Engine oil seal and speed governor fixing

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  #1  
Old 04-20-17, 11:23 AM
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Engine oil seal and speed governor fixing

Hello!

I have a Craftsman Chipper Model 247.776350 with a 121A12 0323 E1 041130 FD B&S engine.

The oil seal leaks on it, so I have to replace that, and the last time it was at a motor shop, the tech said that it runs wide open like the governor is broken.

1) Any tips for removal and install of the oil seal?
2) Also, since it is apart so much, I'd like to take a look at the governor, but I don't know where it is or how to get to it. Can anyone help there?

Regards,
leaning
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  #2  
Old 04-20-17, 03:45 PM
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As far as the wide open: Are you able to throttle it down with the throttle lever?

The oil seal can be changed with out removing the the sump cover, just takes a bit more care...So I would eliminate other possibilities for the running wide open:
Is the butter fly valve operating?
Is the linkage correct, un obstructed and un damaged?
Is the intake sealed?
What does the spark plug look like?
 
  #3  
Old 04-20-17, 06:03 PM
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Iit looks like that engine belongs on a chipper/schreder, it would act as the flywheel. Your governor most likely doesn't have a problem it is just not at home without the other stuff. Have a good one. Geo
 
  #4  
Old 04-20-17, 06:29 PM
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Here is the Briggs site showing your engine and a pic of the governor. Cost is $13.90 + shipping and taxes.
Replaced one a few years back. Not a bad job. You most likely will need the cover gasket also.
The governor is a fly-weight type and will come apart at high rpm. Teen boy hung throttle on mine and governor came apart.

https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/u...23E1/57110002B

Keep crank/cam timing aligned.

RR
 
  #5  
Old 04-20-17, 07:49 PM
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I agree with verifying governor failure before taking it apart. It's not a big deal if you do open it, but I normally replace those seals without opening the engine up. Much faster.
 
  #6  
Old 04-20-17, 08:54 PM
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All:

1) Oil seal: Oil was splattering out as it ran and it was smoking like crazy. I took all the chipper stuff off and ran the motor for a few seconds and saw the oil coming off the shaft, plus the seal itself has some obvious bad spots. This definitely needs to be fixed. (Piece 20)

2) Overspeeding: This is a might-as-well-fix while I have it broke down. Everything was together (engine + blades) when the chipper was overspeeding. I could lower the speed with the butterfly valve on the carburetor, but if I let it go, it would run and shake like crazy. Initially, I bought it used, but I couldn't get it cranked. So, I took it to a local shop, and he cranked it on the first pull (groan). But he also said it ran faster than it was supposed to, and it would run throttling with the carburetor until I decided if I wanted to put the time/energy/money into investigating the governor.

RR: Piece 219 is the governor gear which I'm guessing is the broken part. How do you get to that? Remove the crankcase cover (Piece 18), and then the gasket you suggested is piece 12, and then that governor gear should be obvious?

I appreciate everyone's input. Thanks!

leaning
 
  #7  
Old 04-21-17, 10:51 AM
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Yes, the governor will be very obvious and visible when you get the cover off.
 
  #8  
Old 04-21-17, 12:48 PM
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If it's "shaking like crazy", it just may be that the heavy chipper blades which also serve as the flywheel, are out of balance (or have debris stuck to them) ?
 
  #9  
Old 04-26-17, 12:58 AM
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I was hoping I could just replace the oil seal but from what you have stated, it is a job for an experienced technician because of the necessary adjustments. I guess you are sure about that rod that projects from the crankcase ?

Another question, is seems it only leaks oil when sitting, is that possible it leaks out only if the oil is slightly overfilled ?
 
  #10  
Old 05-01-17, 03:48 PM
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OK. More pictures.

1) I got the cover of today. Took the bolts off and a few light taps with a hammer. If I understand this, the engine gears turn and turn that black gear on the cover. The black gear turns the tan one, also on the cover. As the tan gear turns faster, the gear weights are thrown outward which causes that center rod to stick out more and push in on that paddle in the engine that I am pointing at. The paddle is linked to the carburetor butterfly valve to throttle down air entry.

2) From me looking at the governor (the tan gear), all the teeth are there and it looks fine to me. Does anyone see anything busted there?

3) There are some spots on the cover gasket that look rough, so I have to replace that gasket. Does that use adhesive or does it self-stick or what?

4) The oil seal itself is all beat up. I just tap that out, freeze the new one, install the cover, and tap in the new one. Any oil or grease go on that, or is out-of-the-box and frozen OK?

This is a side project, but even if it gets 20 minutes a day, it's still moving, so thanks for everyone's help.

Regards,
leaning

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  #11  
Old 05-01-17, 06:12 PM
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You've got it right on theory of operation. I still don't think you have a governor problem. Since the cover is off, I'd put the new seal in before putting the new cover on.Just be sure to twist it and watch that it goes on properly when you put the cover back on. I have never had to freeze one to put it in.
 
  #12  
Old 05-02-17, 05:52 AM
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Liberal amounts of fresh engine oil on the shaft and seal and as cheese said, just make sure the lip does not fold up on you.
Briggs has there own sealant that they recommend, at least on twins. I use a thin smooth layer of high temp red sealant on both surfaces, then sandwich the gasket.
 
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