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Craftsman pressure washer...


vikasintl's Avatar
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11-21-15, 08:34 PM   #1  
Craftsman pressure washer...

I have a craftsman gas pressure washer 2gpm 4hp 1750 psi

It takes so many tires to start....I changed spark plug ...clean air filter really good....new gas....

It takes too many tries....and just randomly starts .......(even though am not doing anything different) .....than runs well but once I shut off ....same thing again...

also, when I turn of faucet there is a constant water leak from under the engine but it does not affect anything once its started...
Can any one advise on what to do?

 
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11-22-15, 04:32 AM   #2  
A pic of where it's leaking could be helpful.
Often holding the trigger open on the wand will make them easier to start.


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11-22-15, 05:10 AM   #3  
As Marksr says. Also is your gas new? Use a carb cleaner and see if that helps.

 
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11-22-15, 09:49 AM   #4  
I think I would take a look at the choke to make sure it's closing for a cold start.

 
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11-22-15, 12:34 PM   #5  
How do I make sure if choke is good and if something is wrong...how can I fix it?
and where do I use carb cleaner?

 
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11-22-15, 01:09 PM   #6  
Post the engine manufacturer model numbers so we can determine what carb you have and how to clean it. Have a good one. Geo

 
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11-22-15, 01:33 PM   #7  
egnine is Brigs and stratton model no. is 10A902-0233-01

and here is the pic of choke or fuel lever...am not sure

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Jh...M=w975-h731-no


Last edited by vikasintl; 11-22-15 at 01:58 PM.
 
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11-22-15, 04:54 PM   #8  
vikasinti.... we cannot see your picture. You'd have to set it to public.... not private.

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html


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11-22-15, 09:36 PM   #9  
I don't think you have choke on that model. I love those little engines they hard to kill.

When you have pressure on the unit does the pump leak or where the hose attaches ?

Maybe your pump is cracked due to a freeze ?

5 bucks for that model will get you a carb diaphram and gasket. While your at it clean the tank out good and put fresh gas. Then you should be good to go ~!~!

 
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11-22-15, 10:49 PM   #10  
Right....no choke. There doesn't appear to be much of anything replaceable on that carburetor.

10A902-0233-01 - Briggs & Stratton Engine/Carburetor/Diagram and Parts List


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11-23-15, 03:49 AM   #11  
It doesn't have the butterfly plate but it has a choke system on it. It appears it would have a type of autochoke to start, then the intake vacuum would close it as the engine went up through the rpm range.

Since it's hard to start, but runs OK, the choke is where I would look. The diaphragm may need replaced or the circuit could be plugged.

 
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11-23-15, 11:59 AM   #12  
You need to install a new diaphram kit, it is Briggs part # 795083 or old # 495770 also Lowe's has a kit #5083 which has the same parts.
Here we go:

Remove air cleaner, there are 2 bolts that hold things together, one on the front of the tank 3/8" and one into the block 1/2", remove these bolts, now "slowly" slide the carb/tank off the intake tube and breather tube, now tilt the tank in to release the throttle linkage and waalaa the carb/tank is removed. Check the intake tube to see if the O ring seal and plastic retainer are still on the intake tube, if so remove them and re-install them into the carb. Remove the 5 screws from the carb/tank remove carb(don't loose the spring) now spray all holes, cracks and crevases in both the carb and tank surface with brake parts cleaner, remove the main screen(looks like a thimble), now with a small screwdriver pry out the main jet(carefully) and clean it, check the O ring on the main jet for damage, if it is damaged it must be replaced, reinstall the jet, it can be difficult some times to get it to snap back in place(I use the rounded end of a screwdriver handle). Remove and clean the fuel pickup stem(not necessary if the fuel tank was clean). Clean any junk/rust from the tank. Install the diaphram on the tank then the gasket(no goo or sealer) now carefully replace the carb(the spring will try to misalign the diaphram), tighten all screws a little at a time so as not to crimp the diaphram until they are all tight. Install the carb/tank in reverse order and you are done. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will correct me. Have a good one. Geo

 
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11-23-15, 03:21 PM   #13  
Your carb does not have a choke system it has a primer bulb. Geo gave you the right the part number 795083. As for the jet I myself don't mess with those unless the carb is REALLY bad. Usually the carb cleaner I use takes care of that.

Clean the tank part where the carb goes in and let dry. Please don't get any carb cleaner on any gasket or diaphram parts.

Let us know how it comes out !!!

The Lowes kit I am not familiar with I order 10 packs of kits from my wholesaler ~!~!

 
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11-23-15, 03:58 PM   #14  
What is part # 390 for that model engine?

 
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11-23-15, 04:45 PM   #15  
it's that little spring for the diaphram to pulse. That;s why it's called a pulse carb. Those carbs or the best ones the older ones back in the 70's were good but they gave me fits ~!~!

 
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11-23-15, 05:32 PM   #16  
Yep, but there is some reason it's listed as a "spring-choke diaphragm". Where does the choke fit in?

In the earlier motorcycle carbs the choke plate wasn't a butterfly, but a slide inside the throttle slide with two cables entering the top of the carb tower - one for the throttle and one for the choke. The British Amals were like that and a number of others.

The Mikuni, though, in those years only had the throttle slide and the choke wasn't a plate or butterfly in the main throat but a circuit along side of the throat. The circuit was controlled by a lever on the outside of the carb. You simply flipped it up or down for choking. Looking down the carb throat all you would see was the throttle slide.

The description of that part makes me wonder if that type of choke circuit isn't being used on that carburetor and the diaphragm plays a part in the circuit.

 
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11-23-15, 07:24 PM   #17  
Must be something from the auto chokes that are thermostatically controlled. Those are the only ones that show up on a search for that type of thing.

 
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11-23-15, 09:07 PM   #18  
I can't get into the thermo thing about the carb, but I can tell you that on those carbs you don't need a choke when you have a primer bulb. I don't know about all those motorcycles. I raced Hondas and a few 2 stroke models in my dirt bike days.

Some model Briggs do have a primer bulb and a choke lever, but those are bowl type carbs. I have a few of those.

Actually they are called pulsa jet carbs. The primer shoots the gas straight in the intake so you don't need to have a choke. 1 pull starts in most cases ~!~!

 
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11-24-15, 03:48 AM   #19  
I don't know what that would be. Must work or they wouldn't do it.

 
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11-24-15, 09:34 AM   #20  
There is no choke on this model carb. Some older ones did. I don't know why they call it a choke diaphragm spring except for the fact that the older ones did have a choke and this may be the same part used on those diaphragms as well.


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11-24-15, 10:34 AM   #21  
That must be the case. I did find a diaphragm for that type of carb with a choke linkage. Apparently it's either a pull off or a complete on/off for a choke plate. That would work to use the closed position as a default, then come off when the engine started and supplied the pressure to the diaphragm.

Makes sense it's a cross application for the same spring.

 
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