Hi all,

My neighbor recently purchased a new snow blower so I approached him about buying his old one from him, and we agreed on a price. I recently did an oil change and spark plug change, but the primer bulb is cracked. I've seen a hundred videos on YouTube about how to change it, but it seems to be in an inaccessible place compared to the ones like Troy Bilt, etc.

I've created a small photo album on imgur at: https://imgur.com/a/lPs7D

Basically, I understand I need to untighten a nut that's securing the existing, damaged bulb on there, and disconnect the primer line, and replace with the new one that I already have in my possession.

My problem is that I'm not sure how to do this as there seems to be a lot of things in the way, and all the videos I've seen have it readily accessible and open for an easy switch. I'm hesitant to start unscrewing cowlings etc because I'm worried that if I'm incorrect I won't be able to get it back together.

Thanks!

 

I just worked on a Troy Bilt with this same setup however, I did not remove the primer bulb so off top of my head not sure...sears site is not co-operating either....

If you can get the old one out even by destroying it, you might be better off then if your new one has two ears on it that just press in the hole you can just reattach the hose and insert the new one...

If you have to access the back side for a locking nut of some sort, it is a total PIA!

If you can add a pic of the new one, it might help.

 

Mine is an MTD (who I think makes the Troy Bilt and many Craftsmen) and I have a spare Primer Bulb here:

I think to remove the old one, I had to break the little tabs hiding behind the Bulb, as there was no way to squeeze them together for removal.

Then I had to use Needle Nose Pliers to capture the fuel line for inserting onto center (and only) nipple of the new Bulb.

This picture shows the little tabs that hold the Bulb on better; it's like permanently there until it cracks . . . . you don't get a 2nd chance.

 

The pic above is exactly what my replacement primer looks like. My concern is being able to attach the fuel line back to the primer after swap. I have no problem ripping the damaged one off including the black backing plate that it's attached to, but not entirely sure how to reconnect the line.

I suppose I can try the needle nose trick mentioned, and if not, get out my ratchet and start taking the cowling off to try to get to it.

 

Looking at your newly acquired machine . . . . it looks to be brand new !

Hard for me to believe that the Primer Bulb gave up the ghost when everything else looks neat and clean; but I see the crack in the red bulb, as if it were subjected to a lot of UV Light, or pushed in at an severe angle the few times it was used.

If your fuel lines are as young as the machine suggests, and shielded from the Sun, they should have remained pliable, and will readily seal when pushed unto the new Primer Bulb's nipple. If there's a little extra material, you can snip off ¼" or ½" to give it the barbs a new seat location. My 1st Primer Bulb lasted over 6 years, and the fuel lines remain pliable.

In what State or Province are you located ?

 

I’m in NJ. I’ll give it a try and have my ratchet on close standby

 

Alright @Vermont, I made the change. I did have an unexpected surprise, as there was a clip holding the line onto the back of the damaged bulb "housing" if you will.

https://imgur.com/a/YYSLl

Pic 1: Surprise!
Pic 2: Installed new bulb
Pic 3: New bulb was not "flush" because of clip, so I removed the clip. Seems to be on there pretty good.
Pic 4: Noticed some gasoline dripped onto driveway after priming and test-starting. It started right away, which was great, using the rope pull and not using the electric start. I'm not sure if I primed it too much and it drained out the carburetor or if there's something else going on with it. Once it was running, I let it idle for about 5 minutes, and I saw no further drippage.

I'm new to the carburetor stuff - my mower has only one setting. What's the choke function do, how should I use it, and what speed should I run the throttle at when I'm actually using it to move snow? (I have a rabbit, a turtle, and a stop graphic on the throttle. These are pretty self explanatory, but I don't know what the Choke does and what position it should be at.)

Thanks!

Edit: Found this on youtube, seems to be a good explanation of Choke.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHfJf8tS--U

 

It sounds like your neighbor did not give you an Owners Manual with that "almost" new machine !

Post the Model Number and the Engine Number and I'll try to round up the appropriate tools.

Manuals and Parts Diagrams and Nomenclatures should be among your most valuable possessions . . . . even though many owners promptly dispose of them like a hot potato !

I don't konw what you paid for this unit; but even without the Manuals, you probably got a really good deal . . . . and he's happy (his loss is your gain).

 

It was a steal. $50. I couldn't say no. He did, in fact, give me the owner's manual in pristine condition - but - there's nothing in there about the Primer. I've read it a few times, and I see where it instructs on starting it, etc, but I've found that sometimes actual practice is slightly different from the manual's black and white text.

Thanks!

(For reference my model is the Craftsman Snow Blower 247.88955 - it runs great!)

 

Here's a link to the Partstree Website where your Craftsman Unit shows up as having been manufactured by MTD in 2008 (I thought it looked familiar):

https://www.partstree.com/parts/mtd/...er-2008-sears/

Each one of these machines is a little idiosyncratic; but The Owner's Manual should tell you to apply more choke for starting as a function of how cold it is outside, and very little (like none) if the engine has already been running and is "hot".

It's good to use the recoil start periodically just to make sure it's ready to perform if you ever really need it, like during power outages or when you run out of gas 500' away from the AC receptacle.

If you actually have snow to move, it should be run at FULL Throttle (RABBIT) and when just idling, it needn't be running any faster than the last palpable notch above the kill switch (OFF).

If that's a Tecumseh Engine (2008 may be among the last years they were produced), then you may find yourself cleaning the Idle Restrictor Screw if it begins surging when NOT under load.; but for now, you don't have anything to worry about until snow appears in Jersey . . . . I hope you get some in 2017-2018 to make your $50.00 worthwhile.

Meanwhile, if your Neighbor takes such good care of his equipment, I'll put in a bid right now to buy whatever he bought to replace this unit . . . . do you know what it is ?

 

The 247.xxxxxx model number indicates MTD manufactured, same as Troy bilt. It does look as though you can remove the old one destructively and should be able to capture the hose then reinstall the new one.
If you tear the rubber off you should be able to see the two locking ears and use a drill to drill them out just be careful when you punch through.

oooops NVM I see you got it

 

Your engine is a Chinese knock off wanna be Honda. The second pic you posted you can see the carb bowl under the shrouding. There is a drain plug and a bowl mount screw.
I would recommend only putting as much fuel in the tank as you plan on using, especially toward the end of the season. Since it has no fuel shutoff valve, you will want to drain the bowl of fuel for summer storage which also means draining the tank.

 

Thanks. So the drops of fuel on the ground I saw was a byproduct of the primer/carb?

 

I don't know in your case, but the one I just worked on when you pressed the primer gas/air would squirt out...I think it was because someone had been there prior to me and the carb was not sealed to the intake and the needle valve had failed so the housing and crankcase was full of gas....as I mentioned prior, they are a real PIA, POS IMO

 

That's funny.

Okay, I'll keep an eye on it then. Thanks.

What do you all use for a "clean out" tool if the augur gets stuck? Just the handle of a broom/rake etc, or do you actually have a special tool for it?

 

There's usually a Snow Removal Tool located on top of the Scoop; it would show as Item#18 on the PartsTree General Assembly Schematic that I gave you as link above. It's MTD Part # 931-2643

 

It looks like a small plastic fireplace shovel/scoop