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Best options for rebuilding 8HP Briggs


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10-13-15, 12:24 PM   #1  
Best options for rebuilding 8HP Briggs

This is from my Trac Vac 880, I would like to put a Honda GX in there but a simple rebuild may be the way to go..could I get a GX to work with the impeller housing? I believe the current briggs is a 1" shaft, I surely don't want to purchase a new impeller. I have a light knock so I don't want to keep using it and beat the crank up

What other engines would drop right in? If I could find one that the impeller housing would bolt to I may just simply swap power units and rebuild the Briggs later.

I believed I copied these numbers down correctly....the Briggs #'s are:

Model: 19232 (hard to read)
Type: 1189-E1
Code: 0005291A

Would a Stens kit work fine or should I use OE?

Thanks.

 
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10-13-15, 01:13 PM   #2  
First you need to check the crank if you are knocking. It might be piston slap if so you need to mic a few things.

I like the rotary gasket sets myself.

 
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10-13-15, 01:22 PM   #3  
you are missing a number or letter in your model. Spray some WD 40 and give it a scrub and voila they appear !!

 
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10-13-15, 03:43 PM   #4  
Go to Home - Small Engine Warehouse in the re-power area and see what they have, my guess is it will be cheaper and less hassle than a rebuild. Have a good one. Geo

 
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10-14-15, 07:16 AM   #5  
Tried removing that impeller yet?
The reason I ask is I went through all this last year on A DR brand Vac.
Ended up having to cut the old impeller off to salvage the blower housing.
DR so far has sent me 6, yes I said 6, brand engines. All failed within an hour.
Briggs got involved and sent my local dealer a new engine and crank (mines a 2" shaft, no idea why B&S did not just send an assembled unit) They paid the dealer to do the work.
That one lasted about 5 hours.
There using a plastic timing gear that just sheers off.

 
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10-14-15, 12:00 PM   #6  
I will look for the missing digit.

Haven't tried removing the impeller yet, but I will surely soak it in PB overnight.

I don't know what's available now for small engines but these flathead 8HP engines are tough as can be.....I'll check the crank for sure.

 
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10-14-15, 12:47 PM   #7  
Since the model number has a digit missing I can't check at briggs however small engine has a 8hp short block for $150. Have a good one. Geo
Engines

 
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10-15-15, 03:31 PM   #8  
The correct model# is 192432

Uses a 3 21/32" straight shaft x 1" diameter.

 
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10-18-15, 06:06 PM   #9  
Tried removing that impeller yet?
The reason I ask is I went through all this last year on A DR brand Vac.
Ended up having to cut the old impeller off to salvage the blower housing.
I used the two holes in the impeller for the access to the housing bolts to anchor the puller, came right off but was definitely snug.

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10-19-15, 10:44 AM   #10  
Geo 150.00 for a short block that is cheap ~!~! What site is that ??

i6 pwr is that an I/C or Power Built ?

 
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10-19-15, 12:18 PM   #11  
On my previous post #7, click on the "Engines" caption. Have a good one. Geo

 
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10-19-15, 12:26 PM   #12  
Thanks didn't know that was a link till I looked at it again thanks.

 
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10-19-15, 12:35 PM   #13  
I would rebuild the Briggs a gasket set is 26 bux and a ring set is 23 or 25 bux depending on if it's a cast iron bore or aluminum bore.

 
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10-19-15, 02:56 PM   #14  
Doesn't say either, it's an older Briggs so I'm not sure if it's an I/C...probably not....definitely not a Powerbuilt.

Thanks for the link to the short block, unfortunately that's a tapered shaft engine but it's surely a great price.

 
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10-19-15, 03:39 PM   #15  
Go to the link posted in #4, "Home- Small engine Warehouse", maybe you might find something. Have a good one. Geo

 
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10-19-15, 03:47 PM   #16  
I did check out the link, however I didn't want to put an Intek in this machine....I would overhaul mine before that.

What limits my options is I need a flush mounting surface, no protrusions including the fuel tank or muffler.

 
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10-19-15, 07:03 PM   #17  
Ok pwr all you have to do is take the head off. Then put a magnet inside the cylinder. If it sticks then you have a cast iron bore.

Did it smoke from the muffler when it was running ??

 
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10-19-15, 07:53 PM   #18  
I'll pull the head this weekend and check it out. I would speculate it's possibly iron since it runs perfect, always starts on 1st or 2nd pull, never smokes, runs real strong so with the amount of time it's been used that would be alot of wear on an aluminum cyl.

The knock is pretty bad, acts like a crankpin and not a wrist pin or piston slap.

I will rebuild it but I want to make it like new if it's an iron liner, or see if I could sleeve it if not.....would be nice to have it in new condition, paint and everything.

I went with the Robin since I will need another motor soon anyway so it won't be a loss if it doesn't work.

 
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10-19-15, 08:34 PM   #19  
Have you tried to run the engine without the gear box on ??

 
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10-20-15, 06:18 AM   #20  
Have you tried to run the engine without the gear box on ??
In terms or listening for a knock? No but the impeller and housing are tight. The knock is definitely in the rod, I'm 99% sure. Quiet at startup, then gets noisy over the next few minutes...then real bad when hot.

 
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10-21-15, 01:34 PM   #21  
The engine arrived and I checked the fit of the housing.......perfect fit.

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10-21-15, 03:55 PM   #22  
Is that a LCT engine Or a Predator ? Kind of looks like a honda clone

 
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10-21-15, 04:53 PM   #23  
This is definitely no clone, it's a Subaru Robin EX engine, made in Japan. They have been building these longer than Honda and I prefer these engines mainly because of the dealer support you get.

It's really a wash, Stihl vs. Husky....Robin EX or Honda GX, both phenomenal engines.

 
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