Is my engine likely to be damaged?
#1
Is my engine likely to be damaged?
I have the luck of the "Born Loser". I have never had a problem with the starting system in my lawn tractor until today. I had just drained the tractor of gas and oil and was putting cylinder fogging oil in both cylinders for storage. The instructions said to turn the engine over a few times to distribute the oil in the cylinders. So I just turned the key since there was no danger of it starting with the sparkplugs out. I let the motor turn for about 2 seconds and released the key. But the starter stuck on as I desperately moved the key to every possible position, hit the key switch with my hand and then tried to get the negative battery terminal off. Realizing this would take too long I bashed the ignition switch with a wrench and it finally quit. I don't know how long the engine rotated but there was no oil in the sump and only whatever amount of fogging oil I got into the cylinders. It seemed like a minute or so. Is it likely that this caused any serious engine damage since it never started?
#4
Sorry,
I like to know what engine I am talking about so I can give as
accurate advice as possible, not to just say it is this or that and
you run out and replace both. A few engines have the solenoid
on top of the starter, but most are bolted on the framerail.
The only real danger with your problem is that if it is the keyswitch
that is bad, it could send 12v to your ignition and destroy your
coil. So knowing what engine you have would be nice so I
can tell you how to prevent any further damage[if any]. And if
you have already bought a new keyswitch, it may look identical
but it might not be, and the wrong keyswitch can destoy the coil
too. Let us know and we will be glad to help.
Fish
I like to know what engine I am talking about so I can give as
accurate advice as possible, not to just say it is this or that and
you run out and replace both. A few engines have the solenoid
on top of the starter, but most are bolted on the framerail.
The only real danger with your problem is that if it is the keyswitch
that is bad, it could send 12v to your ignition and destroy your
coil. So knowing what engine you have would be nice so I
can tell you how to prevent any further damage[if any]. And if
you have already bought a new keyswitch, it may look identical
but it might not be, and the wrong keyswitch can destoy the coil
too. Let us know and we will be glad to help.
Fish
#5
Fish, Did i say go out and buy this or that,NO Did i say it was this or that well yes it could only be 2 things and most likley it is a stuck soloniod, I am quite aware of where soloniods are on diffrent engine's,, To Get a correct igntion switch you need to know make and model and serial number of the equipment, Least thats how i have to order switches is by make and model of equipment, Thus if one has the right swith theirs no way in heck your going to plug it in wrong that it will send 12Vlts to the Magento/Coil, In years i have not yet seen one burnt up by this trick i know its possiable, but havent seen anyone do it , Unless Wiring up their own harness with out the plug then yes it would be easy if you dont know what your doing. My Vote is a stuck soloniod, I have a Tow tractor i use to tow ones into the shop and thru the yard out here, that whene they come in and dont run, Every time i started it i had to watch it like a hawk, till i got a soloniod on it it could be setting their running and all of a sudden the starter kicks in, http://www.CandSSmallEngineRepair.Com
#6
I refuse to argue with you over this or anything else. In my
first post I asked for a tractor brand and model numbers.
Engine as well. You are so bent on starting trouble that you
cannot see the forest for the trees.
So are you saying he should replace the solenoid? First?
Then if not, the starter switch? If you are going to give input,
at least let it be beneficial to the original poster.
Fish
first post I asked for a tractor brand and model numbers.
Engine as well. You are so bent on starting trouble that you
cannot see the forest for the trees.
So are you saying he should replace the solenoid? First?
Then if not, the starter switch? If you are going to give input,
at least let it be beneficial to the original poster.
Fish
#7
Im Not arguing a damn thing here fish, YES Im Saying check the solonoid first to see if it is sticking alowing the starter to stay running, Its not to hard to figure out if its stuck im trying to be benificial to the poster your about as freindly as a polar bear with a thorn in its foot, Beyond me how any one that gets to snappy with people in this forum and others, Making out like their stupid all the time, Has anyone that listens to great, Im not the one arguing am i im just stating opions as you and you get all bent out of whack GROW UP FISH, For 1/2 a year now i have seen you repeatdly Snap at some one or Mis well say their stupid, ,,
All the time your making remarks at me why????? are you afraid i know something you dont????
