Weed Eater - Ryobi - Gas


Old 06-08-01, 10:48 AM
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The weed eater starts fine in choke - it takes a bit to warm up, but then it is fine.

I put the choke to half throttle and it runs fine. If I squeeze the trigger, ever so slightly, it dies.
I can start it back up again and after about 15 min of running in half throttle, I can squeeze the trigger a bit without it dying.

If at anytime I put the choke to full throttle and squeeze the trigger, even a little bit - it dies ( no matter how long it has warmed up )

The weed eater is a little over a year old and was a gift ( no receipt ) It was stored flat with an empty tank.
I mixed the oil that came with the unit with the gas per it's instructions.

Any suggestions?
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Old 06-08-01, 12:20 PM
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I usualy start my ryobi with full choke, let it warm up a bit (about 3 or 5 min), then move it to 1/2 choke, untill I can full throttle it, then take the choke off. and it runs great, is almost 2 yrs old now.

If you leave it at full choke it wont run when you give it gas. No air flow, just gas, runs to rich, or lean...I think its rich.

Is the gas good? does it smell sickly sweet or like gas? is the mixture correct? Spark plug clean?

Always seems like you have to learn the "trick" to get a 2-cycle lawn tool to run good.

Old 06-08-01, 01:03 PM
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Angry Weed Eater - ryobi - gas

I might not have explained myself correctly. I followed the instructions:
Pump gas bulb 5 - 7 times while choke is in 'A' position. Squeeze trigger and pull starter max three times.

Move choke to 'B' position, squeeze trigger and pull starter max 5 - 7, repeat process until it starts.

Once system is warm, move Choke to 'C' position and begin to work.

When system is in 'B' position after it is warm (15 min) I can barely squeeze the trigger.
If I move the lever to the 'C' position, the slightest touch to the trigger kills the engine.

Thanks for all of your help so far!!!
Old 06-08-01, 01:57 PM
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Hello mmarasc

First we need to clear up the confusion over the terms used. The throttle controls the engines speed. The choke closes off the air flow into the carb to richen the fuel mixture to help start a cold engine.

The problem condition your discribing is classic of a carb that is fuel starved. That said, when the lever is in the "A" position, the choke is fully closed.

When you move the lever to slightly open the closed choke {Position "B"} it allows more air in which then leans out the fuel mixture.

Position "C" is the full run position, no choke on. Normal operation position.

When you squeeze the throttle lever, in an attempt to speedup the engine while in position "C" then engines dies do to fuel starvation. {Lack of fuel.} However, in position "B" there is less air {Richer Fuel Mix} then in position "C" and the engine runs but not well.

You weed eater needs it's high speed circuit fuel system within the carb cleaned out. What is known as a carb cleanout and rebuilt with a new card kit.

All gas engine powered equippment of this type use diaphram carbs. These carbs have very tiny parts and require some degree of skills, tools and techniques to accomplish the task. They are not as easy to cleanout and rebuild as float bowl carbs used on most lawn mowers.

Therefore, if you attempt this task, as a do it yourself project, it can be done but beware it takes patients and attention to details. The archives within this forum have further details and information on this subject topic.

Good Luck,
Accurate Power Equipment Company.
Small Engine Service and Repair Technician.
Personal Quote:
"If it ain't broke, don't fix it until it is broken!"
Bare in mind my company no longer services nor repairs lawn and garden powered equipment. Rest assured and fully confident, the help I offer you is based upon my prior years in this industry, with this type of equipment and is specific and accurate...


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