Seized Crank (??) on my Snowblower

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  #1  
Old 01-04-20, 05:21 PM
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Seized Crank (??) on my Snowblower

Cub Cadet 1130 SWE w/ Electric Start
Tecumseh OHSK110 Engine

I'm having a really bad two days, and today got worse. My uncle gave me his old Cub Cadet two stage snowblower. The motor that pivots the throwing function was bad. He knows I like to fix stuff like that, so I did. Then today I go out to start it because he told me had used it this year already. It starts right up, runs about 30 seconds, then I hear a pretty loud clank and it just stops. I reach down just to start it again and the pull cord won't budge. I open the oil fill tube and it's smoking in there, then I see the dipstick is dry.

So I open the oil drain. Nothing. Nada. Zilch.

So I have, what I surmise to be, a seized crank.

Is there a way to get to the crank bearing without just pulling the whole thing apart? If it's only a bad journal bearing or rod then I'll just replace it. The parts themselves look inexpensive and I've done similar levels of work on cars.

If I have to pull the whole thing off and apart then would anybody know what other consumables I should expect to replace? Right now I'm just working with the parts catalog, any sort of service manual with torques with be appreciated, though I'm not expecting it.

This is super frustrating, but any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
  #2  
Old 01-04-20, 06:55 PM
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The seizing is likely on the rod journal, but with no oil everything in there that moves needs checked. You would have to go in through the lower end.

If the block is scored up you're getting closer to the scrap pile.
 
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Old 01-04-20, 10:04 PM
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Little late now but before I start any gas engines I own I check the oil even ones I use everyday. (and I own at least 10 of them)
I start by adding oil and removing the spark plug and see if you can get it to pull over.
If not then start looking for a new engine.
Not worth rebuilding an engine with a company that's no longer in business.
I've had great luck with Predator engines from Harbor Freight.
There about 1/2 the price of a B&S engine.
 
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Old 01-05-20, 05:54 AM
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Is there a way to get to the crank bearing without just pulling the whole thing apart?
Nope, just like a car everything has to come apart!

I replaced a crank in a mower that hit a stump that bent the crank, in that case the mower value was worth the effort and it was pretty simple process.

If the value of the item does not justify the cost of the part then scrap it!
 
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Old 01-05-20, 08:23 AM
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Alright, thank you everyone. It seems like the front cover comes off the rest of the "block." I was moderately hopeful there was a way to get at it like that. I guess I know what I'm doing today.

Regarding Harbor Freight engines. I've never really dealt with something like this. Would the base plate mounts be the same size? And any PTO would be the same, or would I have to take things off and retrofit? Are there pretty plug and play? I clearly have a bit of research to do, I'm just asking questions over my morning coffee.
 
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Old 01-05-20, 10:45 AM
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The crank diameter and the mounting holes would be the first I'd think of. Sometimes the guys that designed those things twenty years ago don't make it easy on you.

You may just want to price a new blower, too and not monkey with making it all fit.
If the engine has worn out, the blower you have probably has a lot of run time.

Sometimes you fix one end then have to start working on the other.
 
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Old 01-05-20, 01:30 PM
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So first off, the good news. It's not a seized crank.

Now, the bad news. Check out those pictures. Damn. And this kids, is why you use oil.

As all of you know, ten year old Tecumseh short blocks are not plentiful, so it doesn't look like there's an easy (and by easy, I mean cheap) replacement available. I'm into this for zero money, and have another single stage blower I use so I don't want to sink a lot of money into this. I have nothing to lose by welding so I'm going to try that first.

I'll get the flywheel off tonight and inspect the crank then. If it's toast, that's not exactly something I can weld in the garage. That may be a bridge too far at that point.




 
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Old 01-05-20, 02:24 PM
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Small engine warehouse has a section for re-powering old equipment, worth checking, link below. Have a good one. Geo
Home - Small Engine Warehouse
 
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Old 01-05-20, 02:51 PM
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the good news. It's not a seized crank
Afraid that's just as bad if not a little worse since things have come apart. Everything mentioned would apply.
 
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Old 01-05-20, 06:01 PM
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I think the crank is no good. Cylinder bore was actually pretty well oiled, so no damage there. But if I'm replacing the crank then I no longer have an economically viable option.

I've found a replacement OHSK110 engine, but the last digits of the engine are different. Same family, so I doubt it matters, but I'm curious what it means. Mine is OSHK110 221708A and this other one is 221704A. Is it interchangeable? And I can I put my electric starter onto this other engine (it doesn't come with one)?

Thanks for the help everyone.


c
 
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Old 01-05-20, 08:05 PM
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Old 01-07-20, 05:22 PM
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For the cheapest way I would take that crank to a automotive shop first. It not be as bad as it looks. A lot of times aluminum transfers to the crank and a shop can touch it up and make it work.

If it's still good, and the piston is OK, you'd just need a matching rod and a set of rings. That chip out of the casing wouldn't cause a problem unless there is a crack extending off it. The other stuff you have doesn't look burned up or scored.

If going this route the taper on the bore needs checked, then hone and clean it up.

After that you'd just have gaskets and cleaning it up. May surprise you how many hours it will go from there.

Thrown rods like that show up a lot.
 
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Old 01-08-20, 06:08 AM
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Adding electric start to an engine requires a different flywheel that has teeth for the starter. I have never seen a pull start only engine that had a flywheel with teeth for a starter so if you want your engine to have electric start, you should buy an engine that has electric start. Otherwise you'll be changing the flywheel and finding the parts for a import engine could be difficult.
 
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Old 01-10-20, 11:28 AM
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Thanks for the note on flywheels. The new engine comes this weekend. The "with starter teeth" flywheel is already off of the old engine, so I'll see how much effort I want to put into pulling the old one off and replacing.

marbob, to clean up that crank journal the machine shop I usually use wanted $25. And a new conrod was going to be about $25 with shipping. And it's occuring to me now that my pics are gone, but my block was badly (BADLY!) cracked. I can't weld at home, and I was getting quotes in the $75 range. I got the other engine shipped for ~$135 so I just went with that. But I'm definitely keeping the bad one so my kids can start to understand IC engines and how valve trains work. I'm probably going to 3D print up some clear sump/valve covers and throw them on.

I need to make the pics smaller and attach so I can forever attach my shame to this username.
 
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Old 01-10-20, 12:15 PM
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farmerjg
I have repaired probably 10 tecumseh motors in my time with the imfamous blown connecting rod, some even produced at least a 1 inch hole in the block. I've repaired all of them using fibre glass. 3 pieces on the inside and 3 pieces on the outside. Never had an issue with them leaking oil or falling off.
just another alternative.

Snoman110
 
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Old 01-11-20, 02:28 PM
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Thanks for the fiber glass note. I'll try that since I can do it at home.

A couple notes;
1) New engine had the correct flywheel, so I got lucky there. But.....
2) The magneto stator on the "new," but older, engine was significantly smaller. So I just pulled the whole thing apart and switched it. I'm assuming the snowblower "needed" the bigger one.
3) What torque do I torque the flywheel nut to?

Everything else that needed switched lined up perfectly. I'm glad I found the same model number. And I already know this one doesn't have oil. So I'll add that.
 
  #17  
Old 01-18-20, 02:04 PM
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Just back for a final update. I'd like to thank everyone for their help. And it definitely has oil in it this time.

https://youtu.be/_tCS04EOJww
 
 

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