Sears tractor engine dies when blades disengaged
#41
There should be a notch, lip or small opening on the edge of the welch plug that you can stick the tube that will come with the can of cleaner in. There should be no need to remove it. The main jet will go up the center of the carb into the throat, you should be able to spray through it and see it come out in the carb throat.
#42
geo we have not found that a carb or fuel issue is the problem causing the original issue.
I realize it is getting lengthy and even a bit of chasing our own tail since we seemed to have a rich condition and now surging, which would be a lean condition.
Also search engines will find matching text from posts within a thread and there are far enough threads on carb problems.....
IMO the prime objective is to find a solution for the OP and I am having no problem keeping up with the info and actually prefer to have all in one thread...largely to point out such contradictions.
I realize it is getting lengthy and even a bit of chasing our own tail since we seemed to have a rich condition and now surging, which would be a lean condition.
Also search engines will find matching text from posts within a thread and there are far enough threads on carb problems.....
IMO the prime objective is to find a solution for the OP and I am having no problem keeping up with the info and actually prefer to have all in one thread...largely to point out such contradictions.
#43
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I have removed, cleaned, and re-installed the carb. Is it possible to re-connect the wire at the bottom of the solenoid backwards? When I pulled the wire clip off the bottom of the solenoid, I noticed one side of the male end clip was rounded and the other side square. So I thought it would only go back together one way. When I was ready to re-attach the wire, I saw that the female end of the clip is square on both sides and that I could actually plug the male end in one way or rotate it 90 degrees and have it also fit that way. Does it matter which way I attach it or is it just a matter of completing the circuit?
Not sure I ever found the welch plug, but I sprayed carb cleaner into every opening I found.
Thanks for the help,
Jim
Not sure I ever found the welch plug, but I sprayed carb cleaner into every opening I found.
Thanks for the help,
Jim
#45
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Okay, I have gotten it running, but it doesn't sound right and stalls often. Is it possible to upload a video or audio file so you can hear it run? I was never sure I had answered correctly in the earlier question regarding whether it was surging.
#47
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I think I have finally figured out the YouTube thing. Link below.
What's going on now is the tractor starts well, but doesn't sound normal. Runs for about 15 minutes, but then stalls. Usually restarts, but stalls after about 5 or 10 minutes. This continues until the time between stalls gets very short. Then it won't restart until it has sit for a half hour or so.
Is this what you call surging?
https://youtu.be/K3uzuPRifC4
Jim
What's going on now is the tractor starts well, but doesn't sound normal. Runs for about 15 minutes, but then stalls. Usually restarts, but stalls after about 5 or 10 minutes. This continues until the time between stalls gets very short. Then it won't restart until it has sit for a half hour or so.
Is this what you call surging?
https://youtu.be/K3uzuPRifC4
Jim
#48
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It may help to run the engine through a few stalls, then pull the spark plug and post the pic.
#50
Is this what you call surging?
https://youtu.be/K3uzuPRifC4
https://youtu.be/K3uzuPRifC4
From what you explain and the sound, I bet 45 bux on a coil is worth trying.
#51
That's a carburetor problem. Remove the bowl remove the white plastic piece with the float. Make sure the jet in the bottom of the stem in that piece is clean and the hole is completely clear and large as it should be. Next, there is a tiny hole in the top in the carb where the rubber gasket makes a circular shape. There is a little brass insert in there with a hair pin hole. I usually use a tiny wire like one plucked from a wire brush and twist and push until it goes through that hole. That is usually the place there the clog is that causes this problem you're having.
#52
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Cheese said:
"Next, there is a tiny hole in the top in the carb where the rubber gasket makes a circular shape."
Cheese, I'm seeing five holes that fit this description. Please see the image I uploaded and tell me which numbered hole you meant.
Also, from the looks of the gasket, the first time I put the carb back together it seems the gasket must have been mis-aligned and been damaged. If the carb hasn't been leaking, is the gasket okay?
Thanks
"Next, there is a tiny hole in the top in the carb where the rubber gasket makes a circular shape."
Cheese, I'm seeing five holes that fit this description. Please see the image I uploaded and tell me which numbered hole you meant.
Also, from the looks of the gasket, the first time I put the carb back together it seems the gasket must have been mis-aligned and been damaged. If the carb hasn't been leaking, is the gasket okay?
Thanks
#53
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After I removed the carb, I drained the remaining gas from the carb into a pink plastic hospital pan. There is quite a bit of dirt/sediment in the pan. See image. The pan was clean before I dumped the gas out of the carb. Is this from the damaged gasket? Is it dirt getting past the fuel line filter?
