No spark w/ ground wire off or on ...
#1
11-18-01, 12:14 AM
No spark w/ ground wire off or on ...
Hiya .. me again , finally got around to looking at small rototiller.
Briggs & Stratton 3.5 HP horiz. shaft engine. I have no spark with the ground/kill wire off or on. I have used a spark tester, so i am fairly sure i am not getting spark. The spark plug wire seems okay.
What's next? off with the flywheel etc .. condensor & point ?
Also ... i have bought some tools to get the starter clutch & flywheel off ... this may sound stupid, but which way does the starter clutch come off .. ?? clockwise/counter clock wise ? only reason i am asking is that it may be on there tight, and since i am new to this (and eager to learn) i don't want to force things in the wrong direction. What i may misinterpret as being tight, may actually be turning the wrong way .. it has happened before
thnx ...
Briggs & Stratton 3.5 HP horiz. shaft engine. I have no spark with the ground/kill wire off or on. I have used a spark tester, so i am fairly sure i am not getting spark. The spark plug wire seems okay.
What's next? off with the flywheel etc .. condensor & point ?
Also ... i have bought some tools to get the starter clutch & flywheel off ... this may sound stupid, but which way does the starter clutch come off .. ?? clockwise/counter clock wise ? only reason i am asking is that it may be on there tight, and since i am new to this (and eager to learn) i don't want to force things in the wrong direction. What i may misinterpret as being tight, may actually be turning the wrong way .. it has happened before
thnx ...
#2
11-18-01, 03:30 AM
Only on the real old Briggs would you encounter a left hand thread on the crank, and you need to have it real tight when
you put it back on, or it will shear the key.
While your problems are most likely points and condenser,
I have gone to all that bother and turn out needing a coil,
which if that is the case, get the coil for the newer engines
and cut the wire and don't worry about it. I usually try to
talk people into going that route in the first place, as then there
is no need to pull the clutch or flywheel, just 2 bolts and its
done.
But when you have the clutch off, take some emery cloth
and polish the crank where the clutch rides. Good luck.
If you need any help or info, e-mail me and I can send a scan
from a page or two of the Briggs manual.
Fish
Fish
you put it back on, or it will shear the key.
While your problems are most likely points and condenser,
I have gone to all that bother and turn out needing a coil,
which if that is the case, get the coil for the newer engines
and cut the wire and don't worry about it. I usually try to
talk people into going that route in the first place, as then there
is no need to pull the clutch or flywheel, just 2 bolts and its
done.
But when you have the clutch off, take some emery cloth
and polish the crank where the clutch rides. Good luck.
If you need any help or info, e-mail me and I can send a scan
from a page or two of the Briggs manual.
Fish
Fish
#3
11-18-01, 03:44 AM
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Several Other Parts 2 Check
Hello: flopsitter
The ignition wiring may be internally broken or grounded thru any point or at any securing location. Use a continuity checker to verify a continuous circuit is made along the entire length of wire.
Bypass or totally remove the kill switch from the electrical circuit and check continuity again. Also check the spark plugs ignition wire, any other electrical wire or circuit. Check and or replace the spark plug with a new one. Test the plug in another engine, etc.
Do not forget to also check the magneto for electrical continuity!
Once you have verified, without any doubts, that all parts are electrically sound and correct, only then is it necessary to remove the flywheel. Under the flywheel are the ignition points and condenser if the engine is equipped with them.
Of course, you did not indicate here what type of spark ignition system is in fact on this machinery nor it's engines model and year of manufacture, etc. These are important so we can best advise you what your dealing with and exactly how to proceed.
The best method, in this forum or any other forum on this web site, is to always locate the orginal posted question, then use the reply button, if the topic {question} has already been posted prior.
Using the reply button allows the topic to continue, so those who want to reply can follow along. Seem's I remember something about this topic or a similar question but I cannot find it...
Generic mechanics rules: {Humor}
If the part doesn't unscrew in this direction...turn it the other direction...hahaha....
If neither direction works...it may not be screwed on.
If you have to remove it...
use a BIGGER wrench, more FORCE or use a HAMMER!...
FYI:
Briggs has a special tool for removing the clutch. Turning it counterclock wise while holding the flywheel with a strap wrench, is the method.
The clutch has to be installed tightly. It's holding the flywheel on and installed tightly insures that the flywheel is fully seated onto the keyway and one end of the crankshaft.
Regards and Good Luck,
Small Engine Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart.....Enterprises
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostic Service and Repair Technician.
The ignition wiring may be internally broken or grounded thru any point or at any securing location. Use a continuity checker to verify a continuous circuit is made along the entire length of wire.
Bypass or totally remove the kill switch from the electrical circuit and check continuity again. Also check the spark plugs ignition wire, any other electrical wire or circuit. Check and or replace the spark plug with a new one. Test the plug in another engine, etc.
Do not forget to also check the magneto for electrical continuity!
Once you have verified, without any doubts, that all parts are electrically sound and correct, only then is it necessary to remove the flywheel. Under the flywheel are the ignition points and condenser if the engine is equipped with them.
Of course, you did not indicate here what type of spark ignition system is in fact on this machinery nor it's engines model and year of manufacture, etc. These are important so we can best advise you what your dealing with and exactly how to proceed.
The best method, in this forum or any other forum on this web site, is to always locate the orginal posted question, then use the reply button, if the topic {question} has already been posted prior.
Using the reply button allows the topic to continue, so those who want to reply can follow along. Seem's I remember something about this topic or a similar question but I cannot find it...
Generic mechanics rules: {Humor}
If the part doesn't unscrew in this direction...turn it the other direction...hahaha....
If neither direction works...it may not be screwed on.
If you have to remove it...
use a BIGGER wrench, more FORCE or use a HAMMER!...
FYI:
Briggs has a special tool for removing the clutch. Turning it counterclock wise while holding the flywheel with a strap wrench, is the method.
The clutch has to be installed tightly. It's holding the flywheel on and installed tightly insures that the flywheel is fully seated onto the keyway and one end of the crankshaft.
Regards and Good Luck,
Small Engine Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart.....Enterprises
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostic Service and Repair Technician.
