Good battery but dead motor

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  #41  
Old 05-20-18, 04:16 PM
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Geochurchi, no. Iím not getting voltage off the red wire regardless of where the key is. I do have continuity between B and S with the ignition in start.
 
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  #42  
Old 05-20-18, 04:26 PM
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B I the battery terminal on the switch, do you get 12VDC from B to negative post on the battery?
geo
 
  #43  
Old 05-20-18, 05:24 PM
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Hi, one other thought, I had a similar problem with a B&S , it would turn over and almost start , the problem was the oil safety switch.
Just a Thought !
Geo
 
  #44  
Old 05-20-18, 08:41 PM
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Geochurchi, no power at all at the switch. Would an oil switch keep it from starting?

I use use to be able to raise and lower the deck with the switch in run without the motor on. I canít even do that now.
 
  #45  
Old 05-20-18, 09:21 PM
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You do not have an oil switch and that would not keep the starting circuit from working, it would be tied in to grounding the mags.
That wiring diagram is a fail, sorry, dunno if printed if it would be better or not.
I would un hook the battery and start ohming wires. Starting with the B to the key switch. Unplug the PTO and make sure the brake is set and that switch is working.
Other option would be to start tracing the harness and look for something physical.
 
  #46  
Old 05-21-18, 05:15 AM
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I believe the oil safety switch on the B&S did ground out the coil hence it would not start ,but that is B&S, the electrical dia. Is hopeless, are there fuses in line with the wire connected to the B terminal? Got to have power there before any hope of starting.
Geo
 
  #47  
Old 05-21-18, 10:13 AM
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When testing the ohms at the clutch Iím getting .5 on the ground and no reading on the positive.
 
  #48  
Old 05-21-18, 11:36 AM
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Check the clutch across both terminals on the plug.
 
  #49  
Old 05-21-18, 11:50 AM
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are getting voltage at B on the ignition switch yet?
 
  #50  
Old 05-21-18, 12:07 PM
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Do you have 12 volts on both sides of the fuse? A corroded fuse terminal might indicate a loose or burnt connector for the fuse.
 
  #51  
Old 05-21-18, 07:49 PM
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There is no voltage at B nor is there voltage on either side of the main fuse, it was actually flashing a negative symbol.

Iím getting 2.2 ohms on the clutch and no reading at all on the wires that connect to the clutch.

I donít know if it means anything but I tested ohms at the main fuse and the reading was 15.6.
 
  #52  
Old 05-21-18, 08:33 PM
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Trace the wire with the fuse back to the hot post of the solenoid. Check for voltage from the battery to the solenoid.
 
  #53  
Old 05-21-18, 09:12 PM
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Your clutch is bad, this is probably what the rest of the problems stemmed from. The wire with the fuse in it needs to have power to it. It comes from the same terminal on the solenoid that the positive battery cable connects to. It is burned in two or has otherwise lost connection to that post. Repair this first and foremost. Either that or the battery connections are bad.
 
  #54  
Old 05-22-18, 02:44 PM
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Ok guys, I want to extend a very sincere thank you for helping me through this process. My wife is on the mower cutting the grass now.

I also want want to give a most humble apology for wasting your time.

I dont know what what caused the surge in the PTO but I have some time to figure that out.

Its running now now and want I can guess the starting issues were initially a bad battery and subsequently ME wiring the solenoid incorrectly.

Thatís right. I had the ignition wire on the wrong side. Last nights response finally clicked. I feel like such a fool but at the same time learned a lot in diagnostics and my mower.
 
  #55  
Old 05-22-18, 04:12 PM
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.
 
  #56  
Old 05-22-18, 06:36 PM
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It happens. Glad you got it going. Be aware the the PTO clutch is going to eventually overheat your switch again. It is at a borderline level of resistance, so it may take a while but it might take a while if it isn't used for hours at a time.
 
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