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All Power 10000W Generator


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02-16-17, 07:55 PM   #1  
All Power 10000W Generator

I have determined the oil level switch is bad. Oil has been changed and is at the correct level. I can unplug the switch and it runs and gens.
I can find no manuals or service support other than a displayed IPL, on this other than a distributor in North Carolina who contacted us for a warranty claim as this is a brand new unit from a local big box store. Correspondence has been via email only, even though I provided my contact phone and can not source or been provided with one for them, I requested service manuals as well as tech support as this switch is internal to the engine and requires seperating the gen from the engine which is not routine..............how fast should I run?


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02-16-17, 08:31 PM   #2  
how fast should I run?
Run from what.... buying it or servicing it ?


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02-16-17, 11:31 PM   #3  
I turn the no-name chinese stuff away. It's hard to get info and parts for and liable to break again before you get it out the door.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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02-17-17, 03:55 AM   #4  
I am helping a co worker with a 10k watt Allpower and was able to get a manual with correct part numbers from the distributor.

I have the info at work and will get it later. today.
The problem I was having is the manuals I could find online were suppose to be for my model but the part numbers were not correct.

Here is one manual but it may not be right.
Can you post the model and s/n.......the model will start with APG.


GregH.........HVAC/R Tech

 
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02-17-17, 05:50 AM   #5  
Thanks GregH, that is the same manual I found on the distributors web site JDNA out of North Carolina IIRC, page/figure 35 shows the oil switch. By know means is this any type of assembly drawing or service manual that would aid in determining how the thing comes apart.
If it did not require separating the generator from the crankshaft, I would have no problem opening the sump to replace the switch. Since this is a big box store that my store owner does a lot of business with his construction company, they are however, also a competitor.
If I can't at least have phone contact with someone, I think I am leaning toward declining doing the service.
Thanks for the replies.


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02-17-17, 08:20 AM   #6  
I picked up a hit on that replacement oil level switch as it's used in several different units.
It appears Steele SP-GG750E has the same type engine.

I found this in my travels from the Steele tech info.....
Before replacing this item, please check the Oil Sensor CDI. If your engine is not starting, remove the yellow wire from the oil sensor to the CDI, and try to start it again. If it starts you need to replace the external Oil Sensor CDI (not the internal oil sensor). Do not run the engine without the CDI for any length of time, as it cannot shutdown the engine if there is a problem with the oil pressure, which could result in damage to the engine.

If you do need a new sensor, it may also be advisable to replace the Oil Sensor CDI too. When Oil Sensors malfunction it often damages the CDI at the same time.


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02-17-17, 11:19 AM   #7  
Hmmm thanks PJ, I will have a look after lunch but I am not sure this is the same...I checked the internal switch and it has continuity to ground with fresh full oil.


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02-17-17, 07:00 PM   #8  
I checked the unit and it does appear to have a CDI however, the wire from the internal switch is yellow and about 8" out is a bullet connector. I unplug that the unit runs and gens. The yellow wire to ground is a dead short so.............
I did pull the cover off the end of the gen, and while the hole appears to be threaded, I am not sure not what size thread. The threads are very course and ruff, much like the stem of a puller...but..........what threads?
I have seen but never done either, a couple of ways to seperate the gen from the crank.
One way and the best IMO: Remove the long bolt that holds the gen to the crank (tapered shaft in most cases as far as I know but with no support..???) get or fab a rod smaller in Diameter than the bolt that will fit inside the threads of the bolt, fab it just shorter as to be able to thread a bolt in to the end of the gen using the rod as a puller.

The other way I have seen on youtube and heard of is using a dead blow hammer on the rotor. The wiring shop I worked in at AA, we did rebuild and even rewind stators for our starters and gens and such, and hammers were a no no where permanent magnets are concerned.

If anyone comes up with something more, I am more than happy to consider it, actually due to your replies, I have not made the call yet (I did finally get an 888 phone number) and I am going to let it brew till Monday



I just tried this on another generator powered by a Yamaha, the crank goes roundy round ok but the piston does not move. I got the head off and can make the piston move so not seized but no idea if rod, rod cap etc. Open the oil fill, you can see nothing but bare aluminum and some shrapnel.


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02-17-17, 09:51 PM   #9  
I usually take the case off and give the rotor a sharp sideways blow with a deadblow or a hunk of 4x4 post. This generator has permanent magnets? Even if it does, the rotor shouldn't.


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Last edited by cheese; 02-18-17 at 01:31 PM.
 
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02-18-17, 05:12 AM   #10  
Hello BFHFixit


To remove a generator rotor from the engine crankshaft, just loosen the thru bolt. Remove the recoil assembly to gain access to the flywheel nut/bolt, set the correct size socket on the nut/bolt then smack the socket with your favorite BFH (not dead blow hammer).

The rotor WILL jump off the crank, that's why you want the thru bolt just loosened, so the rotor doesn't hit the floor or work bench and cause damage.

This process also works on flywheel removal without magnet damage, just loosen the flywheel retainer and smack the PTO end of the crankshaft, this is alot faster than jig'n up pullers......

Good Luck

31

 
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02-18-17, 02:29 PM   #11  
Hmmm, well I won't mind tellin ya how stupid I will feel if it falls off that easy, but certainly am going to give it a shot.
Thx Tech

For the flywheel I usually just get a crowbar under the flywheel with some pressure and smack the shaft I know that works great.


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02-19-17, 03:43 AM   #12  
Don't feel stupid BFHFixit, just chalk it up as a learn'n experience....

I use to do the crowbar thing until I broke the magnets loose on a Kohler flywheel (glued in), I've been using the PTO end since, that moves the initial blunt shock away from the flywheel thus no magnet issues.....


31

 
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02-19-17, 07:19 PM   #13  
Roger that will let you know how it goes


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02-23-17, 04:45 PM   #14  
Hopefully I am done running laps on this one. I didn't have any luck with your method tech so I went back to the distributor looking for support. She was all ready to order and send me parts with me telling her I aint going any further till you find a tech to tell me how they do it, or service manual. She emails me a phone # says call here and ask for the tech. So I's call, push the buttons, wait some more then get a person, tell I need to talk to a tech about such n such unit....silence............uhmmmm I am trying to uhmm we have no techs here this is a national call center...
She asks what area I am in, tell her, more pause.........what town are you near.....this goes on for a bit and she gives me a # for a place 60 miles or so...I call and get "O'reilys auto parts

Emailed her my experience said I can not proceed without the above. She had been jolly on the ball with reply but been couple days now so


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02-24-17, 09:22 AM   #15  
Hello BFHFixit,

Sounds like you need a bigger hammer, I've popped hundreds of rotors loose with this method. The laws of physics prove this works, I've posted this all over the net and your the first to say it didn't work.

Try it again my friend and see if you can't get it loose, don't be afraid to smack the crap out of it......


31

 
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03-02-17, 06:38 PM   #16  
Well Tech I aint sceered of much and this was no different, I gave it all my buck and a quarter frame had with a 3 lber. Never heard back from the warranty support so I aint messin with it otherwise. I do have another gen Yamaha powered....Rigid? I think. It has busted internals and the piston don't move although the crank spins and cam rolls the valves.

I did however get to try your method on a go-cart with a OHH65 tecumseh on it. Being all the frame around the engine not able to get much of a swing but didn't take much of one either and indeed the sheer key....sheered.

The physics haven't quite sifted through my filter of logic yet, but I trust and know it does work


Just needs a bigger hammer
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