Need Help Rebuilding Carb on Homelite 240 Saw
#1
04-12-20, 11:34 AM
Need Help Rebuilding Carb on Homelite 240 Saw
Wellsir ... after getting my chain on the saw I came across another problem. I clean the filter, put in a new spark plug ... fresh fuel, but it would not start. Only other reason I know of is the carburetor. I found that there are different carbs for the 240 ... mine is the UT-10625D ... I replacement carb for this particular saw is expensive over $100 in some case, while other carbs for the 240 with a UT-105... number the replacement carb is around $30. I don't understand how the same saw uses different carbs.
So I decided to get a repair kit for it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Repair...53.m2749.l2649
It's way cheaper than getting a new carb. My first problem is how to I get it detached from the linkage? I twisted and turned it as much as I could but I could not get it off. Is there another way of doing it? Is there a way to detach the linkage from the handle area?
What would you recommend to get the carb loose?
So I decided to get a repair kit for it.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-Repair...53.m2749.l2649
It's way cheaper than getting a new carb. My first problem is how to I get it detached from the linkage? I twisted and turned it as much as I could but I could not get it off. Is there another way of doing it? Is there a way to detach the linkage from the handle area?
What would you recommend to get the carb loose?
#3
04-13-20, 01:46 PM
Next Step?
Okay ... I got it off ... 
hope I can get it back on okay.
So now I have to wait for the repair kit to arrive. Is there anything I can do while I wait? Any pointers when doing the rebuild?
hope I can get it back on okay. So now I have to wait for the repair kit to arrive. Is there anything I can do while I wait? Any pointers when doing the rebuild?
#4
04-13-20, 01:56 PM
Don't take anything apart until you get the kit. Then take a picture of everything before you take it apart.
The kit will have a number of things you don't use so you have to go through them and match what your carb has in it to what you will need. Also take note of the orientation of things like gaskets. You'll save yourself a lot of trouble.
The kit will have a number of things you don't use so you have to go through them and match what your carb has in it to what you will need. Also take note of the orientation of things like gaskets. You'll save yourself a lot of trouble.
spirittoo voted this post useful.
#5
04-13-20, 03:56 PM
No Replacement for One
There is a gasket on the bottom of the carb that doesn't match any of the gaskets pictured in the kit. I'm sure I need it because that is the bottom part carburetor that connects the to the saw. I just don't understand why a replacement gasket for it does not come in the kit.
#6
04-13-20, 04:01 PM
You have the kit, then? It probably has the gasket, you may just have to turn the new one over and flip it to get it to line up with the old one. Make sure the diaphragms and gaskets match perfectly.
But don't take stuff apart until you have the kit in hand.
But don't take stuff apart until you have the kit in hand.
#7
04-13-20, 05:29 PM
No Kit Yet
Nope no kit yet ... I was looking at the picture of the gaskets in the kit and there is nothing like it. I posted these pictures so folks that have the same carb as I do can see what I do when I rebuild it. I don't see anything on line that addresses my particular carburetor. I don't know why there are different ones for the homelite 240, but hopefully this will help someone in the future.
As you can see the gasket on the carb doesn't match any of the gaskets in the picture in the link of the replacement kit. I took a picture of all sides of it so folks can get a good look at it.
As you can see the gasket on the carb doesn't match any of the gaskets in the picture in the link of the replacement kit. I took a picture of all sides of it so folks can get a good look at it.
#9
04-13-20, 06:48 PM
This looks like the one you would need. If you didn't want to spend the 8 bucks you can try to save the old one if you're careful with it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Homelite-GA...8AAOSwPi9ejSdu
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Homelite-GA...8AAOSwPi9ejSdu
#10
04-14-20, 02:49 PM
Naw ... I'm going to go ahead and replace it. Since I got it down to that part I might as well, could save me a headache later on. What would you recommend to cleaning out the carburetor compartment? I have a air compressor, can that work to get it clean? Thanks for that link to the gasket.
#11
04-14-20, 04:49 PM
#12
04-17-20, 10:49 AM
Got The Kit
Wellsir ... the kit came yesterday and I am going put it together today. I checked out a couple of videos on rebuilding ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGZBlplOojg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1kbFUOB5gU&t=795s
I'm not sure what the guy in the first video was saying about putting the diaphragm on a certain way, maybe I can tell better once I look inside. I figure I need the four metal parts for the rebuild.
I'm going to use the brake cleaner instead of carb cleaner as was suggested.
Hopefully this diagram will be helpful for future rebuilds of this carb.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGZBlplOojg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1kbFUOB5gU&t=795s
I'm not sure what the guy in the first video was saying about putting the diaphragm on a certain way, maybe I can tell better once I look inside. I figure I need the four metal parts for the rebuild.
