Changing Cub Cadet 2130 Front Oil Seal

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Old 09-16-15, 09:20 AM
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Question Changing Cub Cadet 2130 Front Oil Seal

Hello ... this tractor of mind has a long history with this forum. Now the front oil seal went ... I don't think it should be as bad as changing the back seal. But could you tell me what needs to be done to remove and replace the seal? All the engine info is on the old thread. Thanks for reading my post.
 
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Old 09-18-15, 02:18 PM
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Arrow Can't Anyone Tell Me?

Does anyone know if I have to remove the engine to get to the front seal? Can anyone tell me if I have to remove the PTO clutch to get to the front seal? Can anyone tell me how to remove the PTO clutch? Can anyone tell me if there is anything on youtube that can show me how to disassemble the 2135 cub cadet to get the the front oil seal?
 
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Old 09-18-15, 07:22 PM
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It's been so long since I messed with one that I don't recall. If the PTO clutch is on that side of the engine, then yes, it has to come off. Generally you remove the 5/8" bolt in the center and slide the clutch off. Then you probably have access to the seal and can change it there if there is room.
 
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Old 09-19-15, 08:07 AM
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Arrow Here's a couple of pictures

There are several bolt just above the PTO... you can just see them in the second picture ... do I have to open that up to replace the seal? You can see it's just behind the PTO. Is a special tool required to install the seal? Does the engine have to come out to replace the seal?
 
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Old 09-19-15, 11:34 AM
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That looks pretty easy and straight forward. Take the clutch off and the seal is right there behind it. It's probably best to get a seal puller from an automotive store but it can be done without one. The ,ain thing is to be very careful to not scratch the crankshaft when pulling or installing the seal. The shaft is softer than you think and will gouge easily. If that happens, the engine has to come off and apart to repair. Drive the new seal in with a seal installer or a piece of PVC pipe that matches the diameter of the seal closely if you can find something in that range. Make sure the seal is installed squarely within the bore. The bolts in the picture don't have to come out, it looks like the only bolt that has to co,me out is the PTO clutch bolt. The engine doesn't have to come off either.
 
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Old 09-23-15, 10:45 AM
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Is there any precautions I need to take when removing the PTO clutch and bolt? I was reading some posts about the pistons and being on the compression stroke when taking it out. One poster wrote: 'moving the pto pulley mark the lowest point of piston and highest point. move pulley till the piston starts to come up.stop it. feed about 4 inch of extension cord in to spark plug hole. move the pulley till it stops! now get the 5/8 rachet lossen the bolt."

Is all that necessary? Also the bolt has to be 45-50 pounds torque? Now the crankshaft that is on the other side of the seal correct?
 
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Old 09-23-15, 08:25 PM
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The only thing they are doing is using rope to stop the engine from turning when you try to loosen the bolt. If you have an impact gun, this won't be necessary. The torque value isn't critical, they just want to be sure you get it tight enough. It needs to be very tight but don't break the bolt off. The crankshaft is what the bolt is in, and it goes all the way through the seal, the engine, and out the other side to the flywheel.
 
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Old 09-24-15, 12:55 PM
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Arrow Can't Get The PTO Off

I found a copy of the service manual for that model and it states to remove the bolt, washer, and spacer, then slide the PTO off ... well it won't slide off and I fear I may break it:NO NO NO: ... what should I do to remove it safely? I tried to remove the muffler, but the right bottom bolt on the frame broke ending that mission. Hopefully I can clear the PTO ... once I get it to slide ... without removing the muffler
 
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Old 09-24-15, 04:33 PM
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Usually you can put a couple 2X4s or something like that, one on either side, and pry it off the shaft when they're stuck like that.
 
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Old 09-25-15, 04:20 PM
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Red face It Be Sealed :)

Well sir .... I'm happy to report I got it I had complications with the PTO clutch not slipping off ... I started with a 2x2 ... then a 2x4 to pry it off the shaft. I found that the PTO is in 3 parts all connected with magnets. I had a problem with the muffler coming off because the nuts were rusted. I broke one so I sprayed the other and waited over night, then I screw back and forth ... finally slowly unscrewed it. I could not get the PTO off without removing the muffler.

I didn't have a PCV pipe big enough to fit over the seal so I used the old seal with hammer and screwdriver to pound in the new, then I had to dig the old one back out. I was tempted to leave both in, but I figure maybe it might mess it up ... I don't know. Putting everything back together was easier than taking it apart. But all is well no more oil leak. Thanks for all the help.
 
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Old 09-25-15, 08:53 PM
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Glad you got it, thanks for the update!
 
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Old 09-26-15, 12:27 PM
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Arrow Forgot to say

I forgot to mention that I had to remove the front grill in order to remove the muffler. There was the grill and a metal strip that is part of the outer body below it. Two bolts to remove the strip and four small bolts to remove the grill. Also I had to disconnect the electric plug from the PTO. This is for my reference in case I have to do this again, as well as info for others with this problem. Thanks again.
 
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