Generator runs on full choke only
#1
09-08-18, 08:30 AM
Generator runs on full choke only
Older Generac 7000 exl
GN 360 engine, 13 hp
Picked up this gen, changed the oil, and drained questionable gas. Positive flow through the fuel shut off valve.
Took the carb off to clean it, and found a fair amount of sediment in the bowl. Cleaned and replaced the carb, and started with a shot of ether. On subsequent pulls the engine will run for a few seconds on full choke, while barfing out a ton of smoke. At half choke it sputters and dies, at no choke it dies.
I haven't inspected or replaced the spark plug yet. Research on the net suggests this may be due to unexepected air getting in. The guy i bought from had been trying to start it and experimented with the adjusting screw.
I'm not very clear on how to use the adjusring screw so i'm off to learn that next. I'm wondering if the adjusting screw might be out of whack due to his experiments. Is there a way to reset it to a neutral position?
GN 360 engine, 13 hp
Picked up this gen, changed the oil, and drained questionable gas. Positive flow through the fuel shut off valve.
Took the carb off to clean it, and found a fair amount of sediment in the bowl. Cleaned and replaced the carb, and started with a shot of ether. On subsequent pulls the engine will run for a few seconds on full choke, while barfing out a ton of smoke. At half choke it sputters and dies, at no choke it dies.
I haven't inspected or replaced the spark plug yet. Research on the net suggests this may be due to unexepected air getting in. The guy i bought from had been trying to start it and experimented with the adjusting screw.
I'm not very clear on how to use the adjusring screw so i'm off to learn that next. I'm wondering if the adjusting screw might be out of whack due to his experiments. Is there a way to reset it to a neutral position?
#2
09-08-18, 08:52 PM
Group Moderator
Doubtful too much air. More likely lack of fuel.
The mixture screws may not be set right but from what you are describing..... the carb is clogged. Usually it will need to be taken apart and cleaned internally. It may also need to be soaked in a degreaser to clear all the internal ports.
Be very careful to not damage the throttle linkage as it's very important to holding the generator at the correct speed based on load.
I was perusing around a few sites.... a new carb for that genny is in the $45-50 range and would be well worth it for that size genny.
The mixture screws may not be set right but from what you are describing..... the carb is clogged. Usually it will need to be taken apart and cleaned internally. It may also need to be soaked in a degreaser to clear all the internal ports.
Be very careful to not damage the throttle linkage as it's very important to holding the generator at the correct speed based on load.
I was perusing around a few sites.... a new carb for that genny is in the $45-50 range and would be well worth it for that size genny.
#3
09-09-18, 03:19 AM
Thanks, PJ, i've been thinking about a new carb but wanted to take a hard run at a fix.Never soaked a carb- would acetone work as a degreaser?
#4
09-09-18, 11:12 AM
Group Moderator
Never tried acetone. May be a little harsh on the internals. I use kerosene or the cleaning fluid/degreaser that comes in a gallon.
Looks like Gunk has an actual kit for the job.....
https://www.google.com/search?client...30.X_X5i6kkHa8
Looks like Gunk has an actual kit for the job.....
https://www.google.com/search?client...30.X_X5i6kkHa8
#5
09-09-18, 12:28 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Try running a torch tip cleaner up through the main jet in the carb without taking it off or anything. Many times this is all that is required to get a carb working again.
#6
09-10-18, 08:40 PM
Thanks, Cheese, while cleaning it i ran some .030 welding wire up through the main jet, then sprayed carb cleaner in and got after it with compressed air. Looking around at a new carb now.
#7
09-16-18, 01:33 PM
I installed a new carb, and now the engine runs just a touch longer before it quits. The engine now runs a little better at half choke, and not at all with the selector at no-choke.
Replaced the spark plug out of desperation, but no change.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Replaced the spark plug out of desperation, but no change.
Any ideas? Thanks!
#8
09-16-18, 04:16 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Check the plastic insulator behind the carb to be sure it's not cracked. You are still running out of fuel for some reason, either the carb is not delivering it or the engine is drawing air from somewhere other than the carb. Does the fuel flow freely from the tank into the carb bowl?
#9
09-30-18, 04:45 AM
Finally had time to look into this again- i pulled the fuel hose to drain the tank, and fuel flowed through freely. Still made sure it was open by running a piece of wire through it, and I sprayed carb cleaner into the fuel valve and blew it out with compressed air. I also checked the breather hose between the carb housing and the valve cover to make sure it was not blocked or cracked.
Re-assembled and ran the engine, then to test the idea of drawing air other than through the carb i sprayed ether around the carb, which should have made the engine surge if it was drawing air, but it did not.
Hope i'm not trying anyone's patience... any other ideas to check? Thanks!
Re-assembled and ran the engine, then to test the idea of drawing air other than through the carb i sprayed ether around the carb, which should have made the engine surge if it was drawing air, but it did not.
Hope i'm not trying anyone's patience... any other ideas to check? Thanks!
#10
09-30-18, 09:37 AM
Did some more research, and disconnected the low oil sensor. Engine now runs continuously at full and half choke, but still not unchoked. Next step is to replace the sensor, to see if that fixes the unchoked running.
