Welcome to the DoItYourself Forums!

To post questions, help other DIYers and reduce advertising (like the one on your left), join our DIY community. It's free!

Transmission Question


boman's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

04-06-02, 05:27 AM   #1  
murray trans

Murray 12 hp commercial/industrial
Model- 3860BX92C (B might be 8)
mfg date- 1331

Son decided one day to give some of the neighborhood kids a ride in the pull - behind trailor, several of them at a time. After going up and down the street several times with all this weight, I finally decided it may not be good for the tranny, belts,etc.. ince then the gears are hard to shift and gotten worse. Sometimes it is almost impossible to get it in gear. Rounded teeth on the gears? Would appreciate any pointers on what to look for if I take the tranny apart. Maybe just need to adjust the clutch mechanism if possible?


TX

 
Sponsored Links
Sharp Advice's Avatar
Admin Emeritus

Join Date: Feb 1998
Posts: 10,440
CAL

04-06-02, 06:06 AM   #2  
Several Possibilities

Hi: Boman

If shifting is difficult, there could be binding in the clutch or gear shifting linkages. The clutch or shifter linkages may simply need adjustment.

If either or both are adjusted correctly, the clutch may be worn and in need of repair or replacement.

Depending upon when the difficult shifting problem happens, when the engine is cold, warmed up or happens all the time, may indicate what the problem is also.

Fluid levels can cause the problem also. Check the level per the manufacturers instructions. Synchronizing gears can cause difficult shifting problems.

Attachments, belts or parts that are dragging or out of adjustment can also cause or contribute to the problem.

The other resident small engine service and repair professionals and moderators, may offer alternate or additional suggestions, advice & opinions. Check back several times for additional replies.

Regards and Good Luck, Small Engine Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart.....TCB4U2B2B.....Company Enterprises.
Fast...Fair...Friendly & Highly Efficient Services....
"Accurate Power Equipment Company"
Small Engine Diagnostics Services and Repair.

 
boman's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

04-07-02, 01:59 AM   #3  
Tx for response, Tom. I just figured with my luck and with that thing pulling 400/500 lbs.up and down the block, that it may have sustain some sustantial damage. I will check all the linkages, etc., may get lucky. I know in cars, the sychronizing gears can cause problems, but I didn't know if that might apply here. Do you know what weight gear oil is used in these?

Tx

 
Fisher's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-07-02, 04:43 AM   #4  
Fisher
If it shifts OK with the bengine not running, then
I would look at the belt. It should be the
correct OEM belt for it to work like it should.
There are no adjustments to speak of on this
model, and the lube is semi-solid grease put
in at the factory, no adding to it without dis-assembly
Also sitting over the winter, any moisture in the case
might rust up the gear selector in the case. On the top of
the trans, near where the shift lever goes in, there is
1-2 allen head setscrews. Under them is a spring
and a detent ball, which "click" and hold the gear
selector in each gear setting. A few drops of gear oil in this
setscrew hole may help in shifting.
The model is 38608. If you have to work on the trans
there should be a model number on a tag on the side of it.
Fish

 
boman's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

04-07-02, 07:02 AM   #5  
warmed up or happens all the time


Just went out to look at this mower and noticed (actually, I had forgotten) that when not running there seems to be no problem with going through the gears. Does this indicate a schronization problem?

 
Fisher's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-07-02, 12:22 PM   #6  
Fisher
It means the belt is not fully disengaging[still turning]. Do you
have the correct belt on it? Or just a regular "generic" belt?
Fish

 
boman's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

04-07-02, 01:54 PM   #7  
It means the belt is not fully disengaging[still turning]. Do you

It should be the correct belt for the deck, but the pulley might be a little different than the original, can't really remember. I did change from a 12 hp to an 11 hp. Actually, now that I think about it, I think the different pullys on the different motors had different heights to them in relation to the deck pullys. Thats propably where the problem is. I just don't remember it having this problem when I first changed the motors. I will check and see if I can get the belt to quit pulling enough for it to shift. Makes sense to me! Heheh,duh!
Maybe i can go to the next lenght belt or lower the speed of the motor when I want to shift.

