5 KW Generator with 10 HP Engine
#1
5 KW Generator with 10 HP Engine
I have a Coleman 5 kw generator witha 10 HP engine with relatively few hours on it. The engine starts up great, runs till warm (approx 5 minutes) and then stops. I cannot start the unit until it cools down. The unit has a low oil shutoff. The oil level is a little over full.
What other than the sensor could be at fault?
How difficult is it to disconnect the sensor?
If I disconnect the sensor, I assume I close the circuit.
What other than the sensor could be at fault?
How difficult is it to disconnect the sensor?
If I disconnect the sensor, I assume I close the circuit.
#2
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
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Fuel Starvation and or Ignition System Problem
Hello and Welcome JPL to my Small Engine forum.
The possibilities could be water in the gas, a plugged vent hole in the gas cap, restricted carb, carb bowls fuel level, stuck carb fuel float, etc and or an ignition failure.
If your positive the fuel isn't contaminated with water or stale, run the engine without the fuel cap on the tank and see what happens. If the condition fails to show up, the vent hole in the fuel cap is the problem.
If the above test does not cure the problem, test fuel flow out of the tank, through the entire system by removing the fuel line at the carb. If the fuel flow deminishes or stops flowing without the cap installed, there is a restriction somewhere in the fuel delivery system. Check for a fuel filter.
If this test proves not to be the cause, the problem could be in the carb and or in the ignition system. Also check the spark plug and air filter.
You can test the oil sensor if you like but reconnect it when completed or replace the safety device. I do not recommend bypassing any safety device permanently.
Regards and Good Luck, Small Engine Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart.....TCB4U2B2B.....Company Enterprises.
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostics Services and Repair.
During installations of some parts that may not fit exactly perfect, it may be necessary to apply "BRUTE" force in order to compel compliance.........{.....just humor folks... }
Personal Quote:
"If it ain't already broke, don't fix it, tinker with it or $#@&*&%$#@! with it until you do break it!"
The possibilities could be water in the gas, a plugged vent hole in the gas cap, restricted carb, carb bowls fuel level, stuck carb fuel float, etc and or an ignition failure.
If your positive the fuel isn't contaminated with water or stale, run the engine without the fuel cap on the tank and see what happens. If the condition fails to show up, the vent hole in the fuel cap is the problem.
If the above test does not cure the problem, test fuel flow out of the tank, through the entire system by removing the fuel line at the carb. If the fuel flow deminishes or stops flowing without the cap installed, there is a restriction somewhere in the fuel delivery system. Check for a fuel filter.
If this test proves not to be the cause, the problem could be in the carb and or in the ignition system. Also check the spark plug and air filter.
You can test the oil sensor if you like but reconnect it when completed or replace the safety device. I do not recommend bypassing any safety device permanently.
Regards and Good Luck, Small Engine Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart.....TCB4U2B2B.....Company Enterprises.
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostics Services and Repair.
During installations of some parts that may not fit exactly perfect, it may be necessary to apply "BRUTE" force in order to compel compliance.........{.....just humor folks... }
Personal Quote:
"If it ain't already broke, don't fix it, tinker with it or $#@&*&%$#@! with it until you do break it!"
#3
Coleman Generator
After shutting itself down, and vent cap removed the motor will not start until it cools. The engine then will start and run until hot and again shut itself down.
So the clogged gas cap, and contaminated fuel doesn't follow.
What is a good source for an engine manual?
I seem to recall that this sensor could produce such an effect. Do you have any insight on why it happens after the engine comes up to temperature.
Is there a temperature sensor on these engines (something like a Klixon bi-metallic switch) that opens or closes at a temperature threshold? That would explain the cool down for the switch to reset itself.
What type of sensor is used to sense low oil? Is it a float sensor or a pressure sensor typically that is used? Are they typically wired such that this safety circuit is active only when the engine gets to temperature?
So the clogged gas cap, and contaminated fuel doesn't follow.
What is a good source for an engine manual?
I seem to recall that this sensor could produce such an effect. Do you have any insight on why it happens after the engine comes up to temperature.
Is there a temperature sensor on these engines (something like a Klixon bi-metallic switch) that opens or closes at a temperature threshold? That would explain the cool down for the switch to reset itself.
What type of sensor is used to sense low oil? Is it a float sensor or a pressure sensor typically that is used? Are they typically wired such that this safety circuit is active only when the engine gets to temperature?
#4
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When you say that the oil is a "little" overfull, how much do you mean. If you run the generator until it stops and look at the oil, does it look frothy? There may be too much oil and when it gets whipped up by the oil slinger, the low oil sensor sees a low oil condition and kills the engine. Might be worthwhile to change the oil and only put the right amount in the unit.
#5
Unplugging most low oil cutoffs will disable them,but your
problem may be valve related, especially if your engine is
an OHV, as these tend to have more problems. But you need
to isolate if you have spark, fuel and/or compression the next
time it shuts down, and go from there. Find and post some
engine numbers as well, so we know what you have.
Fish
problem may be valve related, especially if your engine is
an OHV, as these tend to have more problems. But you need
to isolate if you have spark, fuel and/or compression the next
time it shuts down, and go from there. Find and post some
engine numbers as well, so we know what you have.
Fish
#6
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
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Hello: JPL
From my prospective, it is not what insight we have to offer but rather what you have done and documented for us here.
At this point, you have determined the problem not be be related to fuel flow??? Not yet you haven't. Have you removed the fuel line from the carb and checked flow for several minutes? Both with the cap ON and with it OFF? You need to.
The idea is to attempt to determine the cause starting with the basics and not thinking engine manuals, major repairs etc. until ALL the potential small causes are elliminated.
Once the engine stops, did you check for spark? You need to. If spark is available, then that illiminates the ignition as a potential problem. That's potential not positive problem at this point.
Also check for compression, at the same time your checking for spark. If you need to know how, try this. Remove the wire boot from the spark plug, remove the plug, reinstall the boot cap to the plug and lay it on the engines head or frame.
Then install another plug into the spark plug hole of the engine. NOW pull the start rope or crank the electric starter. Same risistence on the rope? or same sound from the starter? Did you check for spark while doing this?
All this type of testing will help to determine and or isolate the cause of the problem without manuals and expensive tools or tearing the engine down for no reason. Get my drift here?
Therefore, follow fishers advice and mine first and be postive the cause isn't something small and easily correctable.
Good Luck.
From my prospective, it is not what insight we have to offer but rather what you have done and documented for us here.
At this point, you have determined the problem not be be related to fuel flow??? Not yet you haven't. Have you removed the fuel line from the carb and checked flow for several minutes? Both with the cap ON and with it OFF? You need to.
The idea is to attempt to determine the cause starting with the basics and not thinking engine manuals, major repairs etc. until ALL the potential small causes are elliminated.
Once the engine stops, did you check for spark? You need to. If spark is available, then that illiminates the ignition as a potential problem. That's potential not positive problem at this point.
Also check for compression, at the same time your checking for spark. If you need to know how, try this. Remove the wire boot from the spark plug, remove the plug, reinstall the boot cap to the plug and lay it on the engines head or frame.
Then install another plug into the spark plug hole of the engine. NOW pull the start rope or crank the electric starter. Same risistence on the rope? or same sound from the starter? Did you check for spark while doing this?
All this type of testing will help to determine and or isolate the cause of the problem without manuals and expensive tools or tearing the engine down for no reason. Get my drift here?
Therefore, follow fishers advice and mine first and be postive the cause isn't something small and easily correctable.
Good Luck.