Tecumseh Parts...

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  #1  
Old 09-08-01, 03:07 AM
mikejmerritt
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Here is the problem. I have a stack of Tecumseh short blocks in the boxes with #'s. I can look at these and determine what HP but of course there are many of the same HP with different #'s. Without bugging a dealer because there are so many how do I get descriptions of the blocks. The best I have found is Western Auto Tecumseh Database. Searching for instance 5 HP short blocks brings up many but only retail price. Searching by part # finds a given part and price but no description such as shaft size, shaft configuration and other info. There must be a good way to do this and if anyone knows please let me know. Also, I hope this isn't considered spam(which I hate) but if any of our good forum members need any of these blocks I must make some room in the shop and will let them go at good rates. Tom, if this is not a good idea feel free to edit the last part of this message to get it in line...Thanks All...Mike
 
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  #2  
Old 09-08-01, 03:41 AM
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Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
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Hello: Mike

You might find the information your looking for by contacting the sources listed below.

Potential parts sources:

BILLIOU'S 1-209-784-4102

L.S.THORPE CO. INC. 1-617-776-2445

Disclaimer:
I do not have any affiliations nor vested interests in either of these retail parts suppliers.

Besides the model numbers, the serial number also helps to determine the differences between engine models within the same horsepower class.

I am not exactly sure what you mean by retail price only. Both suppliers listed above sell retail. Only dealers get wholesale prices. However, if your going to purchase enough parts to rebuild several engines, never hurts to request a discount...

Regards,
Tom
 
  #3  
Old 09-09-01, 01:40 AM
Joe_F
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Mike,

Contact Tecumseh directly and they should be able to help you out. Give the model and serial #s.

I used to (and probably still do) have Tecumseh microfilm at work, which probably details how to build a model # and determine what it is. If all else fails, send me the information and I'll try to find it through this microfiche.

I know if it were a Briggs and Stratton Engine, it would say right on their website how it works and how to figure out what it means. I was able to decode my Little Wonder's Edger number in five minutes and determine even when it was made. Too bad the engine is shot . On the fence about what to do with this thing as a gas edger is a pretty handy item .

I know they have model #s such as "LAV40" and the like. They have things that tell you if it is vertical shaft and so on and so forth. Check http://www.google.com and type in "deciphering Tecumseh model numbers" and maybe some "Fan of the Cheifs" has decoded all this. Wouldn't doubt there are some savvy small engine restorers out there that have information for your question.

Hope that helps and let me know...
 
  #4  
Old 09-09-01, 03:29 AM
mikejmerritt
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Thanks for the help Joe and Tom! I know what you mean about the ease if dealing with Briggs but the Chief is another story. Tecumseh site is no help because you can deal with them by email or phone only. If I had one part that would work but I have 80 short blocks with few repeating #'s. As I said in the first post the best I can find is the WA site that seems to have all of these part #'s that can be pulled up by searching the site but there is no "about" function at this site. What I mean by that is if I have a good part # I still want to see the specs on the block for configuration of shaft diameter, length, key and threading to make sure I would end up with the right part if I was ordering. What my goal here is is to identify these blocks without having to open each box. A sample of #'s are 750336-SBV321, 710543-SBV1543, 710458A, 754173A-SBH4173. I suppose in that there are 76 more you can see that I wouldn't ask a dealer, you or anyone to run these #'s because it could take some time. Hey Joe, I'll send you the 80 #'s and you send me your Briggs for building and we'll both be where we want to be....Mike
 
  #5  
Old 09-09-01, 06:18 AM
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Hi: Mike

I guess I misunderstood exactly what you wanted to know in your first posting. The second posting helped clearify what you want to accomplish. I hope the information below helps. It's directly from the Lauson Power Products Service Manual.

The "Tecumseh Chief" engine code decipher list.

V = Vertical Shaft
LAV = Lightweight Aluminum Vertical {engine}
VM = Vertical Medium Frame {engine}
TVM = Tecumseh Vertical {medium frame}
VH = Vertical Heavy Duty {cast iron}
TVS = Tecumseh Vertical Shaft
TNT = Toro N' Tecumseh
ECV = Exclusive Craftsman Vertical
OVM = Overhead Valve vetical Medium Frame {engine}
H = Horizonal Shaft
HS = Horizonal Small Frame {engine}
HM = Horizonal Medium Frame {engine}
HHM = Horizonal Heavy Duty {cast iron} Medium Frame {engine}
HH = Horizonal Heavy Duty {cast iron}
ECH = Exclusive Craftsman Horizonal

An Example is: TVS90-43056A serial # 8310C

TVS = Tecumseh Vetical Shaft
90 = 9 Cubic Inche Displacement
43056A = specific number for parts identification
8310C = serial number
8 = year of manufacturing {1978}
310 = calendar day of the year {310th day in year of 1978}
C = means the assembly line and shift the engine was built.SBH = Short Block Horizonal
SBV = Short Block Vertical
OH = Overhead Valve Heavy Duty {cast iron}

Examples: OH160...OH120
Overhead Valve 160 equals 16 horsepower
Overhead Valve 120 equals 12 horsepower
=========================================================
Briggs and Stratton engine code decipher list.

The first or two digits indicate the "Cubic Inch Displacement"

The first digit after the displacement indicates the "Basic Design Series"

The second digit after the displacement indicates "Position Of Crankshaft and Type of Carburetor."

The third digit indicates "Type of Bearings" and whether the engine has a "Reduction Gear" or an "Auxiliary Drive."

The last digit indicates the "Type of Starter."

Cubic Inch Displacements are listed between 6 to 42.

Basic design series {first digit after displacement} are listed between 0 to 9.

