Float Carb Flow Problem


Old 06-05-01, 07:02 AM
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First off I would like to thank the members here. The span of knowledge I have been able to tap into over the past few months has greatly helped in some new and some on going projects I have been working on. Hopefully I will be able to assist in adding to that over my time spent here.

The background:
Been working on a Sears Eager-1 (5.0 Tecumseh) push mower for a friend that was stored outside and neglected for the past 2 years, in other words it stopped working and was left to die a slow death behind a shed.

The work to date:
After pulling it completely down and basically rebuilding it from the ground up. Including new rings, reseating the valves, and rebuilding the carburetor. The motor started and came to life for the first time in years.

The Question / Problem:
Gas flow through the carburetor has been erratic to say the least. At first I was getting the standard “Stuck Float” flood out problem. I pulled the bowl off and verified two things. 1 The float does exactly that, float (over night in a glass of water) And 2 the needle valve does seat shutting off the gas flow (just manually raising the float with the bowl off). So next thought, thinking that I might have bent the pin seat on the float I proceeded to readjust it to what seemed like a good place for the gas to shut down. After putting the bowl back on I found that now it was not letting anything through. To bring this to the point after hours of pull readjusting again and again. It seems to be an all or nothing flow problem. I’m sure it is something simple I’m overlooking. Any insight would be greatly appreciated and reduce my blood pressure. Thanx
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Old 06-05-01, 07:36 PM
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Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 10,440
Hello Sleepwalker

Glad you like our web site and found the information being posted as helpful. I also hope to you help you equally as much in my forum. Unless, of course, your referring to my forum in the past as the forum that offered you all the prior help...

A carb with a float adjusted correctly must have the float level to the base of the top portion of the carb body when the bowl is removed.

To best level the float, carefully bend the tab on the float that supports the needle. The tab is located between the two holes the hinge pin passes through.

I use to slightly over bend it so the float is lower then level. Then with one finger carefully bend it upwards until the top surface of the float is just level to the lower body of the carbs base.

There is a cut out {Notched} fiber board float level tool used specifically for this purpose. However, doing one carb isn't worth the time locating and buying this tool. Therefore, a good eye ball eye level view should work well.

Be sure the needle has it's pointed end covered with a rubber tappered pointed tip and it isn't bent. Also check the needles seat within the carb body. It should not be loose. That part has a gasket and the head of the seat has a screw drive straight slot cut into it's head for removal or tightening.

Another possibility with these engines is the carb linkage rods must be correctly shapped and bent. Slightly out of tolerance link rods, bent rods, incorrectly installed or incorrectly located or installed backwards link rods will also cause the problem your discribing.

Often times, one or more of the above discribed conditions with a link rod will allow the engine run but then dies quickly. One assumes it's fuel or ignition related when it may not be.

Also check the fuel tanks vent cap. Breather vent may be part of the problem too.

Good Luck,
Accurate Power Equipment Company.
Small Engine Service and Repair Technician.
Personal Quote:
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it until it is broken!"
Keep in mind my company no longer services nor repairs lawn and garden powered equipment. However, the help I can offer you is based upon my prior years in this industry with this type of equipment.

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