Removing impeller weldment from Craftsman chipper

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  #1  
Old 06-16-16, 09:54 AM
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Removing impeller weldment from Craftsman chipper

Craftsman chipper model Model 247.776350
Engine: 121A12 0323 E1

Oil is in the blade section, so something's not right. Took it apart, but can't figure out how to get the "impeller weldment" off. Does this thing just slide on, and is rusted so won't move, or is there a bolt somewhere I missed? Does it take a special puller?
Thanks for your help and info.
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  #2  
Old 06-16-16, 10:48 AM
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You obviously removed the bolt that runs right through the hub into the motor shaft; I believe that's the only fastener.

You could spray around the shaft with penetrating oil and try whacking it a bit toward the engine to break it loose.

Sometimes there are two threaded holes in the plate. If you screw two bolts through them and tighten them alternately it will push it off the shaft.

Good luck!
 
  #3  
Old 06-16-16, 05:01 PM
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I removed the 3 bolts that hold the blade on. There are no threaded holes in this thing. I tried Blaster, alot of banging with a hammer, and some light persuading with a pry bar and it's not coming off. And I can't find a new assembly to compare it to to make sure there's not one more bolt that needs to come off. If this thing just slides on the motor shaft, it's rusted on there good. And there isn't a direct path to shoot penetrant.


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  #4  
Old 06-16-16, 05:24 PM
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From the Sears technical area.....

Start the lock nut on the shaft and fill it 3/4 full of thread. Put a pry bar behind the impeller and pry out fairly hard. Hit the nut with a hammer sharply. The impeller will pop loose on the engine shaft.
 
  #5  
Old 06-16-16, 07:35 PM
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That's what you gotta do when they are on a conular shaft. That set up is so the impeller will tighten itself against the torque of the motor.
 
  #6  
Old 06-17-16, 10:23 AM
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Continuing on with this chipper thread (if OK with moderator).

1) PJmax/marbobj: Thanks! I used prybar and my wife got some therapy. Took a few whacks, but it came off. Pic of cone-shaped shaft.
2) The motor shaft didn't have a key. Is there supposed to be one?
3) PJmax: how can I access that Sears technical area?
4) There are four flailers, but only one had the clip around the roll pin for that flailer. Does only one supposed to have a clip, or did the other three fly off? The roll pins are in there good, so I'd rather not buy 3 clips and 3 pins unless I have to.
5) When I acquired this chipper several years ago, I couldn't get it started. So I took it to a motor shop and after a few tugs, it started up for him. But he said it ran "wide open" and thought there might be something wrong with the engine flywheel governor. With the chipper torn down as it is, what do I have to take off to get to that flywheel?

That's it. I can't see where the engine is leaking oil, so I'm going to haul it outside on the ground and start it up, and see what happens.

I appreciate your help. I like the good quality replies.

regards,
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  #7  
Old 06-17-16, 10:47 AM
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They all had clips at one time.
 
  #8  
Old 06-17-16, 10:48 AM
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When you have abrupt stops you're better off without a key. When you see a key on a flywheel it's to set the timing and is always a shear type to let the flywheel slip if need be. The conular/tapered design lets the engine spin the shaft against the retaining bolt to keep it tight. Usually that bolt has reverse threads against engine rotation.

When you stick that thing together make sure the shaft and the inside of the impeller sleeve is perfectly clean of oil/lubricant. Use a carb cleaner or acetone on them. The friction between them lets it work.
 

Last edited by marbobj; 06-17-16 at 12:12 PM.
  #9  
Old 06-17-16, 11:06 PM
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That was the only info in the technical area..... how to remove the impeller.
It was in response to a question.
 
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