I'm going to use the brake cleaner instead of carb cleaner as was suggested.
Hopefully this diagram will be helpful for future rebuilds of this carb.
#13
04-17-20, 11:25 AM
Note the two pieces on the bottom of the Zama. One is a diaphragm and the other is a gasket. The gasket goes against the carb body, then the diaphragm. That gives the reservoir more capacity.
#14
04-17-20, 12:19 PM
Put it together
I followed the diagram that I posted when placing the gaskets. I took pictures of the different stages.
First picture is after I removed the parts. Second picture is the original spring is shorter, so I use it. The original pin looked a bit different so I use it too. The last picture is after I got the parts in. As you can see there was no screen so I didn't use the one that came in the kit. More pictures in next post.
First picture is after I removed the parts. Second picture is the original spring is shorter, so I use it. The original pin looked a bit different so I use it too. The last picture is after I got the parts in. As you can see there was no screen so I didn't use the one that came in the kit. More pictures in next post.
#15
04-17-20, 12:28 PM
More Pictures
This is the new diaphragm next to the old. I figured I got it on right because of the little hook on the bottom. Second picture the top part of the carb and the gaskets. Third picture is the old gaskets ... one was plastic and the other was one thick plastic piece, but I used the two replacement gaskets. As you can see I got the old gasket off, but since I ordered a new one I will wait for it to come. As of now the carb is rebuild. I tried to set the carb high and low screws like in the video, but they don't as must as the ones in the video. I hope I didn't throw it off too bad.
#17
04-17-20, 05:42 PM
Which is which?
If you mean the part that showing in the last picture in my first section of pictures, I could not tell the difference from the old and the new. I got them mixed up. I don't know which one I used.
I don't know which one I used.
#18
04-17-20, 06:57 PM
In post #14 , the first component to the left of the carb body is the metering arm. Farther along in the picture sequence it looks like that part or one like it has been installed. The problem is, it doesn't look like the small fork at the end of that arm is in place in the groove just under the head of the metering valve.
Did you fit that fork to the groove? If not it needs to be. The carb won't work if it's not.
Did you fit that fork to the groove? If not it needs to be. The carb won't work if it's not.
#19
04-17-20, 09:50 PM
Nope ... didn't do it
No I did not put the folk in the groove ... you mean the round part where the needle goes? Not sure I understand. I will go back into it and see if I can figure it out.
#21
04-18-20, 12:48 PM
Got it
Okay ... I checked it out and I didn't have the folk attached to the needle. I corrected that. I want to show a photo, but I got a statement that I exceeds my quota by 123Kb, I reduced the size and tried uploading again, and I got another error stating secure connection failed ... don't know what is up with that.
What do I need to do to get the high and low adjustments set so it will start.
What do I need to do to get the high and low adjustments set so it will start.
#22
04-18-20, 01:46 PM
Try it first with the limiter caps in place and a spoon of gas down the plug hole. Then use no choke and full throttle. If it takes off it will prime the carb and you're good to go.
#23
04-18-20, 11:24 PM
would turn them 1.5 turns out to start with it should run there then once the engine is warmed up would adjust both the high and low so the saw is running well usually they need to be set a little rich to run well, would of removed limiters and mixture screws to clean carb anyway, probably wouldnt put back on limiters in most cases.
#24
04-20-20, 11:04 AM
Can't turn that much
I an unable to turn the screw that much because of the limiter caps. What is the purpose of them? Do they help or hurt? How would I remove them? Check my photo of them.
#25
04-20-20, 01:10 PM
If you have assembled the carb and installed it, see if the saw will start as I previously described and don't mess with removing the caps.
They are primarily for emissions standards. Although the range of adjustment they allow is what the engine normally needs for its application.
They are primarily for emissions standards. Although the range of adjustment they allow is what the engine normally needs for its application.
#26
04-20-20, 04:02 PM
One Second Run ... Then Nothing
Wellsir ... I put a spoon full of fuel into the plug hole as you stated. I didn't use the choke and I had it full throttle. It ran for a second then stopped. I tried again with full throttle, but no luck. I tried using the choke ... no luck. The choke and full throttle no luck. Back to just full throttle no luck. I will let it sit for a while and see if it is flooded and try again.
#29
04-20-20, 04:37 PM
Same Results
Did the spoon of fuel ... started for a couple of seconds then stopped. I am all out of breath for today. Getting something to start with a pull cord that won't is very hard on my old body.
#30
04-20-20, 04:38 PM
There should be a filter in the tank. It would be on the line going through the casing to the
carburetor.
When you get back to it, do the spoon of gas procedure. When it starts and dies, go to full choke and half throttle. It sounds like you're getting close.😊
carburetor.
