craftsman oil change
#1
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craftsman oil change
My stepson bought a small craftsman riding mower last year. I don't know the model number although it is black if that means anything. I need to change the oil and to keep from making an extra trip out there I asked him to look in the manual and tell me what type and how much oil it took. He emailed me stating it said 5w30 - is that correct? seems kind of thin for an air cooled engine. He also said it takes between 1-2 qts although I'm not all that concerned about knowing the amount, I just want to make sure I get the correct oil weight.
#2
All of my gas powered equipment including my Craftsman rider use 30 weight. This is the typical standard. But the newer mowers may have changed. I think it's good. Not to worry.
A higher viscosity oil, such as 10w30, will flow slower at low temperatures compared to a lower viscosity oil like 5w30. ... High viscosity oils, like 10w30, are thicker which creates more drag on the engine parts and reduces engine performance.
A higher viscosity oil, such as 10w30, will flow slower at low temperatures compared to a lower viscosity oil like 5w30. ... High viscosity oils, like 10w30, are thicker which creates more drag on the engine parts and reduces engine performance.
#3
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I understand how the various oils work, just concerned that maybe 5w30 is too thin .... and it wouldn't be the first time my non mechanically inclined stepson got something wrong. 30 weight is all I've ever used in small gas engines which is the main reason I'm questioning that oil weight.
#4
Because LawnMowers are typically used in warmer weather, I don't bother with a multi-weight oils which were designed for hard Winter starting, and stick with Straight 30 Weight . . . . or proceed to Straight 40 Weight as the engine ages.
Just the opposite logic applies with SnowBlowers . . . . but when equipped with an AC Electric Starter, thinner oil for starting is no longer an issue there either (unless I'm blowing snow while the power is out).
Just the opposite logic applies with SnowBlowers . . . . but when equipped with an AC Electric Starter, thinner oil for starting is no longer an issue there either (unless I'm blowing snow while the power is out).
#5
I thought that the 5w gave you the flexibility to use the appliance in variable temp conditions and still get the necessary lubricating abilities. If the weather temps change widely like in Spring then I think the 5W-30 should actually be the better choice.
#6
10W30 is pretty much the standard anymore. Actually 30W is getting hard to find. I don't doubt the manual would say 5W30 but likely has a chart for operating temperature ranges and includes other weights.
In TN personally I would use 10W30 and it should take just under 2qts.
In TN personally I would use 10W30 and it should take just under 2qts.
#7
Originally Posted by Norm201
". . . If the weather temps change widely like in Spring then I think the 5W-30 should actually be the better choice . . ."
I've yet to have a problem finding straight weight motor oil, 10, 20, 30, 40 or 50 . . . . but I won't be surprised if that market is diminished.
#8
I'd look harder for the model #, look it up on the internet and look at the manual with my own eyes. But either way, 5w30 performs the same at operating temperature as SAE 30. It's only 5w in cold temps, at startup, until it reaches operating temperature. At operating temperature it's 30 weight.
#9
10w-30 minimum, straight 30 recommended unless you're going to be using it regularly in 40 degrees or less.
#10
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I'll either go with 30 weight or 10w30 if they have it in synthetic. The reason behind this thread was to keep from driving out to my stepson's and getting all the info in person. Easier on me to just go out there when I'm ready to change the oil for hiim.
#11
when I'm ready to change the oil for hiim.
#13
Since most engines now have oil filtration and pumps, every thing newer than 2000 recommends 10W30. That is what they come with new. The smaller older non filtered engines are as cheese mentioned, better on straight 30W. Those are NON overhead Valve engines however.
Engines with a filter (oil pump) are better off on multi W oil. Regardless of the air Temp, the oil in the engine may well be below that. At lower temps and the dependence on the oil pump to get oil to the bearings, a lighter weight oil is needed on start up.
Some engine manufactures such as Kawasaki, recommend 10w40 since the EPA have things so lean, it helps in the cooling. On an air cooled engine, 30% of the cooling comes from the oil.
Engines with a filter (oil pump) are better off on multi W oil. Regardless of the air Temp, the oil in the engine may well be below that. At lower temps and the dependence on the oil pump to get oil to the bearings, a lighter weight oil is needed on start up.
Some engine manufactures such as Kawasaki, recommend 10w40 since the EPA have things so lean, it helps in the cooling. On an air cooled engine, 30% of the cooling comes from the oil.
#14
Just some more FYI. Engine oil does not get THICKER at temp, it becomes less viscous which means it resists flow through a specific orifice at different temperatures.
Try to pour 20W50 out at 20 degrees, then drain the same from an engine at operating temp. The resistance to flowing through an orifice at temp helps it stay on the surfaces longer better lubricating.
Try to pour 20W50 out at 20 degrees, then drain the same from an engine at operating temp. The resistance to flowing through an orifice at temp helps it stay on the surfaces longer better lubricating.