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
#55
No, your gasket is shot. Looks like it's been running ethanol fuel too, the gasket looks gummy. There is also a o-ring on the white plastic part that needs to be changed too, it comes with the bowl gasket kit.
The tiny jet I'm describing is in hole # 4. It is recessed in there... there is a big hole there but inside it goes to a smaller tiny hole. That's the source of the problem most of the time in my experience.
HArd to tell where the dirt is coming from. Could be bits of deteriorated gasket or trash from the filter (briggs uses a screen filter that allows tiny trash to pass). Also ethanol can react with moisture in the bowl and cause corrosion in the carb... usually that is white.
The tiny jet I'm describing is in hole # 4. It is recessed in there... there is a big hole there but inside it goes to a smaller tiny hole. That's the source of the problem most of the time in my experience.
HArd to tell where the dirt is coming from. Could be bits of deteriorated gasket or trash from the filter (briggs uses a screen filter that allows tiny trash to pass). Also ethanol can react with moisture in the bowl and cause corrosion in the carb... usually that is white.
#56
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Even before your reply, I had started looking online for the gasket and/or the gasket kit. I'm using the part number from my owners manual, but the gaskets I;m seeing online are not even close to looking correct. My old gasket is very complex. The gasket I find online (with the matching part number) is simply a ring with nothing on the interior.
I was suspicious of my owner manual part number because the drawing in it doesn't match completely. It shows a bowl with just a plug at the bottom, but no solenoid. However, there is a solenoid shown in the drawing off to the side.
How do I find the correct gasket or gasket kit if my owners manual doesn't have the correct part number?
I was suspicious of my owner manual part number because the drawing in it doesn't match completely. It shows a bowl with just a plug at the bottom, but no solenoid. However, there is a solenoid shown in the drawing off to the side.
How do I find the correct gasket or gasket kit if my owners manual doesn't have the correct part number?
#57
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I think I figured out the problem. Please tell me if I'm on the right path. I think I have a NIKKI carb even though my owners manual shows a Walbro carb. Is that correct? If so, I need gasket 137A , but which part is the "There is also a o-ring on the white plastic part that needs to be changed too".?
See link below:
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/ja...retor-overhaul
See link below:
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/ja...retor-overhaul
#58
Yes, your carb is a nikki. It should be embossed right on the side. 137A is the right kit, it shows the separate o-ring in the kit in the diagram.
#60
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I plucked a bristle from a wire brush and explored the #4 hole. I didn't detect any brass insert in that hole, but there is one in hole #2. After probing each hole, I shot carb cleaner through each and the cleaner came out elsewhere. Should I be good to go once the gasket arrives?
When I took the carb apart, the gasket stayed with the top of the carb and not the white piece. Am I correct that when I put the new gasket on I should have it on the white piece?
Thanks,
Jim
When I took the carb apart, the gasket stayed with the top of the carb and not the white piece. Am I correct that when I put the new gasket on I should have it on the white piece?
Thanks,
Jim
#61
Correct. Looking again, I believe #2 is where the insert should be. Hard to recall off the top of my head but if that's where it was, I'm sure that is the correct position.
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Cheese,
If carb cleaner sprays in one end of that opening with the brass insert and out the other end, is it sufficiently clean? Because there is a 90 degree turn, I can't get the bristle from the wire brush to make the turn.
Thanks,
Jim
If carb cleaner sprays in one end of that opening with the brass insert and out the other end, is it sufficiently clean? Because there is a 90 degree turn, I can't get the bristle from the wire brush to make the turn.
Thanks,
Jim
#63
It should be fine. It's a very tiny hole and if you're getting much to pass through it, then it's probably okay. There's a slim chance that the wire is too small and not scraping all of the crud out of the jet but usually poking a wire through it is all that is required to open it.
#64
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The gasket finally arrived and I was installing it in the carb and a tiny part (brass I think) fell out. I don't know what it is or where it came from. Could someone please tell me where it belongs? See attached images. If you need other views of the carb, I can do that. This part hadn't fallen out any of the other three times I had the carb apart and I don't recall seeing it before.
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks,
Jim
#65
It goes down the center hole in the plastic piece. O-ring side goes in first. It's the main jet.
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Hurray! It worked. Once I got the main jet back in place and everything put back together, the tractor started right up. The engine sounded back to normal and I used the tractor for most of an hour without it stalling.
Thank you, thank you, thank you to cheese, BFHFixit, and everyone else that helped.
Jim
Thank you, thank you, thank you to cheese, BFHFixit, and everyone else that helped.
Jim