Is It The Battery 2135 Cub Cadet CHS13 Kohler

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  #41  
Old 07-09-17, 10:33 AM
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Arrow No Power

Wellsir ... it could be that plug is bad. I believe the wires going into it come from the fuses. I'm getting 12v on the clip that looks fried ...and its not constant some times I touch the clip and I get nothing. The clip that holds the black wire should show 12v because that's the reading I'm getting at the fuse. I'm not getting any reading and I should by just touching the clip.
Where can I look to get this plug replaced?
 
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  #42  
Old 07-09-17, 11:14 AM
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I don't know if the problem is in that harness plug, or the Ignition Switch . . . . or the component at the other end of that particular lead; but something's not right.

Here's a Partstree schematic for your machine's dashboard, ignition and engine controls, you can navigate around and examine what the engineered connections were for the Cub Cadet 2135:

https://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-...-and-switches/

I don't know if Partstree is the very best place to purchase the necessary parts, but they've got a good interactive schematic and clearly identify the Part Numbers for the components which you may find need replacement.

I often use their schematic to obtain good Part Numbers . . . . and then go shopping.

It may be that you just need a thorough cleaning of the electrical connections ?
 

Last edited by Vermont; 07-09-17 at 02:06 PM. Reason: Fixed Link referenced earlier !
  #43  
Old 07-09-17, 12:48 PM
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Arrow NO Link

I don't see the link ... am I missing something? I should be getting a reading from that red wire at the clip shouldn't I? I used some electrical contact cleaner on the plug and switch, but I'm still not getting any reading from the plug with the red wire...
 
  #44  
Old 07-09-17, 12:52 PM
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There's your culprit. You have a loose terminal in the connector and it's arcing, creating heat and melting the connector housing. You can clip each wire and then connect it to the corresponding terminal on the switch, but I don't recommend that because if they get mixed up, it can be tough to figure out what wire goes where. I would go to a small engine shop and ask them to cut that connector off of a junk mower (they are the same for lots of mowers, not just your model) and then use butt connectors to connect the new one to your wires. Just cut one wire at a time and splice it to the new connector so that you don't get the wires mixed up... chances are the wires on the new connector will not be the same colors and in the same places as your old one.
 
  #45  
Old 07-09-17, 01:49 PM
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I just went back and added the link that I neglected to paste earlier.

Sorry . . . . I guess I got distracted bleeding my brakes.
 
  #46  
Old 07-09-17, 01:59 PM
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Arrow Still no go

I removed the clips from the module and hooked them up to the ignition switch. I tag the wires and made a diagram of where each one goes on the terminals ... still no go.:NO NO NO:

Do you know how I can remove the ignition switch to test it? I'm not seeing how ... do I remove the plate diagram on the switch where the key goes?

Vermont ... there is a problem loading the page on my end ...how about yours?
 
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  #47  
Old 07-09-17, 02:08 PM
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I redid the Link, and it seems to be working now . . . . sometimes, they won't allow you to follow; but Partstree seems to encourage visitors.
 
  #48  
Old 07-09-17, 03:08 PM
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Arrow Thanks for the link

Thank alot for that. What's the change of the ignition switch being bad? Not sure how to get to the nut. Does the decal cover over the ignition come off by pulling it?
 
  #49  
Old 07-09-17, 04:36 PM
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The only ignition switch that I'm familiar with are held in by a thin hexagonal nut threaded onto the switch surrounding the key slot. Unscrew the thin nut and the ignition switch should be loose, save for the wiring harness plugged into its rear. Your switch has such a thin retaining nut also . . . . it shows as Part #10 on the schematic that I linked.

Yours may be more modern than what I know about, so I can't contribute much here.

I hope you'll be able to repair your harness as Cheese suggests; the prices I saw on Partstree far exceed my expectations.
 

Last edited by Vermont; 07-09-17 at 04:51 PM. Reason: Added comment about retention nut in RED
  #50  
Old 07-09-17, 06:38 PM
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Thumbs up It's Running Again ... Don't know why

Wellsir ... I was watching this video about electrical troubleshooting and I went out to see if I could hear the PTO trying to engage. I was going to see if I could get some volt reading.

Wellsir ... it started ... so I thought okay this again ... so I sat on the seat and pull the PTO switch and it came on I didn't question it. I just started cutting the grass and hoped it would last long enough. The PTO disengaged 4 different times, but each time I was able to push in the switch in pull it back out and the PTO would engage.

Thankfully it lasted long enough to get the grass cut. I just bought myself some more time to figure out exactly what is the problem. Now the pressure is off a bit ... I bought myself a week to 10 days to figure out the problem.

I ran out of daylight ... so I will see if it will start again tomorrow and we will take it from there.
 
  #51  
Old 07-10-17, 03:54 PM
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Arrow Ran Okay Again

Wellsir ... the tractor ran again today and I cut some more grass ... didn't have any problems with the PTO ... the question is WHY? Why is it running? When I cleaned the terminals on the ignition switch and the clips on the wires it would not start.:NO NO NO:

The question is why did it start later and why is it running now? I was only going to check to see if I could hear the PTO click or make any kind of sound when I tried to engage it as I saw in a video.

Something made me turn the key to start and it did, so I'm not sure what the deal is. Cheese stated the plug was the culprit, and it would seems so, but it bothers me that is didn't start right after following his suggestion.

Do you guys think I should replace the ignition switch?
 
  #52  
Old 07-12-17, 09:01 AM
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Thumbs up Found Service Manual Online

Wellsir ... I guess no one has an opinion on whether or not to replace the ignition switch.

Another poster found my service manual for my tractor and I want to post it in case someone with my tractor can use it. There are other tractors in the manual too ... just with different amounts of HP.

https://data2.manualslib.com/pdf5/10...d42fcf0dce8805

This will be a big help if my connection problem returns. I now have the schematic for the wiring.
 
  #53  
Old 07-12-17, 10:46 AM
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Has this mower been idle a lot or have you used it regularly?
 
  #54  
Old 07-12-17, 02:46 PM
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Arrow Used Frequently

Oh yes ... It is all I have to cut over 2 acres. I'm very much at a lost without it.
While we were working on this problem my grass was getting taller ... I can not stand tall crab grass ... nor does the city I live in. I used the push mower to cut the front before I could get the rider going again. That was only a couple of hours ... but the back :NO NO NO:
 
  #55  
Old 07-12-17, 04:26 PM
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I see. I asked because sometimes connectors can get corroded when idle.

In terms of your problem, since it seems to be a little erratic, I wouldn't replace the switch just yet. But I would go through all the connections you can find, including those on the back of the switch and remove, clean, and replace them one at a time. Use a scrubbing pad or a small file to brighten them up a little.

When you have those done, remove the negative cable from the battery. Then turn the ignition switch all the way left to right to stop. Do that about ten times, then hook the cable back.

Also remove the seat switch, clean the terminals and push the plunger completely in/out a number of times.

See if this doesn't help.
 
  #56  
Old 07-12-17, 05:21 PM
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With an intermittent problem in wiring, I generally do best finding it by going through and wiggling different things, one at a time, while trying the mower so that when I hit the problem area, it will show up. Small centralized things, one connector or wire at a time. When you get the right one, the problem will probably show up. After messing with the switch and connections, you got it working, so the problem is related to something you wiggled or moved. It could be a broken wire that is no visibly broken... usually this happens close to the connector where heat or corrosion got down into the wire insulation. Wiggle the wires at the switch and see if you can get the problem to reoccur.
 
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