Tractor: front axle/steering problem
#1
10-03-17, 06:33 AM
Tractor: front axle/steering problem
Something's obviously wrong with my older Snapper LT-200 right front wheel or front axle (photo).
2 questions:
1) How can I transport across my large yard so I can get it jacked up?
2) Guesses about what is likely the problem?
2 questions:
1) How can I transport across my large yard so I can get it jacked up?
2) Guesses about what is likely the problem?
#2
10-03-17, 07:08 AM
Member
Broken or disconnected steering linkage.
Insert two-wheeled cart/dolly under front end and move. You will need a helper to push.
Insert two-wheeled cart/dolly under front end and move. You will need a helper to push.
#4
10-03-17, 11:28 AM
Group Moderator
I'd be out there on a tarp on my back checking it out. If you're lucky....something just came un-attached and is easily fixable on the spot.
#5
10-03-17, 11:56 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
If it has a center link that goes from one wheel to the other, it is likely bent badly. Many AYP mowers have this bar and this is what happens when it gets bent. I'm not sure if yours has it or not but I suspect so after looking at the pic.
#6
10-03-17, 01:18 PM
I'm guessing that the Ball Joint for the right front wheel failed and the ball popped out of its socket (or joint).
Probably just a $5 to $7 dollar part, and since you probably have four (4) of them on that rig, it's worthwhile to keep a spare on hand. You steer with the Steering Drag Link (which usually has 2) and then one at each end of the Tie Rod . . . . where they may also be called Tie Rod Ends, for a total of 4.
You might be able to temporarily put the ball back in its socket and hold it in position with clothes hanger wire to get yourself back to the garage..
I recently bought a small jeweler's ball peen hammer just to peen over the socket on some of my ball joints; but most of them now have a neoprene grommet which makes this technique near to impossible.
Probably just a $5 to $7 dollar part, and since you probably have four (4) of them on that rig, it's worthwhile to keep a spare on hand. You steer with the Steering Drag Link (which usually has 2) and then one at each end of the Tie Rod . . . . where they may also be called Tie Rod Ends, for a total of 4.
You might be able to temporarily put the ball back in its socket and hold it in position with clothes hanger wire to get yourself back to the garage..
I recently bought a small jeweler's ball peen hammer just to peen over the socket on some of my ball joints; but most of them now have a neoprene grommet which makes this technique near to impossible.
#7
10-03-17, 05:42 PM
I'll check it out as soon as I have a chance. Been raining a lot since the incident.
Thanks for the recommendations - and optimistic cost estimates!
What is AYP?
Thanks for the recommendations - and optimistic cost estimates!
What is AYP?
#8
10-03-17, 07:05 PM
Group Moderator
AYP = American Yard Products
They manufacturer for companies like Craftsman, Poulan, Pro, Sears, Rally, Roper and many others.
They manufacturer for companies like Craftsman, Poulan, Pro, Sears, Rally, Roper and many others.
#9
10-04-17, 04:52 PM
I'm noticing when I enter part #s from my parts diagram for various components (out of sheer $$ curiosity, still haven't looked under the tractor), I don't get Snapper. At PartsTree I get Simplicity; at eReplacementParts I get Murray or Craftsman. All with the same part #. But not Snapper.
I guess these parts are all the same, no difference among these part for different tractor brands?
I guess these parts are all the same, no difference among these part for different tractor brands?
Last edited by suobs; 10-04-17 at 05:31 PM.
#10
10-04-17, 08:21 PM
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I may be mistaken but I think Briggs now has rights to Snapper...at any rate try this site https://www.snapper.com/na/en_us/support/manuals.html
I don't think AYP, which is now and always was Husqvarna makes your unit. Husqvarna owns poulan, polulan pro and several others, Craftsman has started selling more MTD products which IMO are inferior. Craftsman products with model number beginning with 917 are Husqvarna/AYP those beginning with 247. are MTD.
I don't think AYP, which is now and always was Husqvarna makes your unit. Husqvarna owns poulan, polulan pro and several others, Craftsman has started selling more MTD products which IMO are inferior. Craftsman products with model number beginning with 917 are Husqvarna/AYP those beginning with 247. are MTD.
#11
10-04-17, 10:05 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
No, I'm not saying it was built by AYP. It was not. Just saying that This is what happens when the link is bent on mowers that have the steering set up this way, like AYP mowers. I think the mower in question is one of the murray snappers and I don't remember how the steering is on it.
