old Bolens mower blades
#1
03-25-18, 12:18 PM
old Bolens mower blades
I have something around a 2000 Bolens 13058 riding mower at the cabin, for which I would like to find a new set of blades. It has two blades, the spindles are about 20" on center, and the blades that are on it now are 19-3/4 long, but I figured that if I could even find a set of 20" blades I could check the clearance between the tips and grind off 1/8"-1/4" off the tips if necessary to eliminate conflict. The blades are 2" wide where they fit the saddles on the bottoms of the spindles, and the center hole is 3/8" diameter. I have been to Tractor Supply and one of the local mower shops, to no avail so far. And I looked online at repairclinic.com and Jacks's, but both of them only show listings back to something like 2002 or 2003, and those later models all appear to have a star shaped center holes, plus, from what I can figure out reading between the lines anyway is that they are wider than 2". So I figured this might be a good place to ask for ideas, especially since I think anyway that a few of you guys are "in the business", and could point me in the right direction. Or, if you are indeed in the business, and want to sell me something, I'm fine with that, just message me. Thank you.
#2
03-25-18, 01:14 PM
Do you have just the one (1) 3/8" hole . . . . and the saddle comes down and wraps around the blade about 2" from the center on both sides, like this quill assembly would, if you can picture that:
#3
03-25-18, 01:22 PM
Hey, good job. Don't have the whole spindle out, but yes, that looks like what I have. The center hole is 3/8" and the measurement between the ears on the saddle is 2". Thank you Vermont.
#4
03-25-18, 01:50 PM
That's the kind of mounting I have on an old 1973 Mower that I keep running (not my only mower), and it takes blades that are only 1¾" wide, so I've taken to buying Blades that are 2" wide and then I grind ⅛" slots (four) in them to fit inside the ears, as you call them . . . . been doing it that way for nearly 30 years. I'm on my 3rd Engine, 2nd Transmission and 3rd Deck with that unit . . . . but Blades - I've got dozens of them!
Lately, I've been buying Gator Blades from Oregon (usually off of eBay), but I select the Part Number off of this site for the Blade that comes closest and then, regardless of where I buy them, I have a template for grinding the notches and trimming the corners as you described, and then balancing them, however long that takes.
Here's their WebSite;
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/Or...Blades/c/09_01
A 2" wide blade is pretty popular, regardless of how old your mower is; but if you need to go a bit wider than 2" to get the appropriate length, then you know what to do !
Lately, I've been buying Gator Blades from Oregon (usually off of eBay), but I select the Part Number off of this site for the Blade that comes closest and then, regardless of where I buy them, I have a template for grinding the notches and trimming the corners as you described, and then balancing them, however long that takes.
Here's their WebSite;
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/Or...Blades/c/09_01
A 2" wide blade is pretty popular, regardless of how old your mower is; but if you need to go a bit wider than 2" to get the appropriate length, then you know what to do !
Last edited by Vermont; 03-25-18 at 02:08 PM.
#5
03-25-18, 02:16 PM
Thank you very much! Forgot to mention that I had looked at the Oregon site too, but thinking that maybe my link was old or something like that because I was not seeing what I am now. Looks like there are plenty of options with the link that you gave me, so might take a little time to track down the best option, but it has a place to set certain criteria, so that should help nail it down. Thank you again. I really appreciate the help.
#6
03-25-18, 10:37 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Look at these and see if they look like what you had originally on this mower. It shouldn't be too hard to find the correct blades. I want to say these were the type on that model, with the round part setting between the notches in the saddle.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOMA-309070...kAAOSwrppas922
https://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Oregon-9...YAAOSwgQ9Vlvxw
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOMA-309070...kAAOSwrppas922
https://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Oregon-9...YAAOSwgQ9Vlvxw
#7
03-26-18, 02:46 AM
Thank you, Cheese. I actually came back to say that I ordered them from Amazon yesterday afternoon, after identifying them on the Oregon site. Still don't know what was happening when I first checked that site yesterday, before asking here, but only thing that makes sense to me anyway is that maybe because I was using a saved link that I hadn't used for a while it was going to an archived page or something like that. But the link that Vermont gave me let me sort one out in pretty short order. And Vermont mentioned ebay too, but I've never bought anything through them so still need to figure that one out. For instance, when I click on your links, it brings up a "safe money" page or something like that, and then, I don't know, but seems like someone told me at some point I had to pay to be a member or whatever before I could buy there. I don't know, so don't let me confuse anyone reading this, but guess that I need to ask one of the younger guys down the road or at church or on a job to explain ebay to me because looks like a likely place for some of these odditites. Anyway, I think I have a set of the right blades coming, but I do thank you Cheese. I appreciate it.
#8
03-26-18, 04:50 AM
I may have learned something here, or at least a myth may have been busted. I always understood that mower blades are balanced. My understand is that blades can become worn, bent or broken/chipped & cause the blade to become unbalanced & will cause a vibration, which will lead to other issues.
