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John Deere Riding Lawn mower will not turn over and start.


Hooligan72's Avatar
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09-15-15, 06:26 AM   #1  
John Deere Riding Lawn mower will not turn over and start.

I need help with my John Deere LA115 mower. It will not turn over & start..B&S 19.5 hp OHV engine.




So far: Valves adjusted to sprc.
New battery (2 different new batteries)
New starter ( old one checked out OK, but put on new one.
Carb. solenoid checked ok
All safety switches checked ok




Can turn flywheel past compression release and engine fires up & run great. Shut down, try to start again, maybe a quarter turn (to compression) stops like the battery is dead. Give it that little help past the compression point & she fires right up.




And on & on & on. Can't figure this out. Got any suggestions?

 
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09-15-15, 09:32 AM   #2  
If you have to turn by hand and it starts then the valves are not adjusted right !!

 
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09-15-15, 10:20 AM   #3  
If you adjusted the valves right, then the compression release mechanism on the camshaft is broken. It's a pretty common failure.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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09-15-15, 10:24 AM   #4  
I need help with my LA115 john Deere lawn tractor.

You may be right, however the valves have been adjusted to specs by 2 different mechanics this past week and the same problem continues.

Have replaced battery with (new) identical battery also connected to automotive battery. Same problem continues.

Replaced with new starter, problem continues.

Got fire, Got fuel, just will not turn over unless it is turned past compression point. Then it spins over, starts right up & runs like a new one.

Try to start again, same old story. What's left besides a giant hammer?

 
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09-15-15, 10:28 AM   #5  
I need help with my LA115 john Deere lawn tractor.

If the CA is broken.\, is that a complex repair. I have never broken down a small engine.

 
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09-15-15, 12:02 PM   #6  
The hardest part is getting the engine off the mower then it's a piece of cake. All you have to take off is the sump and your cam is staring you in the face. You need a torque wrench to put your bolts back in though. 20 bucks at auto zone. whats your model and type. I can look up a price for the cam. I think yours is 100 bucks or better.

 
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09-15-15, 12:47 PM   #7  
Thanks. Model 31_677, type 0144BE, Code 100401ZD. What do you do with the lifters? Is there any way to check it before you pull all of that off just to make sure that this is the problem:

 
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09-15-15, 12:57 PM   #8  
If your valves were done by a qualified mechanic then Cheese is correct on the cam

I need the third missing number of your model but a 12 hp cam is 80 bucks.

 
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09-15-15, 01:04 PM   #9  
Sorry it is 31P677 is the correct model number. Thanks for all the replies.

 
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09-15-15, 01:12 PM   #10  
81 bucks.

Did you try jumping at the starter itself ? You might have loose connection somewhere. Hot or ground.

Wish you were closer to me I could do it for you !!

 
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09-15-15, 02:32 PM   #11  
I need help with my LA115 john Deere lawn tractor.

Yes, I tried jumping, by-passing, loose connections & rechecking. Not saying that I may not have missed something. I think the post about a broken CR sounds like a winner. It is a 19.5 HP rather than a 12HP.

I'm going to have to sleep on it before I can nerve up to pulling that engine and taking it apart. Never tackled anything like that, plus I don't have anywhere to work on it.

Now, see how easy it is to come up with excuses.

Thanks to everyone for all the input. I will post the outcome.

 
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09-15-15, 07:45 PM   #12  
You can check it by watching the valve operation. With the valves properly set, rotate the engine clockwise from the top by hand and watch the valves. As they both close on the compression stroke, as you slowly rotate the engine you should see the bottom valve bump just a tad. This is the compression release letting off a little pressure. If yours doesn't do this, the cam is bad. It's usually about 90 bucks at small engine shops and easy to replace. I've done many, so it's maybe a 45 minute to 1 hour job for me. Someone who has never done it should be able to do it in an afternoon. No need for a torque wrench since you aren't taking any torque critical bolts out. 4 bolts holding the engine on, 11 or so around the oil pan I think. Get a new pan gasket too. I don't even disconnect the wiring or throttle cable, I just pull the engine, set it up on the frame of the mower, change the parts and bolt it back down. Use a small magnet like the tiny ones on a telescoping rod to get the tiny broken pieces of the old camshaft out before you put it back together. Be sure to install the new lifters and re-set the valve clearances afterwards.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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09-17-15, 07:22 AM   #13  
Thank you so much for all the help. Will let you know about the outcome. First time I have used this forum, and it is great.

 
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