I bought a brand new 60" Dixie Chopper a few weeks ago and thought I was getting a deal when I saw the price. I hated it from the first time I tried using it. It's impossible to drive in a straight line, way to slow, poor cut, cup holders to small, gas hog, loud, to light in the front end, very poor traction, even at slow speeds this has a mind of it's own and wanders all over the place. (Keep in mind this is my 7th Z turn and 4th brand I've owned so I do now how it should handle) The day after I bought it someone asked me you do know there going out of business, right. Sure enough Textron the company that owns them is shutting it down because of the competition. I took it back to the dealer when it only had 7 hours on it and told him all my concerns and told him I wanted to trade it for new 60" Ferris that would cost me almost $2000.00 more, and he refused. This a dealership that I spend about $10,000 a year at. I lucked out and found someone with a brand new 54" Kubota with only 40 hours on it that was looking for a bigger mower so we traded even. It's far faster, two cup holders for some reason, head lights, floating seat, and cuts perfect even at full speed in 6" tall grass.

Hi all, I can't get my 2000 JD LX277AWS lawn tractor started. It has a 17Hp Kawasaki twin power unit. I had used it a couple of times this spring to mow my lawn. Early in the spring I had no spark so I unplugged the shorting wires on both coils and she fired right up. After using her I decided to plug the shorting wire back in on the coils and she had been starting right up, until I needed her this past weekend. I now have absolutely no spark. I tried unplugging the shorting wires as I did earlier in the spring from the coils but that made no difference. The battery is good strong. I'm thinking that maybe one of the safety switches is bad. The one under the seat is a NO. I used my meter to check continuity and it works like she should. I found one under the floor on the right side that has something to do with the brake pedal. It has a hydrostatic tranny. It's supposed to be a NC switch. I unplugged the connector and tested it using continuity on my meter. Continuity was present regardless if I pressed the switch, it never opened. Could this be indicative of a faulty NC switch? Is there a way to by-pass it so I can rule it out? All thoughts and suggestions are welcome. Thanks, Roger