old 07-24-15, 02:10 PM
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Clutch



Part numbers 2,3,4 and 5 do not fit tight.

Seems like part 4 needs to be thicker to make a tight fit.

What am I missing here?

And, yes, the driven disc and the driver disc mate up well.
 
  #16  
Old 07-24-15, 09:00 PM
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The driven disk (#3) should be loose on part #2. #4 is just there to keep the metal parts from rubbing each other and making a scraping noise. If you can turn #2 and the wheels turn, that's the objective. When #3 touches the drive disk and #2 presses it tight under spring tension, the lining inside the driven disk grabs #2 and turns it.

I just replaced 2 of these transmissions this morning.
 
  #17  
Old 07-25-15, 04:58 AM
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Disc

Thanks, Cheese, for the explanation of how this thing works. Now I know how to check it out.

Stay tuned for next episode.
 
  #18  
Old 07-29-15, 01:03 PM
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Snapper

Got everything back together and gave it a try. Same problem. Will not go. Tries to move in 1st gear. Looks like something is loose or broken in the rear axle. Looked at the parts diagrams and could not see any thing suspect. With the rear end off the ground and the mower in 2nd gear, I can feel resistance when I try to turn both rear wheels in the same direction with the engine not running.

I think it is time to replace the mower. I want a 42 in. zero turn.

Which brand is the best deal for the money?

I prefer Scag, but I think it will be out of my price range. I am considering John Deere, Toro, Kubota, and Scag. I read some bad reviews about Husqvarna, so that one is out. What do you owners think? And, Cheese, thank you for your help. What would you recommend?
 
  #19  
Old 07-30-15, 01:11 AM
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I wonder if the drive disk on the engine needs to slide down a little towards the driven wheel. Just had to make that adjustment on one of the ones I recently worked on to get it moving.

It's hard to pick a good one when talking ZTRs. The scags with the kawasakis at lowes look to be pretty nice machines for the money.
 
  #20  
Old 07-30-15, 01:24 PM
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Gave up on repairing. 21 years is enough. Bought one of these:

It has a Kawasaki engine.
 
  #21  
Old 07-30-15, 06:51 PM
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You should be happy with that!
 
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