MTD 8/26 Snow thrower tune up


Old 12-29-15, 05:31 PM
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MTD 8/26 Snow thrower tune up

My father in law got this machine last year used, and I heard complaints. I got to see it for myself today. It's an 8hp motor and I think the 26 means it's 26". I did not realize I should look for a rating plate with a better model. This is the closest I could find from MTD

Anyway, I am pretty sure it may just need a good tune up. It starts fine with the electric plug in start. He said the pull cord doesn't work but I did not try it. I noticed some oil or something brown on the snow sometimes. It may get be coming out of the gear box for the auger. The auger often stops but I can see the shaft spinning, my guess in the shear bolts are gone. Any place I should look to find new ones?

The one thing I am confused on is how the bottom wear or scraper plate attaches. All the bottom bolts are gone, but if I used carriage bolts I think the auger will hit the nuts. The manual I found does not have any pictures of that or say what the bolts are. I am already buying all new bolts for the skid shoes since the one I tried to remove snapped off.

If I can get the skid plate and auger going right, I think I will run some sea foam in the gas and go through the maintenance suggested in the manual.

Any other suggestions? I read elsewhere the carburetor might need a good cleaning too... How would I know?

Anyone has a similar machine and can post some pictures of how the skid plate should attach?
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Old 12-29-15, 07:16 PM
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If you can get correct model number, there are lots of sites with exploded diagrams. or are decent places to order parts online; one of them will have the shear pins, but again, you will need correct model number.

On every snow blower I've owned, the scraper mounts with carriage bolts with the rounded head on the inside of the housing and the nuts on the outside. The nuts general come pretty close to scraping the ground, especially if you don't have the skids set so the scraper is at least 1/8 inch off the ground. I always replace them with stainless steel because they rust quickly otherwise.

If the engine starts, runs smoothly, and doesn't bog down under load, the carb is doing fine.

Good luck!
Old 12-29-15, 08:04 PM
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Ok thanks. I found some videos online about adjusting the skid shoes and saw how the carriage bolts go on the scraper. Looks like most of these old 2 stage blowers are relatively built the same. The way the thing is now that would never work, but I think it is just so mangled there is the problem. Going to take some beating with a mallet to get it straightened out again.

I was able to find the shear bolts for all MTD machines made before 2004 sold at the local Menards for like $5 so after I verify they are missing I will pick those up.

Hopefully the previous owner did not put regular bolts in there and destroy the gear box. I am hoping they are just both broken off and the shaft is so dry that the auger spins until it hits resistance.

Going to need lots of grease for this old thing.
Old 12-30-15, 05:17 AM
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With the machine NOT RUNNING grab the auger sections and see if you can turn them on the shaft..
If not then the gears in the auger gear box are likely stripped.

Previous post on this.

Old 12-30-15, 06:56 AM
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Thanks for the info and link to the other thread.

With that new info I am not so optimistic... I am going to go check it out after work today and get the actual model # if the rating plate can be found and read still. If the gears are shot it might not be worth fixing, this thing has seen many years of neglect.
Old 12-30-15, 04:01 PM
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So I am pretty sure something bad is going on in the gear box. The shear bolts seem to be fully in tact, could be regular bolts for all I know. I CAN turn the auger by hand with some force but if I only turn one side, the other side moves with it. Which tells me the entire shaft is spinning. The main worm drive shaft does not move, so the gears are slipping. Something still partially works because if there is nothing in the auger it moves when you pull the handle, but once you hit heavy snow it stops.

Model 313-640F000
SN 1L212B40193

Found some parts diagrams online and it seems this thing was made in 1993. Last two of the serial number might be a year also.

I have never been in the market for snow blowers so not sure if the value. Honest opinion is it worth even trying to fix this thing if I have to drop $100 on it and possibly two half days of work (disassemble, order parts, wait, reassemble)????

Found out the person that bought it paid $175 for it as-is and I think they got taken. The auger has never worked right.

The skid shoes are totally worn down also, and possibly the skid plate also. Seems like it could be a good machine with some maintenance and new bolts. Engine runs decent still and everything else at least functions.
Old 12-30-15, 05:08 PM
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Are those skid shoes the kind that can be flipped upside down and mounted on the opposite side, right to left, for a total of four (4) wear positions ?

If you ever get back to focusing on the engine, I wanted to say that the only problem I've had with that Tecumseh Carburetor is a surging while NOT under load, and the cause was always a clogged air jet, AKA the Idle Restricter Screw, whose 3 orifices can easily be cleaned (once you find them).
Old 12-30-15, 05:15 PM
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No those skid shoes look like only on the bottom do they flare out. And the flared out part is about 95% gone. They are pretty much just flat plates at this point. Guessing everything on it is original from 22 years ago. From what I could see on the bottom of the auger housing one of the bolt holes for the scraper is gone too (the metal is worn back all the way to the hole).

On the plus side, after some more looking and reading it sounds like the first gear to go would be the brass one which is less expensive (about $25). If I can get by with that and some new carriage bolts for the time being I would consider that a win. If the thing still runs next year maybe I would invest in the skid shoes and scraper.

Now comes the joy of taking the entire thing apart so I can inspect the inside of the gear box. Hoping I can pop the cover off for a look without total disassembly like in the linked thread.

Once I get all the ice and snow cleaned off the bottom I will take some horrific pictures of the skid shoes and housing.

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