Weedeater: basic B&S 3.5 push mower, stalled won't restart


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Old 08-08-18, 02:20 PM
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Cool Weedeater: basic B&S 3.5 push mower, stalled won't restart

Hi, to start with, it's a weedeater model # 961140003 16, 22in cut push mower Briggs and Stratton 3.5 pretty much your basic push mower. Now I was not running it when it stalled so I don't know anything but "It just stopped running and would not restart". I know my way around small engines and I have checked all the 'usual suspects'. Carb, Gas, Plug, Gap, Spark (yes), even changed out the carb/tank with another that I just ran. (nope) then the Coil from the same extra mower that just ran,(nope) and the most I can get out of it is a pop thru the carb and that's about it. I have pulled the plug and put a little gas in and replaced the plug and still just a couple pops thru the carb. I haven't pulled the flywheel, but did clean it and the pick up coil when I swapped it. I can't believe a mower stumped me. I can rebuild a small block Chevy but I can't get a frikken mower to run, (I'll never be able to show my face at the community block party again)... All joking aside, I spent a lot of time looking through other posts here who had the same sorts of problems,and tried a few things but didn't figure it out. But MAN you guys are Fantastic! Your answers and knowledge of equipment and willingness to help is amazing! Hope you can help me out because: "MoWeR HaTe mE"..Tommy in Minnesota
 
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Old 08-08-18, 03:15 PM
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Whoever was using it may have hit something and sheared the flywheel key which controls the ignition timing so remove the flywheel and check the key. To lock the engine remove the spark plug get the piston to the bottom of the compression stroke load the cylinder with small rope like starter rope and leave a little hanging out, when you turn the crank to remove and tighten the flywheel nut the rope will lock the engine. Have a good one. Geo
 
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Old 08-08-18, 06:31 PM
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Cool

Thanks GeoGrubb, I will give that a look in the morning. I asked if the mower hit a rock or something, and the answer was no. but did say it's been running poorly lately and would die in taller grass. Thanks so much for your response!
 

Last edited by mowerhateme; 08-08-18 at 06:32 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 08-09-18, 08:09 AM
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I took of the flywheel and it all looked normal. Keyway was in and not sheared. put it back together and rechecked the distance between the coil and mag. .30 right? still have .spark, still won't run. checked gas again, tried choking it and adding gas, and priming, and still won't start. Only pops back thru the carb. now what?
 
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Old 08-09-18, 10:07 AM
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I always use a new business card for the coil gap. Try putting a spoonful of fuel in the sparkplug hole to see if it will run just a little. Have a good one. Geo
 
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Old 08-09-18, 10:55 AM
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Does it have compression?
 
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Old 08-10-18, 08:13 AM
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I've been doing the ol' 'mastie 1' trick of pulling plug and adding gas directly into the cyl. since the start of this mess, and still not running. every time i check or move the mag/coil distance, i recheck for spark, and it has spark. yes it does have compression, and i did take off the muffler to look for ?? but didn't notice anything out of ordinary in there. I'm gonna pull the head today and see if a valve is burnt or piston is damaged. i'll let you know what i find. sorry, i'm old and it's in the 90s and been humid all week so i havent been able to stand in the heat and pull on a mower cord for very long but i sure do appreciate you guys helping me. stay cool..
 
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Old 07-13-20, 07:43 PM
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mowerhateme,
I know I'm late to the discussion but...
I have the same issue with the same model Weedeater 3.5 hp B&S engine. I actually posted this issue 4 years ago when the exact same thing happened to me, i.e. I could get get a brief engine run on start by pouring a little gas directly into carb w/air filter removed. I checked the flywheel & blade keys, replaced the carb with a new one - and got the same results.
I'm hoping you found the issue - I actually bought one of the new Huskee push mowers when a new Tractor Supply opened up for $149 Special and put the Weedeater aside since then...
However, what I liked about the Weedeater was that it was lighter weight to push around on uneven terrain and now my old lighter 3.5 hp push power (MTD Yardman) has died, I need a replacement for the banks I have to mow. The Huskee feels about twice as heavy and is definitely slightly top-heavy...
Before I quit working on the Weedeater, I wondered if the problem was related to something with the automatic shut-off switch on the emergency release bail - though I couldn't explain why the mower would run for a second or two with the feed-gas directly to the carb. This one was a real puzzler.

In case you aren't monitoring DIY anymore, I'm going to post this as a separate thread/
Thanks,
greynold99
 
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Old 07-13-20, 07:57 PM
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Personal msg to Cheese

Cheese,
I found my old thread from 2015 on this issue and your reply. Sorry I didn't reply to your update then about checking the auto-shutdown mechanism for the bail release at the time but I'll be checking that tomorrow to see if it helps.
I'll post an update to this thread.
greynold99
 
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Old 07-13-20, 10:17 PM
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Greynold, if that doesn't do it, check the intake pipe. It's plastic and goes from the carb to the intake valve. It often cracks near where it mounts to the engine.
 
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Old 07-14-20, 07:42 AM
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Greynold if the old Weedeater mower has the carb setting on top of the gas tank the procedure below should solve the problem. Have a good one. Geo
You need to install a new diaphram kit, it is Briggs part # 795083 or old # 495770 also Lowe's has a kit #5083 which has the same parts.
Here we go:

Remove air cleaner, there are 2 bolts that hold things together, one on the front of the tank 3/8" and one into the block 1/2", remove these bolts, now "slowly" slide the carb/tank off the intake tube and breather tube, now tilt the tank in to release the throttle linkage and waalaa the carb/tank is removed. Check the intake tube to see if the “O” ring seal and plastic retainer are still on the intake tube, if so remove them and re-install them into the carb. Remove the 5 screws from the carb/tank remove carb(don't loose the spring) now spray all holes, cracks and crevases in both the carb and tank surface with brake parts cleaner, remove the main screen(looks like a thimble), now with a small screwdriver pry out the main jet(carefully) and clean it, check the “O” ring on the main jet for damage, if it is damaged it must be replaced, reinstall the jet, it can be difficult some times to get it to snap back in place(I use the rounded end of a screwdriver handle). Remove and clean the fuel pickup stem(not necessary if the fuel tank was clean). Clean any junk/rust from the tank. Install the diaphram on the tank then the gasket(no goo or sealer) now carefully replace the carb(the spring will try to misalign the diaphram), tighten all screws a little at a time so as not to crimp the diaphram until they are all tight. Install the carb/tank in reverse order and you are done. If I missed something one of the real mechanics will correct me. Have a good one. Geo

 
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Old 07-16-20, 08:25 AM
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Got your message ...

Geogrubb,
Thanks for replying. Actually what happened at the time back then, was that I bought a new carb for the Weedeater and put that on. Just like with the old carb in place, I could pour a little gas down the carb throat and it would start and run for just a second or two and then die.
How does the mechanism, I used to call a 'govenor' work on these mowers? I had an older B&S mower that had the control mechanism on the front of the engine - and every time you pushed it under a pine tree with low hanging limbs - the limbs would knock this and cause the engine to sputter and shut off. While still running, you had to quickly push the lever in the other direction to restore mower power.

I don't see this mechanism on the outside of the Weedeater engine, but I suspect it's probably still there, maybe on the inside of the cover.
Let me know what you think.
greynold99
 
 

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