Vermont has stated that he has ground (grinded) down his blades to fit his mower. I would have assumed that grinding down the blades would have caused the blades to become unbalanced. Up until about 90's, we would always sharpen our own blades, but now some blades have twists in them for mulching (I assume) so I just started buying new blades each year. So, I guess maybe they aren't balanced...??? Anybody want to comment on this?
Vermont has stated that he has ground (grinded) down his blades to fit his mower. I would have assumed that grinding down the blades would have caused the blades to become unbalanced. Up until about 90's, we would always sharpen our own blades, but now some blades have twists in them for mulching (I assume) so I just started buying new blades each year. So, I guess maybe they aren't balanced...??? Anybody want to comment on this?
#9
03-26-18, 05:08 AM
I agree that they should be balanced, but I also understand what Vermont meant, taking some meat off of each side in order to fit, and don't see any reason that he can't achieve both. Say you have a 2-1/2" wide blade that needs to fit a 2" wide saddle or whatever the right term is, so after carefully measuring and marking, or as Vermont said he has done, made a template, you remove an equal amount from each side, Now obviously common sense prevails, and I know any number of people I would not suggest this to, but with some mechanical knowledge to prevent you from getting too carried away and indiscriminately grinding away too much material, I don't see any reason you couldn't end up with a balanced blade.
#10
03-26-18, 05:10 AM
I've always used an inexpensive device like this balancing cone in balancing my blades, or as I sharpen them:
Sometimes, they come off my grinder just perfect, even when I'm removing material; but I always double check.
Still, as a blade is used, it accumulates differing amounts of wet grass and mud, and though that is usually balanced itself . . . . not always. I think my blades get out of balance more due to the build up of crud than my sharpening, and I know I spend more time scraping this material off than I do actual sharpening.
Sometimes, they come off my grinder just perfect, even when I'm removing material; but I always double check.
Still, as a blade is used, it accumulates differing amounts of wet grass and mud, and though that is usually balanced itself . . . . not always. I think my blades get out of balance more due to the build up of crud than my sharpening, and I know I spend more time scraping this material off than I do actual sharpening.
Last edited by Vermont; 03-26-18 at 07:11 AM. Reason: Fixed Photo's URL
#11
03-26-18, 05:22 AM
I guess maybe I was taking the balancing thing too literal. I know I used to sharpen blades & I don't remember having vibration issues so, I am guessing if they're within reasonable measures, its obviously ok. Again, I guess I was just taking it too literally. obviously, they don't have to be "that" close.
#12
03-26-18, 07:03 AM
Originally Posted by Dixie2012
". . . I guess maybe I was taking the balancing thing too literal . . ."
Here's a decent video showing how some people use those balancing cones:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UBKmzeS96yk
I use a bench grinder myself . . . . but the principal is still the same.
This whole discussion about blades compels me to mention a word of caution: my Mechanic "Dan" just last year had an encounter with the blades on a Customer's machine . . . . "Butch's" Machine. He knew that Butch never sharpened his blades so he unbolted the blades and reached under the deck to wrestle the blades off of their spindles, neglecting to remember that often, the backside (non-cutting edge) may be as sharp or even sharper than the cutting edge, having been constantly sharpened to a feathered edge by passing chaff and blades of grass during the past mowing season.
In the darkness of the underside of the deck, the backside of one of Butch's supposedly dull blades easily sliced deep into Danny's palm, bleeding all over the place, and requiring 25 or 30 stitches . . . . almost severing his fingers. That's just something to think about, because with these old dull blades . . . . the longer the front edge has been neglected, the sharper the rear edge will have become !
Just something to think about . . . . just because it belongs to Butch who neglects his blades doesn't mean they're not dangerous.
Last edited by Vermont; 03-26-18 at 07:30 AM.
#13
03-26-18, 07:45 AM
I've been using a disk grinder to sharpen my blades for the past 5 or 6 years, and find it easier to hold the angle where I want it. But I'm also working on an another tool rest for my bench grinder, with a little more area and angle adjustment, and mower blades are one of the things that I'm anxious to see how it works on. As far as those jagged back edges of the blades, that's one of the things I hate worst about working on any of my power equipment. In fact I showed the old ones to my wife last night, just to point out how badly they wear and how wicked they can get. I usually fold a heavy piece of cardboard to slip over them and wear my heavy arc welding gloves. Probably looks ridiculous, but takes far less time than a trip to the emergency room.
#14
03-28-18, 04:50 PM
Received the new blades today, just finished installing and checking the clearance, and thought I'd pop back in to say thank you again guys. Perfect! These have a tad less sail than the set I took off, which I seem to recall had more than the originals, but in this case I'm happy with a little less because it's real sandy at the cabin, more often than not we get a dust bath when we mow, so I'm thinking a bit less lift should mean a little less dust to breath and maybe some less wear on the sails. Guess we'll have to wait and see though because measurable snow is back in the forecast so won't be using it for a bit yet. Thanks again.