Second Digit After Displacement are listed 0 to 9:
Crankshaft, Carburetor and Governor types:

0 = Horizonal Diaphram
1 = Horizonal Vacu-Jet
2 = Horizonal Pulsa-Jet
3 = Horizonal Flo- Jet with Pneumatic Governor
4 = Horizonal Flo-Jet with Mechanical Governor
5 = Vetical
6 = No Listing Indicated in service manual
7 = Vertical Flo-Jet
8 = No Listing Indicated in service manual
9 = Vertical Pulsa-Jet

Third Digit After Displacement:
Bearings, Reduction Gears and Auxiliary Drives types:

0 = Plain Bearing
1 = Flange Mounting Plain Bearing
2 = Replacement Bearing
3 = Flange Mounting Ball Bearing
4 = No Listing in this service manual
5 = Gear Reduction of 6 to 1
6 = Gear Reduction of 6 to 1 with Reverse Rotation
7 = No Listing in this service manual
8 = Auxiliary Drive Perpendicular to Crankshaft
9 = Auxiliary Drive Parallel to Crankshaft

Fourth Digit After Displacement:
Type Of Starter Used:

0 = Without Starter
1 = Rope Starter
2 = Rewind Starter
3 = Electric Starter 120 Volt Gear Drive
4 = Electric Starter with generator 12 Volt with Belt Drive
5 = Electric Starter Only 12 Volt Gear Drive
6 = Alternator Only*
7 = Electric Starter 6 or 12 Volt W/Gear Drive & Alternator
8 = Vertical Pull Starter
* Digit 6 was used for "Wind Up Starters.

Starter Position:
V = Vertical Pull Starter

Oil Fill and Drain:
CS = Carb Side
OC = Opposite Carburetor
D = Dual Side

Governor Types:
AV = Air Vane
M = Mechanical

Controls:
MF = Manual Friction
R = Remote
AG = adjustable for a constant speed of operation {RPM}

I/C Series means Industrial/Commerical applications.

TS = Toms Suggestion...
PS = Print and Save...

Regards and Good Luck
Tom
 
  #6  
Old 09-09-01, 12:50 PM
Joe_F
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Ok Mike. If shipping the thing didn't destroy the benefit, I might consider that. (Where are you? NYC here) I'm sure it's got major slop in the crankshaft as I can move it up and down by hand. Not sure what would be needed to get it running right again (and not leaking)

Tom Bartco: Recall that I had a spraying oil leak on my Little Wonder 3.5 Briggs Horizontal shaft. Above is the reason. The crank is flopping around in there and making a huge void for this oil to pass through!

It sounds like Tom has you under control. I'm sure the microfiche has the same information on it as Tom furnished. If not, let me know and I'll try to figure out what you can't from here. Maybe we can work something out.
 
  #7  
Old 09-10-01, 04:58 PM
mikejmerritt
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Tom, This is exactly what I needed! Thanks!!! It has been printed for the future.
Joe, On the Briggs, If the slop is up and down and oil is getting by the seal because of this it indicates a great deal of wear at the shaft or in the crankcase side cover or both. This could be because the engine has a million hours or a little grit got to the shaft/side plate journal and wore one or both of them down. The only way to know is to pull the side plate and put a micrometer on the shaft and the journal it rides in. If there is more than 2-3 1/1000 between the two the shaft and or the side plate may need to be replaced. LMK what you want to do if this is the case. I can supply you with a good crank and side cover which should do the trick if it runs well(no smoking or fouling plugs) but do consider the overall condition of the engine to determine if it is worth the effort. You seem like a fellow that takes pride in his toys and if you want your engine rebuilt I would like to show you what we can do. Get a rebuild kit from Stens(despite what a Briggs dealer will tell you this is a fine kit) or other aftermarket parts supply for this engine with a +.020 piston and ring set, rod, valves and gaskets and I'll make a new out of it for you. I have the valve guides if needed. Take it down to the short block and send it (my guess is $20 tops both ways) to me in MS. Get back if you want to do it and we'll get her bored out and ready to put back together.....Mike
 
  #8  
Old 09-10-01, 11:33 PM
Joe_F
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Ok, Mike thanks. I will probably pitch it or replace the motor though . It has a lot of miles on it. Doing the math, it's probably cheaper to swap in another motor.

Thanks for the compliments. I try to keep all my motorized (and other) equipment in top running order. I keep an active file of all receipts, bills, and parts I put into everything, marking the receipts with dates and all that. I can tell you everything I've done to a piece of equipment that I own .

It needs some other parts as well. It was a junker that my landscaping neighbor pitched.

I was on a roll picking up scrapped equipment...I fixed a 1988 Craftsman mower and a 1981 Toro power shovel a different neighbor discarded. I got both working great with an hour's TLC BETWEEN the two of them. About a week before that, my grandfather wound up with a "rebuilt" Hosemobile for his property because I grabbed one of those and called Hosemobile and they sent me the parts to rebuild it for free. I only "recycle" what I can make like new again .

I used the Craftsman the next day at my grandfather's 80x100 property (and I just used it Sunday). Runs strong. If my neighbor saw that...lol, he'd be kicking himself for buying a new 500 dollar Toro machine to replace it. The power shovel needed some attention at the trigger switch and I greased the gearcase with white grease and that solved the horrible screeching noise at the auger. In fact, I have two other ones like it, 1979 models, which I took apart and did the same thing. Quiet now!

 
  #9  
Old 07-27-09, 05:19 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 1
Howdy:
I am looking for a tecumesh short block # 752270 SBV2270. 1" dia keyed shaft about 3 1/2".

Thank you for the info
 
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