#12
10-04-17, 10:45 PM
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I agree cheese, but I don't think this has the drag link you are thinking of. I think it only has the two steering links from the sector gear,more like the Sabre by JD and Cub's, if so then something has come loose as mentioned or totally bent/broken which means replacing parts most likely.
Even the newer Husqvarna have gone to the two steering links verses the one steering/drag link. And there is no adjustment for toe any more.
Even the newer Husqvarna have gone to the two steering links verses the one steering/drag link. And there is no adjustment for toe any more.
#13
10-05-17, 02:36 AM
BFHFixit
try this site https://www.snapper.com/na/en_us/support/manuals.html
try this site https://www.snapper.com/na/en_us/support/manuals.html
I don't have any major concern about it except to wonder why. Just curiosity at this point. I could always resolve the problem by ordering any parts I need from my local Snapper dealer.
Last edited by suobs; 10-05-17 at 02:52 AM.
#14
10-07-17, 12:17 PM
OK, so the problem is the tie rod is bent (first photo).
Parts diagram excerpt in second photo. From the diagram it looks like it's supposed to be totally flat so I'll try to straighten it and meanwhile order a replacement since it's only $15.
A question is whether something else is wrong that caused this to happen. Not seeing anything obvious but would appreciate your thoughts. Let me know if photos would help.
Another question: when I search on the part # I get an early and late version for the same part:
0130 1728080A 1 TIE ROD, Flat (Early Version)
0130 1751964 1 TIE ROD, Flat (Late Version)
Parts diagram excerpt in second photo. From the diagram it looks like it's supposed to be totally flat so I'll try to straighten it and meanwhile order a replacement since it's only $15.
A question is whether something else is wrong that caused this to happen. Not seeing anything obvious but would appreciate your thoughts. Let me know if photos would help.
Another question: when I search on the part # I get an early and late version for the same part:
0130 1728080A 1 TIE ROD, Flat (Early Version)
0130 1751964 1 TIE ROD, Flat (Late Version)
#15
10-07-17, 12:24 PM
10-03-17, 03:18 PM #6 (permalink)
Vermont
I'm guessing that the Ball Joint for the right front wheel failed and the ball popped out of its socket (or joint).
Vermont
I'm guessing that the Ball Joint for the right front wheel failed and the ball popped out of its socket (or joint).
#16
10-07-17, 08:08 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
That's the part I was saying would cause your problem. Just straighten it out and put it back on, you'll be fine.
#17
10-08-17, 03:11 AM
Yesterday, 10:08 PM #16 (permalink)
cheese
That's the part I was saying would cause your problem. Just straighten it out and put it back on, you'll be fine.
cheese
That's the part I was saying would cause your problem. Just straighten it out and put it back on, you'll be fine.
Aha, you called it a center link. Bent it back real good and will reinstall tomorrow. Do you think I should consider it a temporary fix and order a new one?
What causes this to happen?
#18
10-08-17, 07:00 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
You should be good to go unless you hit something again. Order one for a spare.If you can turn around so bend is forward. even after straightened there will be a slight bend in it.
#19
10-08-17, 10:28 AM
I'm glad I said I was "guessing" when referred to Ball Joints because I didn't realize Snapper had gone to a stamped sheet metal Tie Rod like this (but still called a "rod"), with very limited opportunity for lubricating the friction points.
I have owned some high quality Snapper Products in the past; but I can see now that was a really long, long time ago !
Sorry for the confusion.
I have owned some high quality Snapper Products in the past; but I can see now that was a really long, long time ago !
Sorry for the confusion.
#20
10-08-17, 11:11 AM
Today, 12:28 PM #19 (permalink)
Vermont
I didn't realize Snapper had gone to a stamped sheet metal Tie Rod like this (but still called a "rod"), with very limited opportunity for lubricating the friction points.
Vermont
I didn't realize Snapper had gone to a stamped sheet metal Tie Rod like this (but still called a "rod"), with very limited opportunity for lubricating the friction points.
I can't complain too much. At least it's easy to fix. Or at least I think so, we'll see what happens.
Another observation: a cheap part gave out before an expensive one got damaged like the wheel spindles.
pugsl
If you can turn around so bend is forward
If you can turn around so bend is forward
It actually bent in the up (flat) direction, not back. See diagram.
#21
10-08-17, 01:54 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Yeah, different companies use different names for similar parts and I am not familiar with snapper's terminology but in a vehicle, the center link goes from one side across to the other just like your bar. Also called a relay rod, it makes one wheel turn the same as the other when the steering wheel is turned.
