Electric Clutch

Reply

  #1  
Old 07-03-18, 12:10 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,335
Electric Clutch

I rebuilt a Kohler 16 Hp engine, and had to remove the electric clutch to get the engine out of a Toro HMR 1600 Model 55620 After the rebuild I must have torqued the retaining bolt too loose, as I lost the bolt, and washers that hold it on. What saved the clutch was the Clutch retainer. After I find the parts Lost , I need to know what the correct torque spec is for the clutch. I also put some never seize compound on the output shaft as after 40 years I could not get the clutch off without taking it apart. Never sieze might not be the right stuff to use. Maybe locktite blue?
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 07-03-18, 12:15 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: USA
Posts: 45
You MIGHT be able to find the proper specs online, but it will not be easy. I would go the simple route which is a fifth of a turn past "tight" with locktite blue as you mentioned, it will most likely be just fine. Just make sure the hole you are screwing into is not a through-hole before applying any type of compounds, they would likely break down over time (dissolve) and possibly cause problems
 
  #3  
Old 07-03-18, 10:32 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,749
I just put them on with an impact gun and all is fine. It needs to be very tight.
 
  #4  
Old 07-04-18, 07:57 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,335
I got the specs from Jacks small engines Handy Hints. (40 to 60 ft #s depending on the size of the bolt) I have the OEM mounting bolt and an OEM lock washer coming from PartsTree.com. there is another flat washer that goes up against the clutch that they cannot get from the manufacturer. Is this washer grade critical too? Will I be safe enough with a hardware store grade the right ID and OD?
 
  #5  
Old 07-11-18, 08:10 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,335
I got the torque specs from Toro, 40 ft #s is the right torque. What I didn't get, and didn't know, was that there is no place to hold onto the shaft if you are going to use a torque wrench, unless you remove the top cover and access the flywheel with a flywheel holder (perhaps?) With everything doped up with Loctite and ready to install, I went ahead with cheese"s rec and just hit it with my Milwaukee M18 and ran it up as best as I could. I didn't break anything as far as I know. As soon as the paint dries on the deck, I will have the true test!
 
  #6  
Old 07-11-18, 07:16 PM
Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: St. Louis
Posts: 2,354
Remove the spark plug and fill the cylinder with small rope like starter cord leave a little hanging out when you turn the crank the cord will stop the engine as itt cant compress the rope, when finished back it off a little and remove the rope. Have a good one. Geo
 
  #7  
Old 07-11-18, 08:20 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,335
THAT is a 20 star on a 10 star scale as far as I am concerned! Why didn't I think of that!
 
  #8  
Old 07-15-18, 02:59 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,335
Clutch Adjustment

I thought I would pull the clutch back off and adjust the required free play between the rotor and the magnet) before I applied torque to the mounting bolt per geos suggestion. I could not get a feeler guage between the two at all. They do rotate against one another but there is a Lot of drag when I try to spin the pulley. I think that whatever is in the clutch that moves when you tighten or loosen the adjustment nuts (3) is frozen up. I have removed the nuts, but cannot get the pulley and the disc it is attached to separated from the clutch. I need a clue as to how, or even if I can do it on an Ogura Clutch circa 1989 . I thought I had it apart years ago when it was frozen to the crankshaft. I thought removing the adjustment nuts allowed the bottom half of the clutch to just drop out with a little nudge from a home made puller, but it sure isn't doing it now! I have the clutch out of the tractor on the bench but need a clue as to whet to do next without destroying anythiing.
 

Last edited by WML13; 07-15-18 at 03:02 PM. Reason: Verbage
  #9  
Old 07-15-18, 11:01 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,749
There is the top piece that is closest to the engine with the bearing and the coil epoxied in it. Next is the dished out piece of clutch that has the flat clutch surface and is keyed to the crankshaft. It is pressed into the bearing of the former part. Then you have the thin flat disk with the pulley on it and another bearing. It might be partway pressed into the middle section. The clearance needs to be between the thin flat disk and the flat surface of the rotating middle section.

It is supposed to have a lot of drag when you spin the pulley... that is the brake. When you engage the clutch, this drag disappears.
 
  #10  
Old 07-16-18, 09:18 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,335
Your explanation (As always) makes sense, What would you do if you were me about not being able to adjust it to the .012 -.018 clearance the manual requires? I cannot hammer a feeler gauge between the two plates you mention in your reply as it sits. I am thinking about just putting it back in with the correct torque and listening and watching to see what happens unless you have another step for me to try!
 
  #11  
Old 07-16-18, 10:37 AM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,749
When you loosen the three nuts around the pulley area, there still is no gap? Makes me wonder if it could be rusted together or something. If you can turn the center piece without the pulley dragging, then it will probably work, but if you can't reach in and turn the center part freely, you'll probably have problems using it.
 
  #12  
Old Yesterday, 09:03 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,335
Electric Clutch

Correct, I cannot get a gap (where there is supposed to be one) even with the nuts removed from the spring loaded adjustment bolts. I CAN turn the two items against each other, (feels like brake drag) but cannot gap them to ANYTHING. All was working ok until it fell off the crankshaft, and I still have a good reading on the ohm meter. I had a 12 volt source to apply to it on the bench and I could hear the magnet trying to work, but won,t know if it is engaging the ;pulley until I put it back into the machine
 
  #13  
Old Yesterday, 10:10 AM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,749
Strange. I guess you'll either have to take it apart and see why or try it and see if it works okay. Watch that it doesn't get super hot when you crank the engine up, if it's dragging.
 
  #14  
Old Yesterday, 07:10 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,335
I have a friend who has been my local wizard for things like this in the past. He was able to stop by and take a look. He got the clutch apart and we now have a gap where there should be. The problem is that when we put all the parts back in place and set the gap, when we start to torque down the bolt that holds it on the crankshaft, it tightens up the gap between the rotor and the plate, putting us back where we started. He said if it were him, he would put in the correct number of "thrust"washers (a diameter that is smaller than the large spacer that the bolt holds against the bearing) to prevent the bolt from pulling down the rotor against the plate like it does now because of the extra space that exists there now. We figure that once these thrust washers are in place, we should be able to adjust the spring loaded bolts and nuts that are SUPPOSED to adjust the air gap to spec. I could not find anyone locally who has 1.165 OD and .430 OD thrust washers today, but will try again tomorrow. We could not find a smoking gun inside the clutch that would pinpoint why we lost the adjustment capability, but maybe something will turn up along the way.
 
  #15  
Old Yesterday, 11:46 PM
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 16,749
Strange. It shouldn't need anything that wasn't already there. Does this one have a bushing that goes in from the pulley side and bottoms out on the crankshaft? All pieces of the clutch should fit together fully and bottom out with each other and still permit the gap.
 
  #16  
Old Today, 06:36 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,335
I agree, I have on my bench all the parts on the breakdown that were lost most recently (no bushing is listed). There is a spacer listed on the breakdown for the clutch itself on the engine side of the pulley that MAY have been lost when the clutch seized to the crankshaft (rust over 40 years) and we put it back together then 2 years ago without it. (The clutch fell out as a unit this time, and nothing on the engine side of the pulley could have been lost) I will have to take the clutch apart to check it, just great. Its the only thing that makes any sense, so I am with you all the way.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
'