Toro Powerlite dumping fuel


  #1  
Old 12-01-15, 08:39 AM
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Toro Powerlite dumping fuel

A neighbor brought over a Toro Snowthrower Model 38182 Ser # 25003905

It would not run without spraying staring fluid (to start AND keep running). the usual fix for this is to take off the float bowl and clean out the varnish, re seal etc and fire away, but not this time. When I put it back to together, new gaskets, and bowl O ring. I had to tip it up to re attach the cover, and I had fuel leaking from somewhere behind the carburetor. I think it is coming from a small tube that looks like a small hose barb, but the only hose near there is the one attached to the primer bulb, and that is attached to another hose barb that is larger and above where this one comes out. I cannot see this hose barb on the parts diagram on Toro's web site and just wonder if this is some type of overflow that is part of the design? Any clues here would be helpful!!
 
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Old 12-02-15, 05:56 AM
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Possibilities, depending which way you tipped it would be:

Leaking out into the carb throat, then out the end. That would have a lot of ways to get from the bowl up and out.
On the outside on the left side is the primer fitting. That is air only, coming from the primer bulb. It just pumps air into the bowl and forces gas into the carb throat.
On the right side is the inlet fitting for the gas line.
Also on the right upper side is a small air bleed hole. Gas may get to the outside through that hole. I have never done that, but it's a possibility.

That's all I can think of.
 
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Old 12-19-15, 04:50 PM
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Toro Powerlite dumping fuel

I took the carb back off and re-sealed everything carefully, and stopped the leak problem. Now nobody wants to answer my post about the governor spring assembly and attachment. It runs at idle but seems slow to me. I'm just not sure that I put the governor spring tab back in the right place.
 
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Old 12-20-15, 09:28 AM
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The idle speed is normally set with a throttle stop adjustment screw. The way the throttle acts throughout the load range is controlled by the governor which would rely on the governor spring.

I can't get the file upload to work on this website. Send me your email address in a PM and I'll send you a pic of the carb spring. It looks like the same carb as the one I have.
 
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Old 12-21-15, 09:37 AM
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Toro Powerlite dumping fuel

My Email is lockewml@bex.net. (I looked in vain for an idle adjustment screw, so it is either missing or something else.) It runs great if I manually move the butterfly valve to kick up the rpm. Thanks for your help!
 
  #6  
Old 12-21-15, 02:27 PM
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I see what you have now in terms of the carb. I found another carb for that model on Ebay. It doesn't have an idle- throttle stop on it and no idle mixture screw on the side anyway.

Have you tried adjusting the main jet screw under the float bowl. Cutting the fuel at idle will kick the rpms up a little. There would have to be a balance between that and load so turn it clockwise just a little at a time until the idle straightens out for you.

I'll see if I can find a schematic of that throttle llinkage. Maybe someone else will shed some light on it.
 
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Old 12-21-15, 03:01 PM
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That governor is just an air vane job. That would have a linkage and the spring without many holes to choose from. That doesn't have a throttle control on the handle does it? If not it would be pretty much fixed rpms with just the vain and the spring controlling the throttle plate. From there the only mixture adjustment is the main jet screw under the float bowl.

Try the main jet mixture screw. If you start getting surging you'll have go back out with the mixture screw.
 
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Old 12-21-15, 03:12 PM
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Toro powerlite dumping fuel

I looked again, but I did not see a main jet adjusting screw on or under the float bowl. I figure that the main jet is the whole assembly that holds the bowl to the carb from the bottom. This assembly has two very small holes in it feeding into a tiny hole going vertically into the internal venturi of the carb. No adjustment that I can see..
 
  #9  
Old 12-21-15, 04:34 PM
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It looks like that's all you have to work with on that one. There are some holes in the bowl fixing nut that have to be clear for fuel to enter the main jet, but the mixture through that jet is pretty well fixed.

On a two stroke you might check the exhaust to make sure it's clear. The tuning and rpms coming from that depend a lot on the exhaust - even more so than a 4 stroke.

Once everything is clean and tight it just comes down to the linkage to the air vane and the spring tension on the throttle.

There are some things on the throttle plate you could do, but that blower is apparently a direct drive that spins the auger at all rpms. I saw a review on it that considered it a safety risk and not a good purchase.
 
 

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