Briggs/Stratton mower question
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 167
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Briggs/Stratton mower question
Model 10H902
Type 0333 E2
Code 06042552
It was running bad so I changed plug, washed out foam air filter, checked oil and cleaned/gapped points and cleaned circular magnets. Runs better, but still has a little miss.
And has new gas.
Do I need to pull and clean the carb.? Or is there a good spray cleaner I can run though it to help out? Worried my inexperience with small engines = making problem worse.
Thax
Type 0333 E2
Code 06042552
It was running bad so I changed plug, washed out foam air filter, checked oil and cleaned/gapped points and cleaned circular magnets. Runs better, but still has a little miss.
And has new gas.
Do I need to pull and clean the carb.? Or is there a good spray cleaner I can run though it to help out? Worried my inexperience with small engines = making problem worse.
Thax

#2
Member
Most common small engine issues have to do with fuel.
Carb. needs to be removed and cleaned with carb. cleaner.
Using old fuel, leaving fuel in the system during the off season, using ethanol fuel are the main causes for issues.
Carb. needs to be removed and cleaned with carb. cleaner.
Using old fuel, leaving fuel in the system during the off season, using ethanol fuel are the main causes for issues.
#3
Usually the diaphragm in the carb is the problem with these when they run poorly. It's very easy to change.
#4
Member
The carb. could certainly be the problem. But I notice you didn't mention the fuel filter. I'd start there, even if the carb. ends up being the issue.
#6
My usual post:
You need to install a new diaphram kit, it is Briggs part # 795083 or old # 495770 also Lowe's has a kit #5083 which has the same parts.
Here we go:
Remove air cleaner, there are 2 bolts that hold things together, one on the front of the tank 3/8" and one into the block 1/2", remove these bolts, now "slowly" slide the carb/tank off the intake tube and breather tube, now tilt the tank in to release the throttle linkage and waalaa the carb/tank is removed. Check the intake tube to see if the “O” ring seal and plastic retainer are still on the intake tube, if so remove them and re-install them into the carb. Remove the 5 screws from the carb/tank remove carb(don't loose the spring) now spray all holes, cracks and crevases in both the carb and tank surface with brake parts cleaner, remove the main screen(looks like a thimble), now with a small screwdriver pry out the main jet(carefully) and clean it, check the “O” ring on the main jet for damage, if it is damaged it must be replaced, reinstall the jet, it can be difficult some times to get it to snap back in place(I use the rounded end of a screwdriver handle). Remove and clean the fuel pickup stem(not necessary if the fuel tank was clean). Clean any junk/rust from the tank. Install the diaphram on the tank then the gasket(no goo or sealer) now carefully replace the carb(the spring will try to misalign the diaphram), tighten all screws a little at a time so as not to crimp the diaphram until they are all tight. Install the carb/tank in reverse order and you are done. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will correct me. Have a good one. Geo
You need to install a new diaphram kit, it is Briggs part # 795083 or old # 495770 also Lowe's has a kit #5083 which has the same parts.
Here we go:
Remove air cleaner, there are 2 bolts that hold things together, one on the front of the tank 3/8" and one into the block 1/2", remove these bolts, now "slowly" slide the carb/tank off the intake tube and breather tube, now tilt the tank in to release the throttle linkage and waalaa the carb/tank is removed. Check the intake tube to see if the “O” ring seal and plastic retainer are still on the intake tube, if so remove them and re-install them into the carb. Remove the 5 screws from the carb/tank remove carb(don't loose the spring) now spray all holes, cracks and crevases in both the carb and tank surface with brake parts cleaner, remove the main screen(looks like a thimble), now with a small screwdriver pry out the main jet(carefully) and clean it, check the “O” ring on the main jet for damage, if it is damaged it must be replaced, reinstall the jet, it can be difficult some times to get it to snap back in place(I use the rounded end of a screwdriver handle). Remove and clean the fuel pickup stem(not necessary if the fuel tank was clean). Clean any junk/rust from the tank. Install the diaphram on the tank then the gasket(no goo or sealer) now carefully replace the carb(the spring will try to misalign the diaphram), tighten all screws a little at a time so as not to crimp the diaphram until they are all tight. Install the carb/tank in reverse order and you are done. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will correct me. Have a good one. Geo
#8
Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 198
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
There are 2 screens/filters attached to the carb assembly on those carbs. 3 bux for a kit/diaphram and gasket is a good thing !!!
The most easiest ones on a briggs except for the bowl nut jets ~!~~!
The most easiest ones on a briggs except for the bowl nut jets ~!~~!
#9
'There are 2 screens/filters attached to the carb assembly on those carbs."
Yes, but that is part of the carb, not a "fuel filter" in the sense that you can check that without messing with the carb as Tony P implied. You know that.
Yes, but that is part of the carb, not a "fuel filter" in the sense that you can check that without messing with the carb as Tony P implied. You know that.