Now to the orignial poster
To Check if the solionoid is stuck alowing the starter to stay cranking if you can get to the Plug in at the back of the switch while it's Cranking with out key in start postion, unplug the switch if it Stop's Then its the switch, If It Keeps going its the soloniod, Chances are it may not do it again for 1 day 2weks or maybe a year but i would say that the soloniod got stuck,
All the time your making remarks at me why????? are you afraid i know something you dont????
Now to the orignial poster
To Check if the solionoid is stuck alowing the starter to stay cranking if you can get to the Plug in at the back of the switch while it's Cranking with out key in start postion, unplug the switch if it Stop's Then its the switch, If It Keeps going its the soloniod, Chances are it may not do it again for 1 day 2weks or maybe a year but i would say that the soloniod got stuck,
#8
PS> dont make it out like im the bad guy either fish i have plenty of post printed out where you Came lashed out at me whene i was trying to help someone, Plus your post saying i drink to much, well Maybe you ought to get rid of the damn bottle and you might be little frendiler
#10
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 9,927
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6 Posts
NOTE TO BOTH BRIGGS_MAN AND FISHER
It is both non beneficial to the person posting a question and those whom read the postings, within this forum, to also have to read disagreements pertaining to possible problems or potential solutions and irrelevant personal disputes.
I am convinced, by reading the replies you both have already posted to other questions, that both of you have expert professional experience and knowledge to offer helpful advice to those asking questions within this forum.
I am also convinced that both of you would agree the dispute reflected within the topic is both NON beneficial and NON professional of each other and to everyone else.
Therefore, I am requesting you both cease posting disagreements and personal disputes within my forum.
I would surely not want to rescind either or both of your opportunities to continue to post within this forum.
However, if such continues here within this reply or within other replies, etc. the rescind {Stop} action would be required and acted upon. Forcing me into doing so, would be a loss to myself, my forum and all potential clients of this forum.
Sincerely,
Forum Moderator
TomB.....
It is both non beneficial to the person posting a question and those whom read the postings, within this forum, to also have to read disagreements pertaining to possible problems or potential solutions and irrelevant personal disputes.
I am convinced, by reading the replies you both have already posted to other questions, that both of you have expert professional experience and knowledge to offer helpful advice to those asking questions within this forum.
I am also convinced that both of you would agree the dispute reflected within the topic is both NON beneficial and NON professional of each other and to everyone else.
Therefore, I am requesting you both cease posting disagreements and personal disputes within my forum.
I would surely not want to rescind either or both of your opportunities to continue to post within this forum.
However, if such continues here within this reply or within other replies, etc. the rescind {Stop} action would be required and acted upon. Forcing me into doing so, would be a loss to myself, my forum and all potential clients of this forum.
Sincerely,
Forum Moderator
TomB.....
#11
Toall that read
Tom i will be a man and say to you and others im sorry, Just didnt take the remark that i was trying to start trouble. When all i was doing was trying to give a opion(S) and help, Im Sorry for now on i'll Not bicker with Fish well let him sink his own boat, LOL I dont want mine sunk
Tom Have a good evening and again sorry,
Note To Briggs_Man:
Your apology to my forum is both excepted and welcomed.
No apology to me personally is needed nor required.
Your expert advice to the forum is very much valued and appreciated. Your a valued asset to my forum topic on Small Engines. Kindly continue to reply to questions posted.....
Regards and Thanks,
Small Engine Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart.....Enterprises
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostic Service and Repair Technician.
Personal Quote:
"If it ain't already broke, don't fix or tinker with it until it is broken!"
Tom Have a good evening and again sorry,
Note To Briggs_Man:
Your apology to my forum is both excepted and welcomed.
No apology to me personally is needed nor required.
Your expert advice to the forum is very much valued and appreciated. Your a valued asset to my forum topic on Small Engines. Kindly continue to reply to questions posted.....
Regards and Thanks,
Small Engine Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart.....Enterprises
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostic Service and Repair Technician.
Personal Quote:
"If it ain't already broke, don't fix or tinker with it until it is broken!"
Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-01-01 at 03:30 PM.
#12
I am sorry our web spat has showed up here. I don't have
any desire to bicker on your forum and am sorry.
