Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

No Ignition Spark


rajung's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 138
IA

03-27-02, 02:44 PM   #1  
no spark on lawn mower

I have an MTD mower with a 4hp Tech. which is 3 years old and doesnt think Spring is here yet.
There is no spark at cable end.
Is this just a bad pick up module-not sure what its called?
also if so , do's the magnet need replaced also?
Thanks to anyone .

 
Sponsored Links
garywms's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 529
MD

03-27-02, 07:36 PM   #2  
Did it run last time you used it? Could you have run over anything with it?

 
Sharp Advice's Avatar
Admin, Forums Host & Manager

Join Date: Feb 1998
Posts: 10,440
CAL

03-27-02, 08:18 PM   #3  
Hello and Welcome rajung to our Small Engine forum.


First thing to do is replace the spark plug with a new one. Then attempt to start the engine. if it still fails to start, test for spark with the new plug. Be sure the plug is correctly grounded to the engine when it is lying across the engine.

If there is still no spark, check the engine grounding clip and the wire at both ends. The throttle cable may have a grounding clip to kill the engine.

The safety blade stop cable end operates a blade brake band and an engine kill switch, which has a grounding clip. Either of which may be grounding out.

The other resident small engine service and repair professionals and moderators, may offer alternate or additional suggestions, advice & opinions. Check back several times for additional replies.

If you need or would like further assistance after this reply and those of others replying, use the REPLY button to add any and all additional information, etc.

By doing so, the additional information you add will remain within this posting {Thread} and allow the professionals in this forum to follow the topic and reply with additional helpful advice and suggestions.

Using the above method also moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards and Good Luck, Small Engine Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart.....TCB4U2B2B.....Company Enterprises.
Fast...Fair...Friendly & Highly Efficient Services....
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostics Services and Repair.

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,567
GA

03-27-02, 09:45 PM   #4  
I agree w/|Tom...replace spark plug, and if you still don't have spark, check the engine brake/shutoff. The cable might be stretched, or not releasing the shutoff far enough.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
rajung's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 138
IA

03-29-02, 07:48 AM   #5  
Thanks for all the info.
I did replace the plug first awhile ago,also no spark right at cable end, before spark plug.
I suppose the best way to check all the wires over well is to pull upper rotor off?
Is a 3 prong jaw puller the best?
Thanks

 
Fisher's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

03-29-02, 12:10 PM   #6  
Fisher
Leave the flywheel alone, there is nothing under
it. Unplug the wire going to the bottom of the
coil and check for spark again, if you have no
spark then, the coil is bad.
Fish

 
boman's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

03-30-02, 05:43 AM   #7  
is it possible the flywheel has coat of rust on it and needs a little sanding/cleaning?

 
Fisher's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

03-30-02, 05:48 AM   #8  
Fisher
I have not ever encountered rusty magnets as causing a problem,
I sure others will disagree as it seems to be a popular suggestion.
I cannot imagine a small layer of rust affecting the magnetic
field.
Fish

 
rajung's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 138
IA

03-31-02, 08:18 AM   #9  
I removed the 2 bolts that hold the brake assy and ground wire off the engine block, then removed the spring for the return and removed the assy. from under the flywheel and checked for groun/no ground with an ohm meter and the small switch works fine.
I then reassembled and forced and held the lever forward that connects to the shut down cable and it started.
For some reason the handle is not pulling like it should causing the ground wire to make contact in the switch.
I doesnt seem the be as resistful anymore though I do not see any place for adjustment.
Do these cables stretch after a little time?
Nothing looks bent and the pull back arm seems to have slack-about half way.
Thanks again.

 
Fisher's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

03-31-02, 08:45 AM   #10  
Fisher
Does the handle/lever have any other holes it can
rest in? Or are their other holes on the handle.
Is their any bent metal where the cable attaches at the
engine? Have you switched parts?
Fish

 
rajung's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 138
IA

03-31-02, 01:07 PM   #11  
There are other holes in the main handle but they make it way too tight.
No bent metal that I can see, and I havent switched any parts.
Starting to sound too me -you get what you pay for.
Only 169.00
Maybe I should support my community and have bought a local built(?) J.D$$

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,567
GA

03-31-02, 02:52 PM   #12  
As mentioned earlier, your cable is likely the problem. The cable itself doesn't usually stretch, but the cable housing made of coiled wire will stretch and/or compress above the point where it is binding. Take the old cable off and take it to your lawnmower parts store, and get another. You may be able to spray penetrating oil on the visible ends of the cable while working it back and forth to get it going again. Most inexpensive mowers don't have adjustments for this cable.

Happy Easter!! He arose!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
boman's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

04-01-02, 02:25 AM   #13  
have not ever encountered rusty magnets as causing a problem

Surprising to me that I may have cleaned several for no reason. Not sure if there was no spark on these, but I figured the gap may have been changed due to the rust. At any rate I have had small engines not run after being left outside for prolong periods of time (winter) until I cleaned the flywheel and coil. Heheh, little confused now. But I am not a small engine mechanic per se.

 
rajung's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 138
IA

04-01-02, 04:06 PM   #14  
I'll try to lube cable, seems like a good idea since I do go under quite a few shrubs & trees.
Snow today!
Thanks again for all the info to everyone.

 
tirekicker's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-02-02, 05:19 PM   #15  
tirekicker
[QUOTE]Originally posted by rajung


FORUM MODERATOR NOTE:
------------------------------
Your post has been deleted tirekicker. This is a forum for people to ask questions and learn. Remarks that insult the forum readers and posters will be removed. We will, however, welcome any good advice you have to give our readers. Thank you---Cheese


Last edited by cheese; 04-02-02 at 09:52 PM.
 
Search this Thread