Husqvarna yth24k48 blowing fuses


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Old 03-31-23, 02:25 PM
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Unhappy Husqvarna yth24k48 blowing fuses

I was munching through some thick bracken and vegetation that my soon to be Ex planted (: and my tractor blew a fuse and stopped running. I am fearing that something much more than electrical is the cause and the fuse blowing is a symptom. I ordered a 12v test light which will arrive tomorrow. In the mean time I checked for loose connections and damaged wires and found nothing. Blows the ignition fuse as soon as I turn it to on. I can NOT turn the engine by hand placed on the engine screen.
 
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Old 03-31-23, 04:09 PM
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A fuse opens because of an electrical issue, not any mechanical issue. The fuse is opening because the battery positive wiring on the load side of the fuse is contacting ground (chassis) someplace it shouldn't or a load device like a solenoid is internally shorted to ground. Without a schematic or wiring diagram, specific troubleshooting is difficult to provide here because relationship of fuse to switch and loads is unknown. Do you have a wiring diagram?
 
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Old 03-31-23, 05:47 PM
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Pic uploads but looks like it was drawn with a crayon
 
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Old 03-31-23, 05:57 PM
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wiring diagram take 3
 
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Old 04-01-23, 05:33 AM
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Great you have the electrical diagram. Unfortunately it is a combination wiring diagram and schematic because the black dots don't indicate physical wire like the wiring shown between the battery, start solenoid and fuse. The diagram shows there are 2 wires on the start solenoid, one going to the battery positive and the other to the battery side of the fuse. If a black dot was used on the diagram, one would not know which of the 3 locations had 2 wires connected so use diagram with caution. You said "Blows the ignition fuse as soon as I turn it to on.". Diagram shows 4 switch position. OFF, RUN/OVERRIDE, RUN and START. Which position is opening the fuse?
 
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Old 04-01-23, 05:30 PM
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I did not make it to start before it blew, but not sure if it was run/override or run. I received a test light this evening, and could put in another fuse to determine, as I do some testing tomorrow at lunch time.
 
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Old 04-01-23, 06:35 PM
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would likely disconnect everything a1 is going to and see if it still blows a fuse if it does not, plug one item in at a time and recheck looks like pto switch, fuel shut off solenoid, voltage regulator are 3 components the hour meter and light switch probably not likely the issue but does go to a1 but the 12 volt accessory outlet would probably disconnect that also as I have seen them short out or a piece of metal fall into them or devices plugged into them cause a short.
once you find out what causes the fuse to blow you can at least narrow it down a little closer to the problem wire or component.
 
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Old 04-02-23, 06:13 PM
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Instead of blowing fuses, disconnect the negative battery cable and connect your test light between it and the battery.. Then put a new fuse in and the test light will light up. Disconnect the carburetor fuel shutoff solenoid and if the light goes out, the fuel solenoid needs to be tested. But most likely something else is wrong and the test light will stay on. Next I would unplug the voltage regulator and the PTO switch and other things like that until you hit the one that turns the light off when you unplug it. When that happens, you've found your short.
 
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Old 04-03-23, 04:39 AM
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Using Cheese's approach, observing the first switch position from OFF that turns test light on should limit the wiring and loads to be checked because that switch position only energizes certain circuits as shown on the diagram.
 

Last edited by beelzebob; 04-03-23 at 04:42 AM. Reason: typed off instead of on
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Old 04-03-23, 06:47 AM
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I do not see the test light being used inline as an amp meter being helpful used to use that method to find electrical draws in older vehicles but these were not shorts basically any thing that is consuming a little power should light the test light really does not tell you that its shorted circuit and causing the fuse to blow.
 
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Old 04-03-23, 09:57 AM
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It does. Because absolutely nothing should be "consuming a little power" with the key on except for the carburetor solenoid, which is why I say it should be the first thing to unplug. There are some with a separate start and safety interlock relay and if this was one, you would unplug the relay(s) as well. After that the light should go out. If not, something is shorted. There is nothing else to consume the power. So you unplug other various things until you find the defective thing causing the short, and if all components are unplugged and the light is still on, you can continue to work with the wiring harness until you find the pinched wire or whatever the case may be. I use this method regularly.
 
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Old 04-03-23, 10:17 AM
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thanks for explaining it but I would assume that the regulator, fuel solenoid, hour meter would all have some consumption the pto clutch would not if the switch was open not to mention when I used it you had to have an old school traditional test light with a bulb for it to work it did not work with more modern led versions.
 
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Old 04-03-23, 11:53 AM
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Right, I didn't even know there was a LED version. The LED type would still work in a full-on fuse-blowing short like this. It probably wouldn't show parasitic drains and such where it would only dimly light an incandescent test light (unless these "new" test lights have some controller to make it light at lower amperages and voltages too). I like the regular test light because you can see if it's a bright 12 volt full short or if it barely lights and you have a small parasitic drain or if it changes as you move things around. The hour meter can't draw enough amperage to light the bulb IIRC. The regulator consumes none. It has a diode which doesn't allow any voltage to pass through in reverse and there is no power on the other end if the engine isn't running. The only power on the other side of the diode is that which is generated buy the alternator stator when the engine is running. So if the light is on and you unplug the regulator and the light goes off, then the regulator is bad. Which is often the case.
 

Last edited by cheese; 04-03-23 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 04-04-23, 05:31 PM
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The light goes out when I disconnect the 6 terminal harness connector. Jumping each terminal in the connector isolates the white wire in the harness that goes up under the engine cover. I guess I will have to take that cover off to figure out where it goes after that.
 
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Old 04-06-23, 04:37 AM
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Diagram does not show a white wire in the chassis harness connector. I can only find 4 connections of the 6 available in the chassis connector on the diagram. Can you verify only 4 of 6 connections used? What pin identification on the chassis connector contains the white wire you mention?
 
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Old 04-06-23, 12:01 PM
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Yes only 4 of the six possible connections have wires. Pin 2
 
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Old 04-06-23, 12:04 PM
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Perhaps I misspoke, there are 2 six connector plugs
 
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Old 04-06-23, 03:58 PM
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A connector has 2 halves. Usually one half has plugs and the other half has sockets. Is this what you are saying or are there 2 physical 6 connection connectors? In the diagram, one half of chassis connector pin 2 goes to one side of the reverse switch and the other half of pin 2 goes to L on the ignition switch. You state the wire on pin 2 goes into the engine so something is not correct.
 
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Old 04-06-23, 10:10 PM
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A white wire going to a kohler engine is usually a charging wire in my experience. It generally goes to the center wire or 3 on a plug on the voltage regulator. If your model doesn't have a regulator, it would go to a diode (which is probably blown) and the diode can be replaced if the alternator stator itself isn't burned out.
 
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Old 04-07-23, 10:41 AM
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The regulator is what I am thinking. Googling how to test Kohler Regulator now. Wil take off the cover to confirm the wire goes there, but it is heading that way.
 
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Old 04-07-23, 05:27 PM
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You can just tell by connecting the 6 terminal plug and watch the test light. If unplugging the regulator makes the light go out and everything else but the fuel solenoid is plugged in, then the regulator is your problem.
 
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