Where to buy parts ?

Old 10-27-01, 11:07 AM
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Hiya .. new here .. i'll get right to point and sorry in advance if i do (or say) anything wrong ...
Can you just order parts through your local Small Engine Repair shop? or on-line? or local garage supply?
I need to get a briggs & stratton flywheel puller (or do i?) and consequently (possibly) condenser & point(s) part?
Kinda new to me, and i don't want to walk into a shop and embarrass myself ..
thnx ..
Old 10-27-01, 01:51 PM
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Hi flopsitter,

Are you absolutely sure it's the contact points and condenser that are bad? Before you going buying all these parts for your mower, what seems to be the problem with it? If we know of your 'syptoms' we might be able to diagnose your problem.

But if you're sure that its the contact points, then they very cheap and can be purchased individually or in a small bundle pack, at any local Lowes or Home Depot store. (At a local auto parts store by me, they sell a bundle pack that includes a new spark plug, flywheel key, condenser and contact point all for $4.00) Perfect for a nice lil' tuneup.

As for the flywheel puller, those have to be purchased from a local small engine service shop, or from a website like the one below for around $5.31.


These are just some options that I hope can help.

Good Luck with your endeavour.
Old 10-27-01, 02:11 PM
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Post all of the engine's model numbers so we know
exactly what you have and you don't waste money on
things you don't need.. If your engine has points,
there are other, better options to choose from that
don't involve pulling the flywheel. Just let us know.
Old 10-28-01, 01:10 AM
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Problems are ...

hiya .. thnx for replies ...
First engine is: B&S 3HP, Horiz. shaft,could not locate model$ serial number etc .. on a small Mastercraft rototiller. It worked great since i bought it in spring. Bought it off little old lady who couldn't garden anymore. Sat in her garden under a tarp for a year. Started on third pull, ran great the three or so times i used it during summer ... went to give little garden a final fall tillage, and the thing would not start. checked for spark, no spark, tried three brand new plugs, still no spark (although, i am sure i felt a tingle when holding the plug against engine....)... so i don't know where else to go other than points and/or condenser ... can these just be cleaned up ?
I have never taken off a flywheel, i have a Haynes Small Engine manual though (just bought it the other day to help with this problem) ...

Second engine: on an old rototiller from local dump junk pile (i drive garbage truck for a living ... i find all sorts of stuff, so you may all be hearing from me again & again...)
B&S ?HP, vertical shaft
Model: 80902
Type: 0151 01
S/N: 6307265
It has 30lbs compression, seems to be getting fuel, but again, no spark ...

Any thoughts ?

thnx in advance ..
Old 10-28-01, 01:37 AM
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Hello and Welcome flopsitter to the Do-It-Yourself Web Site and my Small Engine forum.

Before you start to remove other suspected and more difficult parts to determine why there isn't any ignition spark to the spark plug, try bypassing or disconnecting the kill switch.

If the stop/kill ignition switch or the wiring is grounding, when disconnected or bypassed, the engine will then have ingnition spark and the engine will run. Doing this FIRST before suspecting other igniton parts may save you lots of work, $$$$ and fustrations.

On the second engine you discribed, the compression is too low for cold starting without any help. Try a spray of engine quick start directly into the cyclinder. Install the spark plug and start as normal. If the engine fires up, there's the answer. Low compression.

Same ignition check needs to be done on this engine as with the prior engine. Often times corrosion and or rust forms on the tiny contacts and grounds the circuit.

Regards and Good Luck,
Small Engines Forum Moderator
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Service and Repair Technician.
Old 10-31-01, 05:24 AM
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A couple of things that might help:


That is B&S website. You can decode your engine by what you posted.

Yes, B&S would likely refer you to a dealer for parts. Look in the phone book. There are literally thousands of them in the country. As Frosty said, many better parts stores have access to small engine kits or can order them. Things like spark plugs and filters are available just about anywhere this stuff is sold.