Tx

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,571
GA

04-07-02, 07:46 PM   #8  
It's not the deck belt that would cause the problem, but the motion drive belt. It's the one you can hardly see, going from the engine to the transaxle.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
boman's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

04-07-02, 10:18 PM   #9  
but the motion drive belt

Sorry, I knew that. Heheh, I was saying one thing when I meant the other.
Anyway< I had edited my last post when I got knocked off just gefore I finished it. The reason for the attempt at editing it was that I had gone back out to start it and see if the drive belt quit turning while it was running. It does. This time when I turned the engine off and tried to shift the gears, It doe snot want to shift. I can rock it, and it will finally shift. I did notice that the belt completely disengages from the front pulley but not the back pulley; although, the belt does stop turning. Does this indicate the problem is inside the transmission?
I also have to pull the clutch pedal back up with my foot, bit I can asjust that I think to put more pressure on the return spring. I will also check for any binding. I am wondering if I need to adjust the belt guards on the rear pulley to allow the belt to completely disengage the rear pulley as it stays completely in the belt groove. Like I said the belt does completely disengage from the front pulley.

Comments? Tx

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,571
GA

04-07-02, 10:34 PM   #10  
The belt doesn't have to come out of the groove, it just has to stop turning when you press the clutch. If it does, and it is still hard to shift, then you have binding in your shift linkage or inside the transmission. If the problem is determined to be inside the tranny, don't worry. It's not that hard if you have a little patience.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
boman's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

04-08-02, 01:27 AM   #11  
It's not that hard if you have a little patience.

It does not look like it would be that much to it. If I tear into it, I will fix it, no doubt. I do think it is internal. I tried ti shift it by hand where the shifting rod connects, same thing. It didn't start this, I remember correctly, until the hard pulling (trailer full of kids). I expect some rounded teeth or something somewhere. I will let you know what I find out if I get around to fixing it. I have another one just like it that I can use, so it may be a while. Ever get too many irons in the fire?

Tx fellas

 
cheese's Avatar
Forum Topic Moderator

Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 16,571
GA

04-08-02, 05:56 PM   #12  
Always too many irons in the fire around my place, lol. It keeps me from getting bored. When you do get into the tranny, there is a selector gear that slides back and forth on a large rod. That gear may have bad teeth, and/or that rod/shaft may need cleaning and greasing. That is the main cause I have found for hard shifting in those trannies. Try putting oil in the hole that fisher mentioned first, it might just do it.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
bwiesner's Avatar
Visiting Guest

Posts: n/a

04-09-02, 04:50 PM   #13  
bwiesner
I have seen the shifter shaft on these try to seize up due to moisture getting in and causing the shaft to rust and make them hard to shift. I would try spraying a good penetrating oil on the shaft to see if it might penetrate the rust and allow it to shift easier. Later Butch

 
dirty dan's Avatar
Member

Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 438
LA

04-12-02, 10:38 PM   #14  
boman,
I replaced a Murray transaxle last year due to a battery acid drip on the housing...
Anyway if time is a problem and you detirmine that the problem is inside the transaxle, they aren't too expensive to replace as a unit.

 
boman's Avatar
Member

Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 487

04-27-02, 03:23 AM   #15  
Hey folks. I like to keep people updated here, sorry it has been so long since the post. I just want to say I did oil the shifter where it goes in the tranny and worked it through the gears several times. I t seems to be working a lot better. Evidently the shifting tube or something had needed a little lube. The area with the set screws seemed hard to get to so I just squirted an ample supply of oil right where the shifter goes in to see if I might get lucky. Seems to have done the trick, or at least helped.

Tx ( sorry for the delay in the update)

 
Search this Thread