Cub Cadet hydrogear transaxle
#1
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Cub Cadet hydrogear transaxle
I have a hydrogear 618-04270b trans axle I need to know what type of oil or fluid is used in these units? cub cadet LGT1054 losing power on hills when it gets warm.
#2
If it is serviceable, 20W50 motor oil.
I can check tomorrow and give you more detail, but if it is serviceable, there should be a 1/4" hex cap screw on top of the unit. Some cases you may need to remove the unit to service it. If the oil reeks or smells like sewer, it should be drained and refilled, then will need to be purged.
Make sure the fan is still in good shape, and all grass and debris is cleaned off the unit before servicing.
I can check tomorrow and give you more detail, but if it is serviceable, there should be a 1/4" hex cap screw on top of the unit. Some cases you may need to remove the unit to service it. If the oil reeks or smells like sewer, it should be drained and refilled, then will need to be purged.
Make sure the fan is still in good shape, and all grass and debris is cleaned off the unit before servicing.
#3
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Far more likely it's the belt slipping or the the pivot point of the idler pulley needs grease.
Newer machines have a sealed transaxle and the fluid can not be changed.
Newer machines have a sealed transaxle and the fluid can not be changed.
#5
There is a recall on some of those models...read this bulletin to see if you unit is with in the affected models.
https://www.cubcadet.com/wcsstore/Ma..._March2012.pdf
https://www.cubcadet.com/wcsstore/Ma..._March2012.pdf
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my cub cadet has a new belt and pivot is fine. It doesn't lose power til after 15 or 20 minutes of cutting. the trans axle has a fill plug on top,and is full of oil.
#8
Is the fan intact? Is the transmission covered with dirt and grass clippings? There are cooling fins on the transmission that get caked up with grass and then the unit can't cool properly. Also if the belt is glazed it will loose power.
#9
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I had one with the transmission that has the speed range control and the forward reverse pedal, not hydrostatic, but forward / reverse wet clutches. If that's what you've got, be sure to keep the F - R pedal depressed fully all the time. I used to "feather" the pedal if I wanted to slow down, and eventually wore the forward clutch. The symptom was that it wouldn't climb hills in the higher gear ranges.
Wear on the F - R pedal linkages also contributes. Once I figured out what I was doing wrong, I was able to continue to use it. Just had to keep the F - R pedal firmly pressed, and use the speed range control -as it was designed. Not sure if that helps
Good luck, Steve
Wear on the F - R pedal linkages also contributes. Once I figured out what I was doing wrong, I was able to continue to use it. Just had to keep the F - R pedal firmly pressed, and use the speed range control -as it was designed. Not sure if that helps
Good luck, Steve
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The fan is good transmission is clean and I have a new belt,I think if the belt was slipping it would do it all the time, right? I am going to change the oil and internal filter what do you think?
#11
The belt can slip or grab depending on heat buildup, so a belt problem doesn't necessarily show up all the time.
If you've eliminated the belt from the list of potential problems, I'd say the oil change is probably the next step.
If you've eliminated the belt from the list of potential problems, I'd say the oil change is probably the next step.