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Carburetor ID


Geochurchi's Avatar
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12-15-17, 01:03 PM   #1  
Carburetor ID

Hi All, can anyone ID this carb,it has been painted over so I can't find any numbers, it also is not on the engine it was designed for.

Geo

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Last edited by Geochurchi; 12-15-17 at 01:51 PM. Reason: reoriented/enlarged/enhanced picture
 
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12-15-17, 01:52 PM   #2  
Thanks Pete...................................

 
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12-15-17, 02:10 PM   #3  
what are you working on exactly how old is it looks kinda like a zenith 267 but would probably try looking better for some numbers or name on it.

 
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12-15-17, 08:12 PM   #4  
It's an old Briggs and Stratton updraft carburetor. Looks like maybe the throttle hookup has been modified.
Might check these and see which one is the best match and use that info
https://www.google.com/search?biw=10...76.3239hY_Idug


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12-16-17, 05:28 AM   #5  
Thanks Cheese,I think I found it, it definetly has been modified this is setup on a Fairbanks Morse 1 1/2 HP stationary engine,everyone says it ran at one time,I am trying to figure out how to do the basic adjustment ,I pulled it apart and everything is clean inside.
Geo

 
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12-16-17, 11:50 AM   #6  
The adjustment under the carb is the high speed mixture screw. The one near the mounting flange is the low speed mixture screw. Normally best set at 1 1/2 to 2 turns out from lightly seated.


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12-16-17, 01:23 PM   #7  
Got it!! Thanks,I'll post a pic of the engine it's on at some point.
Geo

 
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12-20-17, 01:29 PM   #8  
HI All, any ideas how I can find a repair kit for this carb? Don't know what engine it came off of and I can't see any numbers on the carb itself, I have found pics of it online.
Geo

 
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12-20-17, 03:12 PM   #9  
The name flojet comes to mind.....kinda like what used to be on some old front tine tillers, 5HP horizontal...

If its the same that emulsion tube runs up at an angle to the top part of the body and has to come out before separating. Was really bad about galling the threads and not being able to get it out.


Just needs a bigger hammer
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12-20-17, 08:09 PM   #10  
Look at Briggs part number 291691 and see if that looks like the one you need. It's hard to judge the size of this carb from a picture, but it looks like the carb that would use this kit.

Like BFH said, the emulsion tube can be very hard to get out, or it may come out no problem. Use a straight screwdriver that is as wide as possible without scraping the sides of the hole. Be sure it's straight sided, not tapered like most screwdrivers. Make sure the tip of the screwdriver is in perfect condition, regrind it if necessary, and put the carb in a vise so that you can put a lot of pressure on the screwdriver to keep it engaged. Spray PBlaster in the hole liberally. It may try to shave the brass slot off the jet so that it can't be removed. If you get any hint of this happening, stop. Get an impact driver (the kind of screwdriver that you hit with a hammer and it turns when you hit it). I have also dripped acid into the hole to clean out corrosion to allow the jet to come loose and unscrew. Don't let the acid stay too long or it will eat the threads out of the hole.


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01-10-18, 03:42 PM   #11  
Rebuild kit

Hi All, I received the suggested rebuild kit and everything looks the same except for the inlet needle valve is metal instead of plastic, and attachment is different, will this still work?

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01-10-18, 10:10 PM   #12  
Wish I could tell you, I haven't had to rebuild one of those in a long long time.


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01-11-18, 04:56 AM   #13  
After a closer look I noticed that the needle valve has a rubber ,or what ever, on the tip so it maybe alright I was worried about not having that grooved seal in the bottom of the the inlet,
Geo

 
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01-11-18, 11:44 AM   #14  
Carb rebuild

Hi All, anyone know if there should be a spring on this needle valve,seems to fit loosely, also I think this cork gasket is not needed as top gasket dose the same function.
Any thoughts?

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01-11-18, 03:27 PM   #15  
If you can get the model of the engine cheese used to find the part# you could see a breakdown.
I think one goes on each side the cork to the carb side...??? then the valve seals in the gaskets and provides resistance to hold adjustment....


Just needs a bigger hammer
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