When you get back to it, do the spoon of gas procedure. When it starts and dies, go to full choke and half throttle. It sounds like you're getting close.😊
#31
04-21-20, 12:31 PM
Can't Find Filter
If there is a filter in the gas tank I can not see it. There is no attaching line on the gas cap for this model. So you think I should keep doing the spoon of fuel method until I get it started? I noticed fuel came out of the muffler housing the last time when it tried to start. I guess I put too much in the hole. It snowing today, so I won't have a chance to work on it. Should I try and do something with the adjustment screws?
#32
04-21-20, 12:47 PM
Stop putting the gas down the plug hole if you're getting it out the muffler. You only need a small spoonful - just a dribble.
Fish around in the gas tank a little. You should have a gas line in there with a filter on the end of it.
Once it tried to start, have you went to the full choke and half throttle setting? Just leave it on full choke for a couple pulls. Those things can be a little aggravating to get running.
I doubt if working the mixture screws outside their original setting will get you anything. If the caps are still on them, leave them alone for now.
Fish around in the gas tank a little. You should have a gas line in there with a filter on the end of it.
Once it tried to start, have you went to the full choke and half throttle setting? Just leave it on full choke for a couple pulls. Those things can be a little aggravating to get running.
I doubt if working the mixture screws outside their original setting will get you anything. If the caps are still on them, leave them alone for now.
#33
04-21-20, 01:14 PM
the fuel filter on chainsaws just inserts into the end of the fuel line often called clunk filters they are weighted and move around so the saw still gets fuel even when turned on its side cause the filter will just move around in the gas tank with gravity long needle nose or hemostat can be useful fishing out the gas line or even replacing it would probably suspect it could use new fuel lines if you havent changed them.
#34
04-22-20, 10:39 AM
Fuel Line Change?
Okay I will fish around with something to see if I can find the filter. Once I do ... what am I suppose to do with it? Clean? Replace? Is the part available? I don't know about the fuel line or where it is. I don't think I notice it on any of the diagrams I've seen.
#35
04-22-20, 11:52 AM
Make sure it has one. They are readily available. Post back
The fuel line would start in the tank with the filter on it's end, then go through the casing to the carburetor. You would have hooked the line to the carburetor when you installed the carb. That line supplies the gas.
The fuel line would start in the tank with the filter on it's end, then go through the casing to the carburetor. You would have hooked the line to the carburetor when you installed the carb. That line supplies the gas.
#36
04-22-20, 03:02 PM
Still Won't Start
I tried the gas in the plug hole again ... it started, then stopped. I used the choke and half throttle still no go. I looked in the fuel tank, probed with the hemostats. I think I see the fuel line, but no fuel filter. Even if there was a filter, there is no way on God's green Earth that I would be able to pull it of the fuel line out with hemostats.
#37
04-22-20, 03:11 PM
Checked Out Manual
I was checking the manual on line and I see there is a fuel filter in the picture, but it is in a place I can't get to it. See page 4. It doesn't look like it was meant to come out. I see no way to get to it.
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandrep...evision_1_.pdf
https://www.leonschainsawpartsandrep...evision_1_.pdf
#38
04-23-20, 08:28 PM
How to do it?
Okay so how do I remove and replace the fuel filter and the gas line? Would a coat hanger work it the gas line is just lying in the tank? Do you just put the fuel line and filter in the tank? Do you have to take something apart to get to the line?
#39
04-24-20, 05:46 AM
To access and replace the fuel filter all you do is pull the line and filter end out of the tank. The line is long enough to do that. The easiest way is turn it upside down and shake it. The filter usually falls out. If you have a filter on the line, that is not likely your problem.
What you're getting indicates a good chance something inside the carburetor isn't working just right. Were you able to get all the gaskets and diaphragms matched and installed without any problems?
Just replacing the carburetor with an ebay job would be an option. A lot of guys do that instead of fighting a headache rebuild.
What you're getting indicates a good chance something inside the carburetor isn't working just right. Were you able to get all the gaskets and diaphragms matched and installed without any problems?
Just replacing the carburetor with an ebay job would be an option. A lot of guys do that instead of fighting a headache rebuild.
#40
04-24-20, 10:00 AM
New One That's Under $40?
I checked to make sure I put the carb back together right. I tried to show what I did in my photos before I could not longer upload pictures. I wanted to show how I had that part put together, but I couldn't post it. Maybe the old needle should be replace and try the different fork attachment?
So far all the new Zama C-1S A 96352-A are very expensive ... $102 before shipping and tax ... some at $80. Is there a replacement I could get that isn't that expensive?
So far all the new Zama C-1S A 96352-A are very expensive ... $102 before shipping and tax ... some at $80. Is there a replacement I could get that isn't that expensive?
