Spark Plug Non Foulers

My 1963 18 hp OMC aircooled engine has always liked to foul its spark plugs sooner or later depending on how long I have to drive it slow, or idle it for longer than I should. I bought some "hotter" NGK plugs to put in it, but they are extending into the cylinder a quarter inch more than the standard plugs. I am not sure without more testing whether this extra length will come too close to any other moving parts but guy in my Club said to try some Non foulers. (I had never heard of those) They apparently take the plug UP and out of the cylinder head to supposedly do their job. I am interested in hearing any success or failure stories from users of those? The last thing I want to do is burn a hole in the top of the pistons, or something even worse! (from using NON Foulers!

 

I would never use a longer plug. That could be disastrous.... especially if it hits the piston.

 

LOL that was what crossed my mind when I saw how long these new NGK "hot" plugs were. I have a pair of non fouler adapters coming tomorrow from NAPA. I will try those with the NGK standard plugs first, and then with the longer NGKs (which will be up and out of the cylinder) when installed with the non foul adapters.

 

Back 30 years ago I used non foulers on an old chevy truck with a straight six engine that I had. It burnt oil so fast I didn't even change it, it changed itself. I agree with not using longer plugs than specified.

 

Hi Chuck, This OMC engine doesn't inhale oil but I can see the black haze on the plugs I just put in last week when I took them out to put the non foulers in.today (I stayed away from the longer HOTTER plugs) This engine deserves another rebuild, and would probably be a lot more tunable if I did.

 

are you sure its oil fouled or just running to rich the later is likely fixable with some carb work.

 

Alan, I have two jets on top of this Zenith carburetor, I set them at the setting suggested in the owner manual. If I set either one of them LEANER the engine quits running. If I open them up RICHER I get a lot of white smoke out the back. When I get the settings leaner to the point where the engine is close to stalling but is still running, it will not throttle up when I need it to. The last rebuild was 20 years ago. I drive it every day, just short trips. If I change or clean the plugs, it will run for awhile then start to load up where I KNOW the engine may stall and not start again, unless I change, or clean the plugs. Carburetor was rebuilt with all new parts this past winter. the float setting has ALWAYS had to be set a bit lower than the factory spec or it will flood the system, and leak. The plugs have black oily soot on them when I take them out. There is definitely some oil usage, just not what I consider excessive.