Fish
====================
Reply Note To Fisher: {Fish}
Your apology to my forum is equally excepted and welcomed.
No personal apology to me is needed nor required.
Your expert advice to the forum is equally valued and appreciated.
Your a valued asset to my forum topic of Small Engine repairs. Your welcomed to continue to reply to questions posted.....
Regards and Thanks,
Small Engine Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart.....Enterprises
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostic Service and Repair Technician.
any desire to bicker on your forum and am sorry.
Fish
====================
Reply Note To Fisher: {Fish}
Your apology to my forum is equally excepted and welcomed.
No personal apology to me is needed nor required.
Your expert advice to the forum is equally valued and appreciated.
Your a valued asset to my forum topic of Small Engine repairs. Your welcomed to continue to reply to questions posted.....
Regards and Thanks,
Small Engine Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart.....Enterprises
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostic Service and Repair Technician.
Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-01-01 at 08:31 PM.
#13
Folks:
A word of opinion here. And just that. So take it for what it's worth.
1) The more information the merrier. No detail is too small (as you can see from my signature file.)
2) Sometimes there are updated bulletins, parts, etc (in automotive, this happens all the time). Hence, knowing the model, serial and other pertinent equipment data helps...additionally so because many of us in the trade know what models had problems and also we know "we've read about those somewhere". I agree with Fish 110%.
I can tell you that I must answer 5 or so posts a week in the automotive forum where there is no pertinent vehicle data. And many times there are multiple engines of the same displacement in a given year or the fact of knowing the vehicle rings a bell after hearing the problem, knowing the vehicle and putting the two together. Shoot, sometimes, someone's posted something with a vehicle that's still under warranty and they get the repair done for free as a result!
3) The Model and serial #s are going to be needed to get parts and such, so might as well look 'em up.
My .02, but the more the merrier as the aforementioned said. I have read both Briggs Man's and Fish's reply. Both of you guys are experts in your field, I can tell by your replies. I have learned a few things reading them, and I have been putzing with things mechanical since I was 5 years old .
A word of opinion here. And just that. So take it for what it's worth.
1) The more information the merrier. No detail is too small (as you can see from my signature file.)
2) Sometimes there are updated bulletins, parts, etc (in automotive, this happens all the time). Hence, knowing the model, serial and other pertinent equipment data helps...additionally so because many of us in the trade know what models had problems and also we know "we've read about those somewhere". I agree with Fish 110%.
I can tell you that I must answer 5 or so posts a week in the automotive forum where there is no pertinent vehicle data. And many times there are multiple engines of the same displacement in a given year or the fact of knowing the vehicle rings a bell after hearing the problem, knowing the vehicle and putting the two together. Shoot, sometimes, someone's posted something with a vehicle that's still under warranty and they get the repair done for free as a result!
3) The Model and serial #s are going to be needed to get parts and such, so might as well look 'em up.
My .02, but the more the merrier as the aforementioned said. I have read both Briggs Man's and Fish's reply. Both of you guys are experts in your field, I can tell by your replies. I have learned a few things reading them, and I have been putzing with things mechanical since I was 5 years old .
Last edited by Joe_F; 12-03-01 at 07:18 AM.
#14
I do wish danengr would post back with findings. It may well be that there was nothing wrong with anything and nothing is damaged beyond the mutilated switch. It is possible that the lack of resistance (no plugs) caused the starter to zing through to fast and the solenoid was just stuck but undamaged.....Mike
#15
Is it not possible that the bendix went to far and hung in the flywheel? Seems I have had this to happen with both auto and small engine starters. The keeper on the shaft gets bad, or the nose to the starter gets worn and will not allow the bendix to return. Like I say, I think this has happend to me and wish someone could confirm the possibilty of it.
As I think about it, I guess when the bendix gets stuck in the flywheel, the motor keeps turning the starter, not the other way around.
Bit then again, I know I had an auto starte.... Nevermind, little confused. Someone straighten me out? Cutiuos now.
As I think about it, I guess when the bendix gets stuck in the flywheel, the motor keeps turning the starter, not the other way around.
Bit then again, I know I had an auto starte.... Nevermind, little confused. Someone straighten me out? Cutiuos now.