Simple stuff first. You'd be surprised why someone throws something out. Ask my neighbor who's using his 1981 Toro snow shovel and 1988 Craftsman mower now . I was considering putting a copy of the photo of the 68 Craftsman toolbox I restored last week in the guy's mailbox that threw it out. People throw out some good stuff...and more importantly, you will learn from what you putter with. No doubt about it!

That being said, look for me in one of the upcoming Sears/Craftsman Club newsletters. I won a contest and they are going to use my project photos and stories in one of the upcoming publications .

Autographed copies provided at no charge. Lol.

Good luck with your "finds".
Old 11-01-01, 07:42 AM
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Before you tear the top off, how was the tiller stored after the last use. If it was left outside, there may be water in the carb. I'm bad for doing that myself. If you are going to have to open the top and it's a reoil starter, you probaly should also get the B&S starter clutch wrench to get that off before you even try to get the flywheel off.
Old 11-01-01, 11:37 AM
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proper tools ...

Re. starter clutch puller (?) i am taking the plunge and ordering a clutch puller (one that uses a 1" socket ... i think that may me better than the one with just a handle) and a flywheel knock-off tool (guy at local shop says knock-off tool is easier ? i dunno ..) as well as a strap wrench ( a good one $75 or so ...)

The tiller was outside, but under a table ... i know it is my own fault ... it is just so annoying ...

oh well thnx for the replies ..
Old 11-01-01, 12:55 PM
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$75 dollars, are you sure you want to put that much money into getting that this running? There will be other tillers out there in your future. I'd say let this one die. $75 could be better spent towards a new tiller.
Old 11-01-01, 04:58 PM
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Hey flopsitter

Have you bypassed the ignition switch???????????????

To everyone in general:
Why is there so many postings here on this one topic???

In reply once again:
The compression on that one engine is "TOO LOW" to support combustion. PERIOD! {Unless the compression test wasn't done correctly and 30 PSI isn't correct!}

Any engine that does not have spark, it is not always necessary to pull the flywheel. However, if one wants to, go ahead.

It is always a good idea to verify that HOW we check for spark is more important. As in another posting, it was correctly noted that the spark plug has to be grounded to SEE a spark.

If the plug is not grounded correctly, there will not be a spark. That shouldn't mean to imply the next step is pulling the flywheel off.

How about the SIMPLE things first.
Verify spark by properly grounding the plug.
How about the IGNITION SWITCH.
Has that been checked????
Bypass or disconnect the switch.
Attempt to start the engine.
If engine still fails to start,

The last item anyone should be removing is a flywheel.
Especially those whom have never have done this B-4.

The point here is to "KEEP IT SIMPLE" until one is absolutely possitive all other options have been checked and rechecked.

Small Engine Forums Moderator
Old 11-02-01, 10:51 AM
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On the older briggs the only engine cutoff switch
was just a metal tab that flipped over to ground
out the top of the plug. In general, if you see a
wire going under the flywheel, then you have points
and you need to pull the flywheel to service them.
If you want to avoid buying the tools required, there
is a module that Briggs sells that attaches to the
old coil and replaces the points and does not require
flywheel removal. I use this anymore, but every now and
then , the original coil itself is bad and then I go back
with the post 1983 electronic ignition coil and just cut
the wire to the points. If someone is doing their own
repair, I recommend this over other choices, since if
you bought the electronic ignition upgrade, and the coil
was bad, then you would be stuck with something you
wouldn't need. If you bought the new coil to begin with,
two bolts and you are done!
As far as compressions readings go, they are very
misleading on small engines as they all have a compression
release and some can fool you easily. Try turning the
flywheel backwards, it should be difficult, and is an
indicator of compression. If it spins with a small
amount of resistance , then you have a serious compression
As far as removing a flywheel goes, I use a knocker and
a prybar, one hit and it is done. No damage, and they only
cost a couple of bucks. Let me know.
Old 11-02-01, 03:30 PM
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Thread killed ...

Hiya .. moderator is correct ... i will try everything mentioned thus far. Thnx for the info ... i'll let you know how i make out ...

thread killed ..

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