McLane edger with Brigs 3.5 engine


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Old 11-18-22, 06:45 PM
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McLane edger with Brigs 3.5 engine

During the summer, the engine would run just a little off of choke, [can edge my yard} anything less will eventually die. Bought a B&S carb gasket kit for it, took it all apart, cleaned all the orifice's etc. replaced the idle mix screw, choke works normal, throttle blade is clean and moves. The engine had about 1/2" of crud all over the head, coil, govner, all items under the case and the flywheel. Cleaned all that off, set the clearance to a business card thickness, makes good spark with a new spark plug. The problem now is, will run on the 2 or 3 pull for about 10 seconds and shuts down. Any movement of the throttle cable will shut it down immediately as will manually moving the throttle itself. I have adjusted the mixture screw in 1/4 turns both in and out from initial setting of 1 1/2 turns from seat and has no effect. Fuel pump gasket new and clean as well as a very clean gas tank. This one of the engines that the carb mounts of top of the fuel tank, no hoses, but rather a pick up tube near the bottom of the tank. I am stumped, any suggestions appreciated. Tx
 
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Old 11-18-22, 07:57 PM
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Did you pull the carb completely out of the fuel tank, and blow out the intake screen and tube? And then completely clean the fuel tank?
 
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Old 11-18-22, 08:03 PM
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Assuming the pickup tube isn't blocked... On those old carbs, I always cleaned both metal surfaces and buffed them to ensure they were clean and then applied a bit of mineral oil onto both sides of the gasket perimeter before screwing it down. If this is the type of carb with the short dime sized spring and spring seat, ensure you turned that spring and seat the right direction when you reassembled. You also need to have the air cleaner and screw installed.
 
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Old 11-20-22, 06:36 PM
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WML13 -- Yes the carb was pulled completely out of the tank, the screen was clean with both air hose and carb cleaner. Yes the tank is spotless. Cleaned with carb cleaner and blew it out with compressor. Visual inspection no rust and dirt at all.

XSleeper. -- I did clean the top of the tank down to bare metal. The bottom of the carb is also spotless. Very small amount of shellac (Indian head gasket seal) applied to top of tank and bottom of carb. New gasket applied.
Tx for suggestions. Pat
 
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Old 11-21-22, 02:02 PM
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Does it have the fuel pump on the side of the carb?
 
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Old 11-22-22, 12:54 PM
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Yes pump on side of carb. Trying to add pics, but keep getting error? Trying single pics now.
 
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Old 11-22-22, 12:55 PM
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is this the correct place for the throttle spring?
 

Last edited by Mike1555; 11-22-22 at 12:57 PM. Reason: add text
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Old 11-22-22, 12:59 PM
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Add pics



 
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Old 11-22-22, 01:02 PM
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Old 11-22-22, 01:10 PM
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The end....
 

Last edited by Mike1555; 11-22-22 at 01:12 PM. Reason: add text
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Old 11-22-22, 01:57 PM
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There is a little plate on the side of that carb... Did you change that gasket? When it doesn't want to run and/or it runs out of fuel, I've found that gasket is always the problem. Post 8, 2nd photo, on right.
 
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Old 11-22-22, 04:03 PM
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That's the fuel pump XSleeper is talking about. That's the part I'm focused on too.
 
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Old 11-22-22, 07:27 PM
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Back in the day I would take the cover off, carefully remove the gasket, rub some Vaseline on both sides between both fingers and put them back on. Seemed to be an annual thing every spring.

I'm unsure about that spring and linkage. Or why it is hanging where it is currently. Seems to me that model usually had a plastic air vane governor that the long linkage was on, and it had a return spring on it. I don't see a vane though. What's the model # on the shroud? It's an old engine... takes me back. Think my folks had a similar one on an old Montgomery Ward rototiller.
 
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Old 11-23-22, 07:44 AM
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Really appreciate the response here. Yes I did change out the gasket on the fuel pump, double checked the spring and "top hat" washer. Will take it apart shortly and send some pics. This is the engine info. Note it is a 1994 model ). I know where the loose ends of the linkage and spring go on the carb, I was unsure where how it attached to the governer plate.. TX

 

Last edited by Mike1555; 11-23-22 at 07:48 AM. Reason: adding text
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Old 11-23-22, 08:35 AM
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Fuel pump view. Once again, cleaned all the offices with carb cleaner, blew out with compressed air, everything appears to be clean and unobstructed. I believe I have this carb shown in diagram below? Did a "little"vasoline on fuel pump gasket.



 
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Old 11-23-22, 10:28 PM
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That fuel pump diaphragm looks old and distorted. I doubt it's working properly as you can see the check valve flaps curling and the imprint of the hole on one, and the distortion from the cup and spring. I'd replace that diaphragm.
 
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Old 11-25-22, 02:05 PM
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Diaphragm was new out of the box, but no telling how old the box is.
Just ordered 5 ea gaskets with spring and cap AZ $8

Added note: decided to change the blade out and noticed it was hard to turn. Knocked the shaft out, one bearing was nice and smooth, the other was "crunchy'. A pair of those are also on order. :O)
 

Last edited by Mike1555; 11-25-22 at 02:27 PM.
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Old 11-25-22, 07:52 PM
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I think someone took the new diaphragm out of the box and put an old one in then. That's a used one, been in place for a long time. It should be flat, no impression left by the spring and cup.
 
 

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